The temporary electric pole with building permit on display.
Here you can see the gravel I laid at the footing excavation bottoms. This made it much easier to walk after rains, and allowed leveling the bottom.
A large amount went into the pier holes. Excavation went further down here to remove poor soil, and the holes were compacted with gravel fill.
The large pile left from excavation. I'll have to sort through this eventually when backfilling the foundation walls and filling in some low spots in the backyard.
The pile again. Note the old CMU debris mixed in.
A shot from atop of the giant pile.
One of the pier holes.
One of the PVC stubs I used to establish corners. Cheaper than steel rods ;)
The hoist I built for lowering & raising the compactor.
I used a cheap wratcheting device tied to the peak of the structure.
Inside the hoist. The walls are held together with clamps.
The rebar was delivered in a bundle of 20' pieces.
The rebar bender in action. Piece of OSB with a bolt through it.
The front bump out formed up with rebar in place. Note the rebar runs diagonally from inner side to outer side for all parallel runs.
Right side forms. There is insufficient bracing (stakes) along the right side of the forms. It bulged quite a bit on this side during the pour.
Here you can see the central pier forms in place. A string ran down their centerline, which I measured off from to establish position.
Touching up the footing after the pour.
Pops and me
Katie and me
The OSB strapping came off easily with the help of a crowbar.
Just removed OSB strapping. They left slight impressions on the top of the footing, but nothing a little mortar would care about.
dad checking out the block
gap in the front for moving the wheelbarrow in & out. filled this in last.
“super thoroseal” cementitious waterproofing
waterproofing at the corner, meeting the footer
top of foundation wall. waterproofing only below grade. sill plate hangs by 2“ to top off external rigid foam insulation (to be installed later)
end of first day of framing. about half the joists cut & ready to be laid out. precut blocks on the sill plate.
all lumber is southern pine #1, only the best.
precut blocks on the sill, band joists at the footer ready to be cut tomorrow, and (3) 2x12 built-up girder in place.
the girder is a bit crooked - i'll adjust it when toenailing the joists to it.
floor joists going up
my framing hammer made that hole while installing this small piece of floor sheathing. 3/4“ advantech. i'm still amazed it happened.
this stuff is really strong, so i dunno why that happened. i think i was being too aggressive with it.
4“ drain pipe adjacent to footer
drain pipe buried in gravel
the pipe & gravel is wrapped in a sediment filter fabric to prevent clogs.
2“ rigid foam insulation going up. tacked with adhesive to wall, pinned with weights at bottom and scraps to hold the tops.
more gravel goes against the bottom of the wall, outside the insulation
this gravel is then covered with more filter fabric before backfilling.
i had an audience while backfilling.
a bunch of old bricks from a patio i discovered just beneath the surface in the front. i salvaged them before bringing in fill.
the big boy - same one i used to excavate, made quick work of moving all that backfill.
and it's little brother - this was handy for backfilling on the left side, which was very close to the neighbor's house.
both bobcats hanging out in the backyard.
fill dirt in the front
plates are on the deck. looks extremely funky from the outside. neighbors must think im slow. note the plates hang 2“ off the deck to accomodate 2” of rigid foam insulation outboard of the band joist. that foam will go in once the walls are up.
my temporary front step. the header pieces are stacked on the deck.
the plates on deck. i walked through my house for the first time! very cool.
roof in progress
rafter setting jig
put a nail in the bottom of the plumb cut
and that nail hooks behind the jig..
..holding the rafter in place for nailing
the tail end fits snug to the plate for a straight fascia
metal strap ties between rafters and ceiling joists. blocking between rafters with ventilation holes
soffit blocks (lookouts) with ventilation holes
rear barge rafters up
fascia is gonna be pretty straight
view looking across the rear gable wall, showing the soffit ventilation holes
starting to look like a house
you can get a sense of the depth of the soffits at this angle
roof sheathing begins
a sheet heading out to the roof
a stack of sheets on standby to use as the roof is closed up
tar paper's up. last few gable studs are in, too.
shingles going up
lots of shingles up there.. lots more to go.
attic space, sans temporary ridge bracing. plenty o space.
north side shingles done
12 hours to shingle one side. lookin goood.
just about to install the ridge vent.
you can see the plumbing vent with a hammer resting on it
north & east walls fully sheathed in anticipation of NE winds from the blizzard of '10!
