Shows the placement/alignment of the underarm sleeve as well as the front adjustments on the 2nd mockup.
All seams have 5/8" seam allowance.
Shows the adjustment on the 2nd mockup. All seams have 5/8 seam allowance.
The back of the mock-up.
Shows the position of the sleeve gore that is aligned directly over the shoulder blades.
Shows the placement of the underarm seam. The under arm seam lines up with the side seam
Shows the front and the shoulder seam. I had to take in the shoulder sem by an inch or so, which moved the shoulder a little farther back.
Also shows the lines for the neckline.
The corrections made to the shoulder seam and the neckline. The red marker is the cut line, being 5/8" out from the stitch line.
Shows the pattern after removing the extra pieces. Gambison is still large enough to accomodate the padding.
Side Gore Pattern piece. In order to eliminate bulk, I am removing the tip of the gore. The red lines are the stitchlines with a 5/8" seam allowance. I measured 5/8" above the the sewn tip of the gore, and drew a cut line.
Pattern layout on top of the actual linen fabric.
From bottome right clockwise: Front, top back, arm piece 1, back skirt, shoulderblade gore.
Another view of the pieces ontop of the fabric.
Starting bottom right, going clockwise: Shoulderblade gore, back of the top of the sleeve, side gore.
On top is the bottom half of the sleeve.
Almost the entire cutting layout
Measuring out the the lines for handsewing the channels.
Each channel is 1" wide.
Originally I measured in 1" from each sie. However, I decided this was not the best method for the application of the channels.
The 2nd design for the application of the channels. I like this method much better. 1" wide channels radiating out from the center of the piece. Marked on the inside of the fabric. Both laters held together with quilters safety pins
Both of the back skirt pieces, marked and pinned ready for hand-sewing.
Initially I was going to mark it on the outside green linen. However, I am using green silk thread for sewing, and it is much easier to see my stitches on the inside of the black linning.
The back arm piece
The back arm piece with the gore cut
The stitch lines for the back arm piece
The placement of the sleeves and gores on the gambison. Also shows the seam allowance, and where it needed to be fitted
The alterations that needed to be done.
The mockup of the gambison
Placement of the sleeve gore.
Placement of the sleeve, and skirt.
The alterations done on the front, as well as the altered neckline.
Adding Seam Allowance to the neckline
The altered pattern
The seam allowance on the side gore
Layout of the pattern pieces.
layout of the pattern pieces
1st draft of the lines for the channel quilting
Skirt piece for channel quilting
2nd (and final) lines of the channel quilting
The arm piece, which will have the gore cut into it.
Stitchlines of the arm piece
Sewing the skirt pieces together after the channel stitches were done.
Sewing the skirt back pieces together after they have been channeled quilted.
Extending the channel stitching to the backstitch line
Assembly of the back piece
Assembly of the arm piece
The arm pieces
Assembling the side gore
Assembling the body piece.
Assembling the body piece