The first thing you must do when working with slippery fabric, or fabric that shifts, is to make sure it is perfectly on grain. I do this by tearing the fabric crosswise and then lining it up with the grid both vertically and horizontally. I have found that I need to do this throughout the layout process since the fabric may be on grain at one end, but off again halfway through
When cutting the bias necktie, first put your fabric on grain, then fold the torn edge carefully to meet the selvedge. You must reallign all of your fabric. Lay the neck piece on the fold you have just created.
before sewing the shoulder seams, make sure to mark where the seamlines for neck and shoulder intersect. This is especially crucial on this pattern.
Sew the left shoulder seam from the sleeve edge to the neckline, stopping where you marked the intersection
Clip the neck edge at the mark all the way to the seam allowance and press under.
Sew down the turned under part and trim close to the stitching. You could turn this under twice, but I only did once.
If you have not already done so, mark your center front and center back on the bodice pieces. Then, gather the front and back between asterisks. Use the measurements listed on the pattern.
On the collar piece, be sure and mark CF, CB, shoulders, stitch line, and fold line. line up these markings and pin collar to right side of front and back.
fold the collar up with the right sides facing you
fold the collar back down, right sides together, and pin the overhanging ends on both sides. Stitch, trim corners and seam allowances, and fold right side out.
If I were smarter, I would have folded under the 5/8" on the raw edge before I attached it, but I didn't. You need to press that under and then pin it to the neck edge to encase the raw edge.
You can stitch this by machine because it won't show, but I think it's just as fast and actually easier to do by hand.
next, fold under the short side on the fold line, or just bring the edge to the place where it is stitched on. Pin this to the inside and stitch
Use double thread and place running stitches down the middle of the inside. I used a wooden spoon (which I later stepped on and broke in two) to keep from catching the outside layer.
pull these stitches as tight as you can to gather up your loop. Try looping the scarf end through from the bottom and top to see which way you like it better. The rest of the blouse is easy. First, trim your arm seam allowances so that you only have 1/4" s.a. Then, before sewing the side seams, apply the bias strips to bind the armholes. Next, sew the side seams and then turn under the bias strips and topstitch them in place. I serged the bottom edge and then turned up the hem just the width of the serging and topstitched.
Finished blouse - BWOF 2/08 119
Although this is a poly chiffon (not sheer) it drapes beautifully and feels really nice.