The traditional gear line up in the garage
Colin and Cheyne humping gear.
A Bomber hook next to a copperhead
Bomber cam, useless copperhead
Middle Cathedral and the Merced
a hand placed beak and copperhead
Bomber nut, ugly copperheads.
Love those cam hooks!
A Bomber nut.
another hand placed beak.
a cam hook avoiding a copperhead.
Indian Paintbrush at the base of El Cap.
reflections in the Merced
The East Buttress if El Cap.
Water for the route.
Looking up from the base.
Storing my stuff away from the bears.
not far enough apparently.
A stuff sac that smelled of food.
and ripped of the collar of my ledge bag
Starting the first pitch
Love that meat hook!
Bears can't get this!
Hauling a bit of gear up to the top of the first pitch.
I couldn't reach the copperhead with a biner...
You can just see my bags on top of the first pitch.
It's hard not to be happy when you're up on the first pitch of an El Cap route and the weather is looking good far into the future!
Organizing my bags on top of the first pitch.
Ah, so many choices!
This is pretty ugly and useless.
I though the beginning of the 2nd pitch was a bit spicy!
Looking up the start of the 2nd pitch, I thought it was a bit difficult.
On top of the second pitch.
Dumb place to place a pin if you ever wanted to remove it but what's up with that biner?
Waking up on the wall, first morning.
The early morning view from my portaledge.
hmmm... a copperhead of unknown quality or a cam rated to about a gazillion pounds....
I love that tree reflection.
Beautiful El Cap Flora
The crux of the 4th pitch, it gets easier right after the next two moves.
The green rope is my lead rope that I'll soon be jugging on, the black rope is my haul line that I'm rapping on and will soon have the bags hang on it.
Two of the Koreans on The Zoidac (out of five)!
The Koreans Hauling
My kit, nicely arranged.
Just led the A3r hook pitch and was having lunch.
The start of the 5th pitch, A3r.
loose rock left of the route
Starting the 6th pitch.
Love those bomber cams!
The 5.8 corner is just up and right of me.
You can climb right by this stuff if you don't take the time to notice it.
The Lightning Bolt Roofs, center right and the 9 O'clock Roof, top left.
The 5.8 corner. I did it mostly free.
El Cap's Art.
My typical solo anchor
a big wall ledge tightening tip.
One of the reasons I climb El Cap.
Early morning light on El Cap.
Looking up at the Lightning Bolt Roof from my portaledge.
The Koreans on Zodiac
Metolius Haul bags and packs are sweet!
Starting the Lightning Bolt Roofs pitch.
Half in cams like this can be good, you have to watch them though, I had two pop on me.
Notice that the flake is cracked almost all the way around...
This was a cool spot.
The Koreans and water falling off the top of the Zodiac.
I was trying to get a photo of the bags but I was slowly spinning around. The Koreans on the Zodiac were laughing at me and cheering!
Why are pigs in space fun?
Looking up along the first part of the Lightning Bolt Roof pitch.
a cliffhanger in a drilled hole
a cliffhanger over a flake
10 or 12 hooks moves directly off the anchor....
On the 9 O'clock Roof pitch
The 9 O'clock Roof pitch
The foolproof way to safety ascenders on a severe traverse.
I was pulling a sling out of a tangle and a biner had flew out and nailed me in the lip. I was taking photos of myself to see how bad it was.
Typical morning ledge scene.
I'm standing on my ledge removing the bolt in the previous photo. It was sort up in my haul bag mess.
Removing a useless bolt
It was good and solid bolt but there were already five 3/8" bolts at the anchor.
Me on the left and the Koreans on the right in our own little worlds.
JB, Jim Bridwell on the first ascent team
Someone had flattened the bolt hanger making it useless and since it was a 1/4" I took it out.
a Fifi hook holding my tag bag
The Koreans over on the Zodiac.
This anchor had all sorts of bolts in awkward places and I wanted to clean it up but I didn't have the time.
El Cap's Rock Art
More El Cap Rock Art
My junk show. Since the bags never touched the rock I didn't bother taking the time to put everything away.
This section would have been A4 if it hadn't been for the fixed heads. Fixed head destroy the adventure of a route. I didn't have a butterknife to remove them, and, to tell you the truth, I'm not that brave.
El Cap's shadow
beginning of the 4th day.
Top of p10
Typical portaledge scene.
Big Wall Bivy Cluster.
Yup, that's what it is.
My bivy at the top of pitch 10
Home away from home.
Looking down from exactly the same position as the previous photo.
A copperhead where a copperhead should be placed.
A copperhead where a one shouldn't be placed.
Rapping down to the previous anchor.
El Cap towers, Texas Flake and just barely, Boot Flake.
Starting pitch 12
2 to 1 hauling system.
The full moon rising
One of the best cups of coffee I've ever had!
I didn't have any new ideas for self portraits this time.
The A3r section, just left of that rust colored rock, was one of the scariest parts of the climb for me.
Solo belay anchor with slippery knot and tag bag ready to go.
Starting the 13th pitch.
A beak placed just above a deadhead.
Hand placed and Bombproof!
Hauling up my tag bag.
I whaled on this beak when I was placing it but it fell right out when I cleaned it.
Morning of the last day on the wall.
I'll be over there in the fall of '11.
The last bivy.
This is unfortunate.
The Anchor on top.
Cleaning the last pitch.
Hauling the last pitch.
Totally safety to the left, death to the right. I clipped into that anchor every time I moved right of the tree.
Gear I stripped off of the route.
Webbing and cord I cut off of the route.
Can't think of a more beautiful spot!
The Blend and the route.
My porters, Cheyne and Greg
Greg and Cheyne
Ah, the pause that refreshes!
Calm, Cool, Collected!