left a small gap at the top left there. lazy i guess
left wall's straight too. note the pile of debris in the dining room ;)
first window in place
cut out the sheathing..
then attach flashing. note the sill pan made of protecto wrap
sill pan has a lip to keep water outside
window about to go in
a felt apron is stapled along its top edge just below the window sill. then the first piece of the sill pan is placed.
the lip of the pan is folded onto itself at the inside corner, to maintain the lip upward along the jamb.
next a small circular piece is placed onto the outside of the sill edge.
it's folded around the bend, which gets a little wrinkly but does the job.
this waterproofs the vertex of the first pan piece.
the final piece of the pan is designed to overlap both the first two pieces.
this forms a watertight sill pan. lower material cost than a commercial pan, but it takes some time to cut and place.
finally, use a j-roller to ensure quality adhesion throughout.
these are the felt jambs ready to go in.
the jamb flashing serves to direct incidental water down to the sill pan.
the small window on the right is frosted glass, it brings natural light into the master bath shower.
the small window brings natural light into the second bath. the large awning window gives ventilation but doesn't protrude far into the future walkway along the side of the house.
front windows fully flashed.
these windows are tight together and the flashings overlap. i could have used one large apron for all three if i had foreseen it.
all windows in and open.
the large awning on the left is above the kitchen sink.
another shot with the windows closed.
i used canned foam to fill the gaps at the gable peaks. wasps were using it as a door.
i dug out around the walls so i can apply parging below grade. SAF (powerbond) was applied to serve as an air seal above and below the sill plate.
i found the powerbond to be much more sticky than protectowrap. good for durability, but its more difficult to apply well.
the hardware cloth i ordered to use as lath doesn't want to lay flat.
as you can see it's rather wavy. hopefully i can get it to lay flat, as a planned 1/8" thick parging won't smooth that out much.
the small metal discs are called roofing plates. i believe they're used for attaching epdm rolls for 'rubber roofs'.. they are low-profile and have a large surface area, which helps the screws hold down the lath.
rear wall parged
it's real tough after just one day of curing
the coating is quikwall surface bond cement with their acrylic admix. it's a tough fibered mix, and the acrylic makes it waterproof. a little costly, but very durable.
lots of screws to keep the mesh joint flat. the blue heads are tapcons, the rest are just screwed into the foam
the mesh was screwed flat except at the bottom below grade
the door jamb extensions were cut, primed, and preassembled
i used 3" deck screws, predrilled. note the chunky oil primer. me = no painter
replaced some 2x4 studs with 2x3 staggered studs between the bathroom & living room
my mini fridge keepin it cool
more staggered studs between master bath & hallway
woodford model 30 sillcocks. pvc trim atop pt block, will be surrounded with j-channel. white pvc flashing below, black butyl saf above
arlington recessed horizontal exterior receptacle with integral j-channel & box
CH meter socket w/ integrated panel. pvc trimmed sleeve for future conduit into crawl. the 3" pvc sleeve was melted to the pvc trim.
6" intake & exhaust hoods, galvanized metal. i'll probably paint them white sooner or later.
hvac sleeve/thimble and shutoff. the sleeve is 3" pvc pipe melted to pvc trim with pt block behind. this assembly will be surrounded by j-channel.
dryer vent trim piece w/ integral j-channel.
ledger installed under side door. it's furred from the band joist with 1" blocking behind bolts, with 1" foam in spaces between. this sets the ledger face in plane with the 1/2" sheathing covering the 2" foam outside the rest of the band joist. butyl saf from above. you can also see the bottom edge of the metal sill pan below the door.
top of the side door with jamb extension installed and primed.
the 6" intake port was an exhaust hood. i removed the flapper and inserted a circle of galvanized 1/4" mesh
the exhaust port with flapper. currently have a hose going through it :P
working alone, i installed felt in upper courses in small sections
soffit panels in, rear flood set in place (not powered yet)
j-channel around the vents
butyl tape sealed the side flanges to the felt wrb
window trim going up
siding panels going up
siding panel runs under the window apron, which collects water from the window face and sill pan
the apron is cut flush with the hem of that panel, so the next panel can lock to it. water drains out of the wall.
slowly but surely..
taped joints; felt going up
master bath, lav on left, toilet on right. water supply is pex. i used bend supports to direct the lines out of the wall. stops will attach there.
