Some of these photos were taken with flash and some without. This one comes closest to the actual color of the fabric.
Lapped side zipper; below the waist it's inserted only into the lining. The main fabric has a placket that just lays on top, with no fastenings; it hangs closed when worn. A snap helps keep the lap flat against the high waist seam.
Inside of the outer skirt placket: French seam to the left (below the placket) and rolled edges to the right (placket opening). There's a small bar tack at the end of the placket. The underlap side of the placket is machine-stitched and the overlap side is hand slipstitched.
First muslin of the bodice, with excess pinned out at front neck, and back neckline raised
Second muslin of the bodice, made from Burda "tracing kit"
Bodice with alterations: red highlights are subtractions; green are additions; and yellow are darts.
1. Width was added to bodice back, but taken out again at the waist by a dart, so the waist circumference would not be increased.
2. The back neckline was drastically raised and re-trued (the jog is due to the 1" width addition lower down).
3. Front and back armhole depth were shortened -- note this was done just below the matchpoints for attaching the back bow, so it didn't affect them.
4. The front neckline was dropped; the cut-off piece is shown above it.
5. I did an FBA, adding an underarm dart; the yellow dart appears lower than some of the added fullness, because I later shifted the front darts downward.
5. A wedge was taken out of the front neckline and rotated into the underarm dart. (The fullness may have been an intentional part of the original design, allowing the front neckline to be unusually high without binding.)
6. After shortening the front "waist" dart, I reshaped it to have an S-curve.
Bodice facings drafted on Kwik-Trace cloth (looks like web with red dots)
Wedges (highlighted in red) drawn on skirt front for drafting the lining skirt, which will have half the hem circumference. The skirt pattern was then traced, pivoting these wedges out (so the lining skirt consists of only the non-highlighted areas, in effect pivoted together, and with the hem and waist curves re-trued). The same thing was done with the back skirt pattern piece.
Skirt lining piece laid on top of original skirt piece. Upper edge circumference is the same but hem circumference is reduced by half.