Thanks Thomas, it was a great day sailing Gualala
Thomas on the Helm
Got sailing-lesson from Thomas
Going before the wind
Lugsail on luv-side of mast
Lugsail on leeside of mast
Sailing home before the wind (with daggerboard lifted)
Wooden Moby Dick: "There she blows...."
Changed daggerboard-cover: Glued-on miniwhale. Easier to lift tight-fitted daggerboard-cover.
Note: whale is blowing
Firerwood-Fishing on the Ach`n See
Balanced Lug: Works great
Gualala first time in action
Contact; Gualala launched
Christening Gualala with Spanish Cava
Gualala ready for launching
Hay más tiempo que vida!
Rudder completed. Some lines still missing
Note mast-detail: Stainless steel mast-traveller with leather-sheeting will haul-up lugsail
Painting/varnishing almost completed. Paint below waterline still missing
White part on transom: Will protect transom in case that motor will be used
Movable mast-step completed
Bottom painted. Some final touches still to be made
Varnishing in progress
Capitan Moises doing some pre-water-testing
External hull sanding/cleaning finished. Masking tape before placing last Epoxy fillets
Outboard-bracket-adaptor at transom
Checking rudder. Need to go between outboard-adaptor-wedges and have to allow sufficient rudder-angle
Rudder-parts including tiller extension
Hull-oiling finished inside
Weight as above: 44 kg (94 lb)
Can´t wait to oil and finish Spike #2
Spike #2 prepared for take-off
Captain Moses with Bruce in cockpit
Preparing some cleats for Spike #2 (Using Iain Oughtred´s excellent Book: Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual)
Sanding, sanding.... needs lot of cleaning/sanding-work before oiling
Daggerboard cap ok!
Daggerboard ok, all ok Sir!
Captain Moses lowering daggerboard
Fairleads made in Austria. Made of Slavonian Oak
Oak-scrap shaped to live on as fairlead
Gluing cover for daggerboard-slot (for rowing and motoring)
Gluing slot-device for daggerboard-cover
Gluing wood: Last peace on this boat.
Note lines/shape of this IO-boat: Classic flat bottom Skiff!
Sanding/finishing/varnishing still to be done
Daggerboard case will receive slot-device for cover-peace
Upper part (10 mm ash)
Lower part (10 mm ply) of slot-peace where daggerboard-case-cover will be "hooked into"
Gluing knees onto thwart
Daggerboard case finished (caps now glued onto rails, fwd spacer will be cut at cap-level after gluing)
Checking fit of caps
Cut caps to lenght
Cut sides to level of rails
Clamps all over the place. Major internal structure glued (thwarts, daggerboard-case, side-benches; all in one go). Now finishing/sanding/painting work ahead
Quality control with some glasses of wine by friends and neighbours before gluing internal structural elements
Sculling-hole placed and starting to finish transom and corners
Risers glued to aft flotation-chamber
Risers fixed and glued. Hull cleaned/sanded. Still more cleaning/sanding to be done
Taping to avoid epoxy-mess
Moses checking fit of movable mast-step
Checking fit of side-benches
Thwart placed temporarily onto starboard riser
Thwart-seat fitted above daggerboard case
Note on frame #4: Support for side-benches
Aft buyancy seat. Note supports for riser and side-benches
Thwart prepared to fit between additional frames. Thwart sits slightly backwards to fit lugsail
Moses checking hull before we add internal parts already prepared
Nothing glued yet internally. Will Epoxy all at hull first to have easier access for sanding nd cleaning lower part of hull
Measuring critical location of thwart for my lugsail-option. This will govern mast-location. Inclination of mast is flexible in my boat as mast-foot will be movable in fwd-aft position.
Temporary placed risers
Transom reinforced for 2,3 hp Honda Outboard
Stemhead just finished but breasthook and final sanding still missing
From book: Pete Culler "On wooden boats" (Excellent Book!)
