I left Stanford at around 7:15am Saturday morning and picked up Nat in Davis. We got to the crag sometime around 11:30. Here's the view of Sugarloaf, an approximately 400-foot-tall formation, from the parking area.
"Bolee Gold, a three-pitch 5.10, goes up up the broad south face, a bit right of the sun-shade line. We would climb this the next day.
Our first objective of the day, and excellent 80-foot 5.10d finger crack called "The Fracture".
Next up was "Taurus", 5.11b. The bottom 15 feet is the crux, with powerful pulls on sharp finger fingerlocks. The top part of the pitch is awesome laybacking and underclinging up the steep flake (~5.10-).
I fell a few times on the opening but eventually figured it out. The top was so fun that we decided to do it a second time (I sent it on that try).
At this point, it started to snow pretty hard but we kept climbing. This is Nat on "Dominion", 5.10a. It thankfully stopped snowing just before I led through the crux lieback.
As we were climbing "Dominion", a couple bailed off this climb, "Morticia", 5.9. Tempted by the bail biner, we decided to give it a go, and it was surprisingly fun.
The next day, we got to the crag at around 8:15 and roped up for "Bolee Gold", a three-pitch 5.10c. The route follows the left skyline all the way to the top of the south summit of Sugarloaf.
The first pitch climbs under the left side of the roof, traversing slightly to avoid it.
Nat following the crux first pitch. Really fun 5.10 edging and slabbing. Safely but not tightly bolted.
The second pitch started with more 5.10 face climbing and finished on much easier but still entertaining terrain.
The upper half of the second pitch had the best knob tie-off I have encountered.
Climbers on the third pitch of "Farley", 5.9. I've only climbed the first pitch, which is a really fun lieback flake. This final pitch looks worthy too.
The third pitch of our climb was a very elegant 100 feet of 5.8R. The climbing was thought-provoking and exciting, but never too difficult.
If pitch 2 had the best knob tie off I'd ever seen, this pitch had the worst I'd ever bothered with.
After finishing off this pitch, 4 rappels with a single 60m rope gets you back to the ground.
Next up was "The Man Who Fell To Earth", 5.11b. Hard slabbing. Not my forte, but still enjoyable.
"Happy Face", 5.10c, starts with some awesome moves slapping up the arete, and finishes with good but ultimately forgettable slab climbing.
Nat takes his turn on "Happy Face".
Our last route of the trip was "Make That Move Now Baby", 5.10d. The bottom slab was rough on the fingertips at this point in the day, but the moves through the roof and up the arete (out of sight) were great.
A bad shot of the cool arete finish, which goes on for at least 50 feet! Good stuff. I can't wait to come back (or to explore other crags in the Tahoe area).