After a great night of camping and sleeping under the stars on the west side of the Organs we drove up the gnarly road a bit more and started hiking just before 8am.
Our destination. The Tooth!
George starting up the first pitch, 5.8, of Tooth or Consequences.
“Hey George, you ready to lead the third pitch? 5.10 friction climbing with some widely spaced bolts for protection?”
George was up for the task! A .75 camalot in the crack at the bottom, a fixed piton at the next crack, four widely spaced bolts on the thin face and then one small cam placement before the anchors. It was wild!
The face was so clean and thin looking it looked improbable. George moved with great deliberation and hammered it out.
Oh yeah! Tuoloumne style and quality face climbing in southern NM.
A view up the face. Not a lot there but just enough. Amazing.
Looking down the fourth pitch. It was an enjoyable 5.9 pitch with great moves right on the arete.
Starting up the fifth pitch, 5.9+.
The view from the top. Las Cruces is down there in the valley. Looking west.
We rapped down to the top of the second pitch and headed up the neigboring route, Tooth Extraction, 5.10. Here George traverses onto the 5.9 friction face moves of pitch three.
George was kind enough to give me the 5.10 fourth pitch which ascended a corner system to a small roof and then more corner climbing above. Beautiful position.
George leading off up on the fifth pitch which is rated 5.9 but is some of the more strenuous 5.9 laybacking I've done in a while.
Then traverse left on a ledge into 5.8 off-width crack climbing to the summit.
This is The Wedge, a bigger formation just north of The Tooth. I spied at least one likely-unclimbed route on The Wedge that looks just awesome.
A view of The Tooth on our way out.
At sunset with the moon setting over the Rabbit Ears from Aguirre Springs Campground on Saturday night.