Outside corners are lock-mitered in the shop and then attached on site.
Laying out the coffered ceiling
After windows were trimmed, we installed the panels and glued/clamped them together, leaving out the top panel molding for the clamps
Detail of lock-mitered corners
Holy shim fest batman!
Mass produced coffer supports.
Installing the coffer supports
Ready for the trim
First box and crown installed.
Close up of construction.
Preassembling the crown. The Ulmia spring clamps saved the day.
Crown assembly jig.
Step in top of crown back was made with table saw. The crown back wasn't milled at 90 deg.
Assembly jig in action.
Empty framing cavity was insulated, air sealed and plywooded over. It will be easier to attach the column detail to the plywood than around the rough framing.
Boxes and crown finished, starting the soffit pieces
Soffit joints were biscuited and pocket screwed. Screws will be covered by molding.
We had to install panelling before the doors. If we remember to install the doors to this layout, the stiles will be the correct width.
Door/casing layout boards to locate panel stiles.
Door casings for the 2nd floor trim.
Master BR window/door wall I finished today.
Hi - tech clamp for sill return.
Detail of casing/window sill.
2nd floor window trim.
This window unit should be fun to trim.
Filling in the gap - not all our joinery is perfect, but we do no try to improve upon the flaws
Our small miter saw set-up with vacuum.
Command central - tools and supplies.
More of our set-up.
Improved table for plans. We needed the garbage can elsewhere.
Dining room done, on to the living room.
2nd floor hall panelling - joinery.
Checking the joint for flatness.
Spacer stick to make sure all panels are same height.
Simple tools for spreading glue.
Milling lock-miter for columns in the shop.
Gluing up the first half-column.
Set-up for gluing.
Gluing up the full column. Glued only one side so it can be installed in field over the steel post.
Installing preassembled crown unit. Stretch wrap is bowing the sides a bit to make it easier to install.
Close-up of preassembled crown install.
Dedicated saw station for cutting crown.
Living room side almost done today. Soffit and moldings to be finished monday.
Routing edge detail on columns.
Final upgrade to the plan table. We had to move it to get to the fireplace.
Routed profile, needs to be cleaned up with some hand work.
Routing finished, next step with a sharp chisel.
Post in place.
Post to sit on top of baseboard so mitered base cap doesn't open up from boards expanding.
Plywood cleat fastened to column before installation.
Top profiles installed over top of column so expanding column doesn't open up the mitered moldings.
Finished column top.
Baseboard in the morning.
Nailers installed for column.
Base for column moldings.
Column set on base.
Finished column with base detail.
Finished column with cap detail.
Living room ceiling finished.
Base for column top installed.
Column top finished.
Column top detail.
Column base finished. Top of base cap is the seam between the poplar column and the plywood base.
2nd Floor landing nearing completion.
Detail of panel, baseboard, casing and backband.
Baseplate jig for routing columns.
This is the router bit used for the columns. 1/2" roundover with the bearing removed.
Glueing up the mitered mantle legs
All the parts are milled and ready.
Plywood mantle side, lock-mitered to front panel leg.
Detail of plywood to solid wood joint. I left the solid wood proud, offsetting the miter a bit, to make the corner more durable.
Temporary wall to mock up the mantle parts.
Detail of plywood lock-mitered to solid wood stile.
Gluing up the panel stile and rails.
Large lamello biscuits for the 4" wide rails.
Beginning to put the parts together.
Dave in the picture to show the scale.
Miter saw set-up in the shop for cutting small moldings.
Detail of panel molding, dry fit, will be glued and nailed on site. The parts will be fastened to the framing with screws hidden behind the moldings.
Dry fitting the mantle shelf profile.
Mantle legs and base for entablature installed.
Box oh shims.
Fitting plywood around mantle sides to protect hearthstone.
The painters did a little work while we were in the shop.
Close up of poor detailing inside chimney. Where was the building inspector for this one?
Great tool for on site work.
Base for overmantle installed.
Detail of upper columns.
Blocking installed for upper column.
Upper column fitted and installed.
Both upper columns installed.
Next step is to install the cabinets and finish the moldings.
There was a bit of layout in order to install the ceiling before the mantle. Would have preferred to work in the opposite order.
Cabinets to install monday.
Glueing up the nosing to the mantle top.
Using cut offs of the profile as negative cauls for clamping.
View from the jobsite today. Not too shabby.
Using full scale layouts in the shop, checking alignment of the parts.
Full scale layout of the mantle side.
Close-up of the mantle top layout.
Installing the mantle legs.
The parts are coming together.
The upper cabinet to the left was much easier to install, the wall didn't have a 5/16" hump in it.
Detail of cabinet fit to mantle. Cabinet was fit to wall and pushed over to mark the mantle top. The mantle was cut with the multimaster and fine tuned with a sharp chisel.
Toekick space for the subwoofer.
Testing the glue joint.
Bench seat top installed. Cut with track saw and fine tuned with the block plane.
Started running the trim on the mantle.
Just waiting for the crown. The crown will be made in the shop and installed in the morning.
This is why the cabinet stiles are so wide.
This is where the layout became so important. The last trim piece had to land flush with the side of the soffit on the beam.
Hand nailed miters (4p finish). Note the sqeeze out of the glue. This provides the clamping pressure for a real nice glue joint.
I wish we were asked to do the outside . . . I think we could have come up with a better detail than this.
this is not my work.
Why couldn't they make this sill curved to match the wall?
Something behind every door.
Installing curved glass stops in the doors - the last item on the punch list for us.
Jig for cutting glass stop molding
Curved Glass stops.
Using cut-off from glueing cauls to cut angles on stop molding.
Sandpaper provides friction to keep the blade from pulling the piece in.
Jig for cutting the crazy miters on the table saw.
Cutting the miters on the table saw.
Using part of the glue caul to cut angle on end of stop.