This cover will fit a vintage Featherweight sewing machine. Or a modern toaster. Start with a fat quarter and a 4.5" WOF (width of fabric). For a larger machine, measure around the machine at the widest point, divide in half and add 3 inches for your width measurement. Measure from the bottom, up over the top and down the back for your height. You may add 1/2" to this, For a small machine like the FW, a fat quarter is just a bit too short, so adding a 4.5" strip at the bottom will give you a nice, 2 inch lined border on the bottom. Start by stitching a 1/4" seam along one long side of the WOF strip; cut the strip in half, so the pieces are 20-22" long.
Detail of edge stitching.
Turn stitched edges under and press wrong sides together along the stitched line on the WOF strip. Then place (unstitched) right sides to wrong side of the fat quarter along the longest side (it should be about 20-21 inches after being squared up). Stitch a quarter inch seam on both sides. Trim excess. See following photos for details.
Stitching border to FQ. Face right side of border to wrong side of fabric fq.
Set the seams.
It looks wrong, but it's right.
Trim border and square up.
Now bring that folded edge up over the seam and press.
Make sure everything matches up before stitching the border down.
Use a narrow seam to top-stitch the border in place.
Optional pockets: Cut two 4.5" strips: one to show, and one for the lining. Decide how wide you want your pockets to be and cut your strips that size. Stitch down one side on all pieces, as you will be folding this in, like you did on the lining of the border. You will need two top pieces and two lining pieces for two pockets. Or, you can skip the pockets all together.
Stitch on all sides, but leave a big enough opening to be able to turn it RSO. Clip the corners, too.
Turn right sides out and press. The previously stitched fabric turns under so much easier this way.
Fold the pocket in half, and line it up with a fold down the middle of the cover. Be sure that the opening between the lining and the top of the pocket is on the bottom. We will sew it closed in a minute.
Do the same on both pockets., making sure the openings are facing the borders.
I let my pockets rest on the borders.
Stitch around all 3 sides, catching the opening at the bottom. Leave the top open!
Repeat on the other side.
Time for those French seams. Put wrong sides together and make a quarter inch seam on both sides. Be sure to match the border seams.
Trim the seams to 1/8 inch.
Turn Wrong side out.
Press both sides and along the top. You want a nice crease that you can see.
Match those border seams again. Right sides together this time.
Stitch a quarter inch seam on both sides.
Turn right side out and check for fit. And look at those dog ears pointing up. (And if they don't bother you, then skip the next step.)
Turn inside out again.
Remember that crease we made across the top? Line the side seam up with it and pin in place.
Line up a 45 degree angle on one of the point sides. Even though this is marked at 7 inches wide, I later adjusted that to 5 1/4 inches wide. Mark with pencil, chalk or soap. Repeat on the other side.
Stitch on your marked line. This is called 'boxing' the corners, and is a common technique when making bags.
Your finished sewing machine cover.