We spent 10 days in Mongkok, a district 4 subway stops north of the harbor and said to be the most densely populated area on earth.
Friday night in Mongkok
It's working class and traditional with beginnings of redevelopment and change.
But still lots of small shops
Do I have too many photos of bamboo scaffolding?
Hairy crab season
Preparing tea at Langham Place
This shop makes detailed paper houses that will be burned for the dead
KFC Hong Kong style - the caption says
Metal rod shop
Preparing for the monsoons?
Xmas at the mall
The Nan Lian Garden is 7 subways stops outside of Mongkok
Stone seats at the garden
We took an hour bus ride to visit Sai Kung, a small, quiet seaside town
Drying salted duck eggs
In Sai Kung there are several restaurants along the water that will cook your selection from their tanks anyway you want.
We ventured over to Hong Kong Island many times. Here are pedestrian walkways that span the busy roads in the financial area.
Now for the eats. In Mongkok we liked Lei Garden. Their phoenix claw (aka chicken feet) are braised (rather than deep fried) so they are meltingly tender.
Fish and celery
Soup of the day...
made w/ pork pancreas and dried greens
J's fav. Prawns in a rich bisque
Fried egg noodles w/ scallops
Perfectly layered roast pork
Sweet dessert soup - w/ aloe and dates
Lau Sum Kee serves this dry noodle sprinkled w/ shrimp roe. A bowl of clear broth is served along with it for dunking.
It's very tiny and you can hardly get out with everyone trying to get a table.
Luckily, we were just a 15 minute walk to the Michelin-starred Tim Ho Wan. The menu is small and there are only 20 seats but the reason people are lining up for hours is because it is hands down the best dim sum ever and the cheapest too!
Their signature sugar glazed/crispy baked cha siu bao
Everything is made to order
The standard for fresh and light dim sum
These turnip cakes really taste like the vegetable.
The master at work.
This rare, old house in Central is Yin Yang, a "private kitchen" where the food all comes from the owner's organic farm in the New Territories.
Wild ginger in olive oil, crispy skin chicken baked in a clay oven - home style and wholesome
Tung Po is a popular seafood restaurant on Hong Kong island recently made food-world-famous by a visit from Anthony Bourdain. It is on the top floor of the Java Food Centre.
The fish market is on the first floor.
It's extremely loud and we sat w/ our backs to an industrial elevator that threatened to suck us off our stools whenever the doors opened.
Nice touch on the menu!
Communal seating w/ just the basics but first time I've seen baby wipes on the table.
Interesting dish - fried fish w/ corn sauce (just like the corn soup we all know and love)
We ordered eel but I was glad this came instead - steamed fish lips
Razor clams w/ black beans
This bakery exists for one reason...
egg tarts. I'm not biased when it comes to either flaky or cookie crust (this is the latter) but this wins for lightest and most flavorful.
Mak An Kee in Central had the best wonton mein. Crunchy noodles in a light, clear broth
& underneath - the wontons - a thin film of dough barely clinging around a single whole shrimp - that's it
Hong Kongese are crazy for sweet soups. I love grass jelly. With ripe mangoes and evaporated milk it is my ultimate comfort food.
Honeymoon Desserts in the Langham Mall had doufu fa (silky tofu) with mangoes and milk. Another refreshing way to end a day of eating in Hong Kong.
I credit openrice.com & the X Team @ the Langham Place Hotel for recs & research