Approaching the Bugaboos
Approaching Bugaboo Spire
Looking up the NE Ridge
Scrambling to the base of the route.
Starting the climb, one of the most popular in the Bugaboos. Another party just ahead.
These folks are actually off-route, a common mistake at this point.
A short rappel from the summit of the climb leads to the long ridge run to the descent route.
A classic shoulder stand by some European climbers (1975)
The rappel route on the Kain route.
Looking over at Snowpatch Spire.
Looking towards Pigeon Spire (left) and the Howser Towers.
Approaching Pigeon Spire (left). The route is on the right ridge.
Approaching the spire
At the base of the ridge.
Low on the route.
Classic a cheval
Nearing the top
Other climbers on the final pitch
Soloing the crux pitch, a rather featureless slab. We chose not to take a rope on this moderate climb.
Another party reaching the true summit.
On the descent, looking at the Howser Towers.
Headed back to the hut, over that col.
The Conrad Kain hut, where we have stayed every time we visited the Bugaboos.
The view from the highway is actually the most impressive. The route is the left ridge.
On a moraine below the peak.
Bivouac at the saddle at the base of the ridge.
Looking up the ridge from the col.
On the final summt ridge.
Pano from the summit.
Headed back down.
Rapelling a short section of ridge.
This route is often done without a rope, but it saves a lot of time on the descent.
On the approach trail to the Bugaboos again.
The lower part of the ridge in profile.
Beginning the climb.
This attempt became an epic. A storm caught us in a bivouac, we rappeled, and our ropes got stuck. We lost the ropes.
The night before the climb, attempt 2, a year later.
Phenomenal cracks and dihedrals characterize this climb.
The bivouac site, as far as we got on our first attempt.
Cracks above the bivouac ledge.
Late on day 1.
Starting up from a forced bivouac.
Fresh snow from the night we spent in the open without sleeping bags.
Rappelling the north side into the fog.
The back (north) side, which serves as a rappel descent to the glacier.
Back on the glacier.
Brewer Buttress is in the middle of the photo (if you can't read the captions)
Closeup of the Brewer Buttress (middle of the photo).
Hiking to the hut.
Scrambles on the approach to the hut.
The hut on Goat Plateau. Not exactly the Lake Louise Lodge.
Looking over at the route (skyline) from the hut.
The route stays mostly to the right of the buttress.
Looking back at the hut from the base of the buttress.
Low on the climb.
A guided party comes up below us.
Wandering about the huge, flat summit area in the fog looking for the descent gully.
Descending with the guided party.
The trail back to the hut.
Headed down to the valley.
Wiwaxy, in the Lake O'Hara region. The route is the ridge toward the camera.
Belaying pitch 1.
Steep but easy climbing.
Lake O'Hara, one of the most spectacular in Canada, below.
Reaching the summit.
Scrambles on the descent.
Descending scree to the Lake.
Mt. Gimli is in south-eastern B.C.
Approaching on the trail.
Camp on a saddle below the ridge.
Pitch 1. Another party was already at the base, but we asked to start first. Good thing, because they stalled out at pitch 3 and descended.
Easy scrambling near the summit.
View from the top.
Going down the easy way.
The climbing route in profile.