Last night I decided to finally start the second programmer cable for my v2 9x from FlySky.
I decided to use this adapter since I had it laying around and I found someone else using it's usb connector that they had taken out of one. This time I also wanted to make the programmer removable in case I needed to change it or use it on something else. Not that I need to since I have two other spares but this was my goal this time around. I had this one laying around so I figured I take a look inside. Interestingly enough the covers come apart very easily. I just used the small flat screwdriver on both sides where I have it here and just pried it right off. Piece of cake.
Once opened, this is what it looks like.
So after taking off the foil you see all the guts.
Here's the other side.
So my mistake here was using the knife to try to split the rubber. I managed to get things apart...but...
In the process I ended up pulling them apart trying to pull the rubber or glue, not sure what that is and ruined this part. You may want to try a the glue gun and heat that up. I think it may be easier to melt it if it's glue. Needless to say these plugs are very easy to break. So be gently. Even though I was I still managed to ruin this one.
So what do you do in the middle of the night if you don't have any other green female usb adapters...well I also have a bunch of these other gray adapters so I used one that I have two of. Unfortunatly getting through the rubber coating is a bigger pain in the butt than the green one, but since the plug was only using two wires it was also easier to take apart without ruining it. Almost did, but the first one gave me the experience of what not to do on the second one.
Finally, here's the female connector on the programmer. I also lined up the wires just like on my first version and lined them up that way.
Make sure you plug this into the programmer so you get the correct cable going to the right pin because you actually have to flip this over to solder it. It's just where the solder was on these pins. If at this point you're not sure what to do, take a look a my V1 cable at the bottom of the page. But you should be coming from there already.
Finally, the wires soldered to the usb female connector. At this point don't forget to check your connections with a voltmeter/ohmmeter to make sure it's all good before adding glue and heat shrink.
Two female connectors. The top one is the one where you plug your computer to and the bottom is for the programmer. This all stays nicely tucked inside the radio.
I like using this cable because it uses standard usb cables you can find anywhere so no matter where you go, you should have no problem connecting to your computer.
I added a bit of hot glue to the wires on both sides so they won't move. Just a tiny bit. I didn't put any on the soldered pins. The top adapter is what I used for this plug. I just took one of those apart. I had two of the same so I still have my adapters which I hardly used anyway. The heat shrink was too short so I cut a longer piece.
Here's the cable finally heatshrinked and ready to go. Now I just have to solder the transmitter to the programmer cable and it will all be ready to go.
USB 2 for stuff like this is great. USB 3 will be a nightmare since those have more wires if it comes to that for stuff like this. Just don't ask me if it works. I'm pretty sure it will but I still haven't done the transmitter side.
Getting ready to install the programmer.
Making my template for the side connector.
This is the same place I put it on my first one. It worked out great. Doesn't get in the way and I'm also right handed so I can do this one handed with the transmitter standing or laying on the table.
I had shortened the wires so it was a bit harder to get this to fit, so try to leave yourself a bit more wire from the white connector. This should allow a bit more flexibility. No biggie though. I got a nice clean fit this time. I used a bit of hot glue on the cable under the programmer to hold that down. The programmer just sits on the top with nothing since both connectors hold it in place. So far I like the way it came out. Works just as well as my first one that I soldered directly to the programmer. Soldering to the plug was easier though.
Finally installed on the side of the case.
You can probably just heat shrink the whole programmer and make it look even neater. I don't have anything that big, just large enough for the plug which is what I did.
It's hard to get a nice square hole but it's hardly noticeable and the usb cable fits perfectly and worked great without things outside the transmitter other than the cable. I have one of those harborfreight dremel kits with a bunch of adapters and they come in very handy for stuff like this.
This is all you see from this mod. Not much actually, just the two screws and the little hole on the side. What looks like a scratch is the plastic covering which I don't take off until they come off. keeps the scratches off for a while.
The twins. The FlySky 9x V1 on the right and V2 on the left. Even with the HK lcd on all the time, I have had no problems with either using the original firmware. The lcd mod is only needed if you want to control it with the er9x software which I don't even use yet. I use a lipo and things have been fine. I always just take care not to plug the battery the wrong way and have had no problems. Just charge it back when the voltage gets to 9 volts.
Everything is left stock. I just added the programmers and lcds. The V1 has a buzzer switch but I may just use the new firmware on the new one so I may not need that switch. Now I just have to cross my fingers and hope it works. Still have to download the program and see how it goes. I got the green blank screen after turning it on. I found out later one of my wires came off so I had to resolder it and then everything worked like it was supposed to. So both are working now. Unfortunately eepe didn't let me back up the original eeprom for whatever reason. So now I have one with the er9x and the v1 with the original firmware. I was able to use the v1 eeprom on my v2 though so at least I have that. I like to keep them for testing. Oh by the way the HK LCD doesn't work as is with the er9x firmware, so now I have to do that mod to make it work. It's been a while since I installed these and they have been working great without any problems. I didn't use the er9x, the original firmware has been fine.