Transom reinforced as I intend to use boat aso with small outboard. Inside reinforcement: 6 mm ply. Outside: see peace placed in bottom just to take the picture. This peace will be glued onto outside part of transom
Checking transom reinforcement to get correct angle and level for 2.3 Honda outboard
Outboard needs to be have wedged transom plate to get shaft vertical. Long-shaft version of Honda 2.3 4-stroke outboard (Type BF 2.3 D, long shaft)
Additional frame will fwd of thwart (change due to lug-sail)
Added one frame between Stat. 1 and 2 to reinforce thwart-support (thwart will be moved back to allow for lug-sail and therefore this additional frames)
Cutting and joining breasthook
Still not glued-up. Picture shows how mast-step will slide between two rails. All done from scap-ply
Aft-position of maststep
Turnbuckle extended: Front-position of maststep
This is location of mast-step at designed location
Changed Idea and wil use wooden parts for eyes to safe weight
Movable mast-step. Turnbuckle (to be fixed on frame #2) will allow change of mast-step-position fwd and aft. Seems to look very strong "heavy metal". I am thinking to change this for a more lighter variant
This will be the block (made up of 4 layers of ply-scap 8mm, 10 mm, 10 mm and 5 mm = total 33 mm for mast-step-depth). Mast will be stepped in hole still to be cut out in center of this block after epoxying. Block will movable forward and aft using stainless-steel-turnbuckle and guide-rails made of ply (not yet shown).
Checking how thwart will fit int boat. Still to be finished/planed
Cutting mast-hole in thwart
Marking nast-hole in thwart using my fathers good old woodworkers-compass
Will use stone-pine for thwart (light, soft but strong). Still to be planed, finished.
Cardboard-template for thwart. Measures for lug-rig!
Clritical measure using cardboard-template for thwart: Distance from Station 1 to aft of mast-hole will define rake of mast. Note: This is a change to the original design as I will opt for lug-rig where mast-step is more to the aft compared with sprit-rig/chesapeake-rig
Cardboard-template for thwart
Thinking about movable mast-step for lug-rig. Want to trim my boat this time by changing rake of mast. Pre-design is not yet that what will be built
Cleaning-out epoxy-mess. My fathers chisels and my hands need long hours to do this work.
Masking tape to avoid part of the epoxy-mess
Frames and daggeboard front-plate ready to be glued
Building frame used now as working-platform
Spike shows her elegant lines (according to my taste)
Yellow masking-tapes will be removed. They help to avoid/clean-up epoxy-mess
Turn-around needs a small celebration with Veltliner from Austria
And now turn-around Spike #2
Moses sanding stem
Moses indicating level of DWL
Outsinde-work finished except fillets, ganwales and sanding/painting. Will mark DWL tomorrow, before turning over my boat. (I will now use level-position of building-frame-topsides running parallel to DWL)
Belt-sander for final trim of bottom-ply. Good tool, but be alert not to sand into garboard!
Electric-planer trims bottom-overhang. Warning: be careful with planer, it is easy to cut into garboard! For final-trim use hand-planer and/or sander
Moses trimming skeg using japanese-saw
Moses trimming stem using japanese-saw
Fix skeg with some clamps for while gluing with epoxy
Bilge keels glued
Gluing: Stem, keel, bilge-keels and skeg in one go
Gluing bottom. Holding bottom down using clamps, ropes and wedges
Fwd part of bottom ready to be glued. Stem placed temporarily only to see how things will go together
Shaping stem: This time "classic-style". ("What makes classics real" Pete Culler)
Hanging planks finished
Belt-Sander cuts-in gain
Cutting gain using belt-sander. Tradition meets todays technology....
Clamps and rope to stabilize starboard garboard-plank near stem
Difficult part (bending chines) done. Note: Chine needs to be lowered to station-4 mould. Will do it with some small scap and screws
This time I used scews to fix chine on transom temporarily
Bending-down chines. Wetting helps a little. Rick thanks for advice!
Marking transom (larch)