2nd bath, lav on left, toilet to right. pex again. note the 2x3 staggered studs, and boxes of random stuff. and look, a pile of scrap lumber in the living room..
pic taken just inside the master bedroom entrance. the hole is on the right side of the closet. return air duct will run through here. it will be boxed out inside the closet.
the kitchen is full of cabinets i didn't bother trying to lift into the attic. the screwgun looks proud. bunch of pex fittings atop the corner cabinet.
both blowers mounted in the crawl (near and far.) wrapped in plastic until ready for the ductwork. coil of pex on the floor.
pex manifold, lines still being installed. the giant feeder cable is in the background, still have to run it outside to the main panel/disconnect.
the panel inside is technically a subpanel, but is basically my main panel. all the circuits come here.
the nook for the fridge, with icemaker waterline on the left. the second bath tub behind that wall, with hole in the corner for a return air trunk from the livingroom on the right (currently stocked with drain pipe.)
freshly poured pad for the fujitsu's outdoor unit.
the refrigerant valves of the two-zone fujitsu outdoor unit.
duct adapter, 6" round to 3-1/4x10"
6"x10" wall outlet to 3-1/4"x10" duct. this will go over the tub.
a section of 3-1/4"x10" rectangular duct.
imploded end after using tubing cutter
after reaming & deburring
tubing cutter scores pipe adjacent to cut if its not perfectly perpendicular and pipe is not straight
kitchen sink & dishwasher drains, venting to vent stack in wall
bathroom ventilation duct, 3-1/4x10, in wall. intake grille is above tub. transitions to 6" round at floor.
vacuum pump connected directly to micrometer with gauge hose and ball valve @ pump.
sheet metal & pipe stock on the dining room floor.
my mini brake, waiting patiently.
collection of hvac tools & material. rivet gun, seamer, two tin snips, crimper, two pipe cutters, pipe benders, torque wrench with crowfoot adapters, flare tool kit, bubble leak detector, vacuum pump oil, mastic, real duct tape, a baseboard register transition...
kitchen sink pipework. the vent is sloped away from the fixtures to avoid the wall blocking..
second bath drain/vent in place. 2" drain, 1-1/2" vent.
master bath drain/vent in place. 1-1/2" pvc.
laundry closet: 2" clothes washer drain with standpipe, 1-1/2" vent. tub vent on right.
determining dimensions of trunk duct. the line profile on the left is a cross-section of half the duct. the numbers are in inches, starting at S, ending at E.
the sheet is clamped into the brake precisely at the marks
marks are made on the sheet metal with a fine tip marker. awl scratches were too difficult to see.
at first i made cuts using this power shear. i later upgraded to a double blade shear, which didn't produce wavy edges along cuts.
bending with my mini brake
180-degree bends had to be finished by hand, as the brake jaw clearance is less than an inch in height
corners, where bends are made, are notched. this allows the s-cleats to be a little long
note the mark for bending is place above the notch, so bends can be precisely made
sheet notched, ready for bending
sewer lateral trench dug by hand
sewer lateral in place
cleanout adjacent to house integrated into vertical offset
turning vane assembly under construction
turning vane assembly ready for installation
ogee offset & transition & turning vane bend.
this took some time to design in sketchup and then build
turning vanes inside
bend in return line with radius inner throat.
transition under construction
transitions from rectangular duct to a set of round duct. the inner pyramids help to minimize volumetric changes inside the transition.
as katie said, it looks like a spaceship ;)
outlet adapter pieces
outlet adapter assembled
isaac begins spraying the walls in the master bedroom
during wall spraying; the truck's got a bunch of cellulose bags and a giant blowing machine
damp-spray cellulose prior to wall scrubbing. the cans were used to recycle all the stuff on the floor
i ran a bead of acoustical caulk along the top plates before drywall went up. next time i will use gaskets, the ceiling sheets smeared some parts while being hung.
blown cellulose fills all those nooks and crannies around boxes and what not
drywall stacked, ready for hanging. working around the cabinets was a pain
sheetrock hung, ready to be taped & mudded
the cabinets are all squished into the living room
recessed lights & pendant boxes in the kitchen ceiling
master bedroom closet with hvac return