Modelling how Myst might look in glued lapstrake
Our canoe strongback - to be modified for use in building Myst
First step - add two feet to each end
Added wheels for ease in moving and eyebolts to facilitate leveling
Left and right station moulds are cut out and trimmed to match
All mould halves joined together - ready for mounting on the strongback
Turns out a 5.5 foot station mould can apply a lot of torque. Added wings to strongback for lateral support.
Used a transit to level the strongback to within 1/16 inch over 20 feet
Moulds are attached to supports using lawn timber screws and fender washers through oversize holes to facilitate truing up. Additional screws or epoxy fillets will be added when complete.
Initial set up complete. Must now turn our attention back to refinishing the Whaler console on the left; fishing season is rapidly approaching.
Next step - a trip to the coast for boat lumber?
Gluing up the inner stem - three layers, six pieces
Edge-gluing the inner keel
Completed inner stem with parts for outer stem
Using inner stem as form for gluing up outer stem
Gluing up outer stem.
Tight bend in riser requires 1/2 inch strips to be planed down to 3/8 between forms 9 and 10. Will need to add another strip (or two) in this area.
Riser and sheer laminates at stem. Spanish windlass holds sheer clamp together at stem.
Can't afford 80 clamps. Using screws instead.
Extra laminations at stern to compensate for tapered strips at the tight curve.
Full set of riser and sheer clamp laminations - time to start fairing.
Added 1/8 inch to mould 2 and 1/4 inch to mould 1 so that thinner planks will fair out to stem
Added extra lamination to riser (and to sheer clamp) forward of mould 3 so that thinner planking will fair out to stem.
Continuing to fair moulds, risers and clamps
Found that an old draw knife did the best job on removing a lot of material quickly.
Used the Tom Hill approach, as modified by Oughtred, to plane the bevel on the inner keel.
Time to start thinking about transom material.
Hondo Mahogany was what the local hardwood shop had available.
Followed Oughtred's detailed approach to lining off.
First attempt. Ropes define sheer-strake; twine all others.
Rotating picture helps visualize
Getting close to final form
Scarfed together a bunch of cedar strips from our canoe-building days to refine the lining off process.
Lining off complete - settled on eleven strakes. Time to begin planking.
First - and still the best - scarf joint
Scarf joint glued up
Garboard getting hot water treatment on moulds
Garboard still getting hot water treatment on the bench - weighted to force the bend
Garboards installed - a real milestone
First attempt at cutting gains
Gain at transom - half in garboard, other half will be in broadstrake
Matching gain in broadstrake - cutting on bench is easier
Broadstrakes glue up
Time to plane garboards down to inner keel - while still easy to reach
Started making patterns using door skins
Then switched to making patterns from cedar strips hot-glued together
Found that I need more cross bracing to hold the shape
Cedar strip patterns seem to work well - plank fits
Started drilling holes in moulds to aid in clamping - helps a lot.
Using Hydrotek (heavier, stiffer, more durable?) on lower strakes and Okoume above. Will be interesting to see how they compare.
Benefit of narrow planks - they lay on land above with no need to plane mould to accommodate plank as opposed to strips
Pattern with much more cross-bracing than earlier attempts - holds shape more effectively
Even with narrow planks, will need to hollow plank a little to follow the curve of the transom
Plank hollowed out to follow curve of transom
With the hollow, the planks are a little thin at the transom. I've faired in an extra laminate on the top plank in this picture to take care of this - will be necessary for the four planks at the turn of the bilge.
Almost half way - now switching from Hydrotek to Joubert Okoume
Getting close - pattern for sheerstrake made
Sheerstrakes with gains - can almost taste it now
Setback - a delamination in Joubert Okoume Lloyds of London certified plywood - showed up when about to glue up. Ended up filling it with epoxy and proceeding.
The Whiskey Plank!
Dry-fitting the outer stem and outer keel
Payback time for not using clamps - lots of screw holes to fill.
Cabinet scraper works pretty wel
First two coats of epoxy - using white tint to provide a base coat for paint
Shaping the outer stem on the bench. Finishing it on the bench would turn out to be a bad idea.
Close to final form
Inner stem was messed up from fairing process. Decided to cut a uniform piece out to make it easier to fill later
Outer Stem glued up
With outer keel applied, noticed that cutwater was not quite plumb. Not enough to be problematic, but it was driving me nuts - so . . .
I planed the edge back and applied another "lamination" to the outer stem - then planed this one plumb.
Used a plumb line to make sure I got it right this time.
Made up a blank for the skeg from 8/4 CVG Doug Fir.
Skeg taking shape.
Had a party in PBurg. With all the muscle power in attendance, decided to flip. No finesse - just muscled it over to the workbench, then down to the lowered strongback.
Left a few moulds and the sheer clamps and risers in to preserve the shape.