August, 2001: via the North Ridge.
On the hike in, at about 12km.
Off route on the "Gmoser Highway", on the approach to the mountain.
A typical short steep step on the Gmoser Highway.
Nearing the end of the big traverse on the Gmoser Highway.
Looking back at Lake Magog.
The mountain from the hut. The north ridge is the left skyline.
The hut just before sunrise.
Steeper terrain as we approach the Red Band.
Entering the Red Band, where the climbing begins.
Lynn arriving at the top of the Red Band
Back on the true ridge.
Mixed terrain between the bands.
Leading the crux section through the Gray Band. This section is nearly vertical, but the holds are excellent.
The upper ridge leading to the summit.
Looking back along the final ridge from the summit.
The view to the north from the summit.
Down-climbing the ridge.
Beginning a rappel.
Rappelling a rubbly ledge section.
Back at the hut.
Late August, 1995: via the East Ridge.
Mt. Temple from the NE. The E. Ridge that we climbed is roughly on the left skyline.
Typical of the 3rd and 4th class rock on the lower half of the rock ridge.
Steep scrambling on the lower ridge.
The valley to the south from the ridge.
Approaching the Big Step, the crux of the route.
Pitch 2 of the Big Step.
Starting Pitch 3 of the Big Step.
A level section of ridge leading to the S Face traverse.
Looking back down the ridge.
At the end of the traverse below the Black Towers, close to the beginning of the exit gully.
Climbing the lower part of the exit gully. The wrong gully is to the left.
Looking down the exit gully from its top - the photogapher is back on solid snow.
Beginning the scenic summit snow ridge.
On the summit snow ridge looking back (west.)
The leader nears the summit.
On the trail back to the car.
Late August 1997, via the North Face.
The North Face from near the base.
Sunrise on the approach, just after reaching the glacier.
The North Face from the approach, which goes over the small saddle at the base of the Silverhorn.
Looking north from the saddle on the approach to the NF.
The North Face from the saddle.
Looking down the North Face from 1/3 up.
Looking up from 1/2 way.
Looking down from 5/8 way.
Climbing the crux near the top of the face.
Looking down from the belay shelf (piton anchors here) just above the crux.
The final steep snow slope to the summit.
Beginning the descent (This photo from a climb of the Silverhorn route in 1975)
Traversing the crest from the summit to the Silverhorn. The North Face is to the left.
On the descent - the Sunwapta River and the Icefields Parkway to the north.
Almost back to the parking area - the trail on the moraine.
Late August 1994, via a route called "Photo Finish" on the North Face.
Sorting gear at the car the night before the climb.
The North Face of Mt. Andromeda from the highway. The route goes up the ice and through the big cornice just right of center.
The mountain from the apprach, early AM.
Approaching the main face.
The climb begins above the bergschrund.
At a belay station.
About halfway up the face.
Lynn removes an ice screw.
The face begins to steepen, but conditions are still excellent.
Arriving at a belay stance.
The upper face becomes quite steep - looking west.
Looking down at Lynn through the slot I made through the cornice at the top.
Success! Now we had to gain the true summit and descend a different route in a snow storm in the dark. We arrived back at the car at 4:00am after 22 hours.
We attempted the North Face 4 times over several years, and succeeded on the East Ridge in early August, 1999.
Local fauna, Jasper area.
The North Face of Mt. Edith Cavell, from Jasper. Over the years we made four attempts on the North Face, the last almost ending in disaster. The East Ridge comes up on the left - one attempt, one success.
The East Ridge is the right skyline.
Angel Glacier. The approach to the North Face climbs the broken face to the right.
Beginning one of the approaches to the North Face.
Climbing the lower step.
Arriving on the main Angel Glacier under the North Face.
Just after starting up the North Face, a barrage of rockfall came down. Lynn took a direct hit on the helmet, and slid 500 ft down the snow slope unconscious. For the next 24 hours, she didn't know where she was.
We spent two nights in a bivouac recovering from the accident and from serious back muscle spasms that rendered me immobile.
Looking back at the North Face from our bivouac spot.
The Park Service initiated a search when we were overdue. We descended via helicopter.
The East Ridge of Edith Cavell was much kinder to us. Here we begin the climb.
Some 3rd & 4th class rock low on the ridge.
One of the typical snow slopes that alternate with rock.
Typical snow climbing on the East Ridge.
The scenery is a good part of the reason for doing this climb. This shot looks north toward the town of Jasper, which is under the clouds.
On the big shoulder, looking at the upper ridge.
Beginning the upper ridge.
Leading the crux pitch, a short 5.3 chimney. The rope was a formality, and I wouldn't take one again.
Looking down the North Face to Cavell Lake (in the distance) and Iceberg Lake below.
Typical climbing on the upper ridge.
The final section leading to the summit ridge.
The east summit.
Looking into the Tonquin Valley from the descent via the West Ridge. It's a long, complex descent.
The end of the long trail back to the car; looking up at the North Face.
We climbed the Kain Face on the Northeast side in late August, 1994
Entrance to the park from the west. This was taken on our trans-Canada bike ride (another album). The goat is not real.
The vast western exposure of Mt. Robson from the campground. This is a huge mountain, with almost 10,000' of vertical rise.
Day 1 of approach, in the "Valley of a Thousand Falls."
On day 1 of approach, crossing a foot bridge.
Emperor Falls from a camp at the end of day 1.
Passing by the North Face and Berg Lake on day 2.
Approaching the Robson Glacier.
On the Robson Glacier.
High on the Robson Glacier, Kain Face above.
Mt. Robson from the north, 20 years earlier than in the previous photograph. Note the huge snow bulge on the Kain face that no longer exists.
Approaching the icefall.
In the icefall.
Crossing the bergschund at the base of the Kain (taken on descent; it is dark on the way up.)
On the Kain face (taken on descent.)
At the top of the Kain Face, greeting the sun.
Above the face, on the level corniced ridge section, sunrise.
High on the East Ridge. Note two climbers below, on the ridge crest.
On the South Face, on the traverse below the East ridge.
Continuing around to the south. By now we had almost circumnavigated the mountain.
The crux of the route, a 50-degree slope to regain the crest of the East Ridge, just below the summit.
On the top in fog. We'd be denied a view.
On the descent, looking back up at the East Ridge
Descending the icefall.
Back onto the Robson Glacier.
A camp on the glacier.
Back to greenery and a human-friendly environment.
Crossing an icy stream on the way out.