Welcome to Makawao. That's pronounced Mah kah Wow, and it's Maui's cowboy town, or as we say in Hawaii, paniolo country.
The wide open spaces as you approach Makawao feel a little like Maui, a little like the Wild West.
This is the reason they call this part of Maui Upcountry. It keeps rising to the 10,000-foot top of Haleakala, Maui's towering dormant volcano.
One popular sport is cruising down Haleakala on bicycles. The bicycles get trucked up, so it's all downhill.
Words don't add much to this view of Upcountry.
Makawao's steep main street, still lined with historic buildings, now housing everything from steak houses to yoga studios.
The old buildings still give the town its Western flavor.
We had to include this Makawao restaurant sign: Come In and Eat or We'll Both Starve!
Another view of the homegrown boutiques and galleries in downtown Makawao.
There's even a glassblowing studio here.
Chris Lowry of Hot Island Glass takes a torch to an already glowing glass vase.
Lowry's partner, Chris Richards turns the glass--carefully--as Lowry applies some finishing touches. One slip will ruin the vase.
That's co-owner Olivia Coletti behind the counter of Makawao Fresh Bistro, which specializes in locally sourced food.
Patti Short, wearing the kind of gear she sells at Makawao's Aloha Cowboy boutique.
Looking for a pair of fancy boots, cowgirl? There are plenty here.
Louis Cambra, with daughter Jerni and friend Randy Tavares, relax by his corral. Just a few minutes from downtown Makawao, he breaks horses in his backyard.
Cambra shows off the 100-year-old spurs worn by his grandfather, foreman of Grove Ranch.
Perhaps the best known of all Makawao businesses is Komoda Bakery, founded in 1916 and still owned and operated by the same family. The doughnuts are legendary.
Early in the morning, Komoda's cakes are ready for the display case.
Two of founder Takezo Komoda's five sons—Danny, 78, and Izuo, 80--still work at the Komoda Bakery. Izuo is credited with the recipes that made the bakery famous.
Most of these Komoda treats will sell out by mid-morning. There's often a line when the bakery opens at 7 a.m.
Anuhea Farms is famous for its protea, but when flowers are not in season, it relies on another crop altogether, asparagus.
Workers smile as they wash, grade and pack Anuhea asparagus, to be shipped all over the state.
The workers wear trash bags to keep off the wet, without being too warm. "Filipino raincoats," joked one.
Lionel and Lorraine Amoral, both descendants of Portuguese immigrants, show off their homemade Portuguese sausage.
The Portuguese immigrants brought their Catholic traditions with them, still evident in the recently restored St. Joseph Church.
A dirt road and tidy fences lead up to Pi‘iholo Ranch, just above Makawao town.
Pi‘iholo owner, Peter Baldwin, has been elected to Hawaii's Paniolo Hall of Fame.
Baldwin is the fifth-generation descendent of missionaries, but he looks most comfortable in the saddle.
Piiholo boasts a team roping rink where two cowboys try their luck in lassoing Horned Corriente steers.
At 73, Baldwin is still a champion roper, competing in rodeos across the Mainland.
The trick is for one rider to rope the head, slowing down the steer, so the other can rope the back legs.
Roping is not just for cowboys. Miss Rodeo Hawaii, Ashley Borsum, and Tamalyn Baldwin, wait their turn.
Ashley Borsum races a steer out of the starting gate, her lasso ready.
Lots of horses means lots of work for veternarians. Here Dr. Toni Ilgen bandages a horse named Maka, while his wife, Dr. Kathryn Rice, hidden behind Maka, keeps the horse from kicking.
Makawao is both a cowboy and an artistic town. This old mansion is now the home of the Hui Noeau Art Center.
Maui artists can use the Hui Noeau studios for a nominal fee. Here Tina Ecklar burnishes a pot on the lanai.
There are horses everywhere in Makawao. These polo ponies board in a paddock at the art center.
Haleakala looms over Makawao. It's all uphill from here.
That's how you say Stop in cowboy country.