After a midnight arrival to a camp at the Mill Creek area near Moab, UT on Thursday night, we headed down Friday morning to check out the climbing. A chain ladder helps climbers get down there.
Josh negotiating the chain ladder. The local climbers are quite industrious.
Crossing from the WIcked Crag to the Sunnyside Crag involves a walk acorss a sagging old log with a hand line for security
Allison and I opted to get started on this 5.10a route called Magic Carpet Ride. Fun climbing on bullet sandstone with nice position
Daniel and Josh quickly got on the area classic Black Widow Arete, 5.11.
Little crimps on sharp, fantastic black sandstone are the name of the game. Daniel stares down his next crimp.
The gorgeous streaked wall to the left of Black Widow Arete holds a 5.13 bolt protected line that has been led on gear by Sonnie Trotter.
We also climbed this 5.10 face route right of Black Widow Arete
Daniel later got on Ferns Have Feelings Too, 5.11. It's a long, nice route in the same vein as Black Widow Arete
Josh on attentive belay duty with his belay glasses
Daniel working through the crux
Josh about to get into the overhanging scooped crux of Flaming Groovy, 5.12c
This is a wicked awkward section overhaning much more than it appears here
The face to the left is sharp 5.12c crimping. The crack just to the right is 5.10 crack climbing. With finger tips feeling pretty tender near the end of the day, the choice was obivous.
Back at our camp near Lake Oowah that evening. It was a really nice camp site.
Our camp was flanked by loads of aspen trees. It would be a beautiful place later in the fall.
Saturday we went back to Mill Creek and headed further down the canyon to find a plethora of routes
Daniel starts up a fun, steep line that has seen loads of traffic. Beta for the area is virtually non-existent so we just climbed what looked like fun. We guessed this one to be around 5.12a/b
The route had a pronounced crux, right here
We found an alternative entry/exit point closer to the lower routes that involved a rope ladder instead of a chain ladder
After a stop in Moab to visit the gear stores and eat ice cream, we headed down to Indian Creek. Toasty in the sun but quite reasonable in the shade
Sunday morning we went to the Reservoir Crag as it is in the shade most of the day. Josh gets warmed up on Dr. Carl, 5.10-
Allison and I started on this wide hands crack. With her smaller hands, Allison opted for mostly liebacking this one.
Pente is a long 5.11-. Daniel gets going.
Josh well on his way on Pente. The streaked rock to the right was really cool
Josh guessed Pente is named after the five-sided block above me here
Way cool streaks
Tools of the trade
Josh heads up Slot Machine, 5.11+. You can't see the slot in this photo...
But you can see it here. Apparently this crack used to be tough, tight hands up high but is slowly expanding and is now closer to standard hands. Climb it soon before it falls off or, like me, gamble and wait for wide hands and then climb it
Daniel ends the day on an unknown 5.10
Sandstone and the moon
After a long day of climbing Josh still hadn't had enough and put up this route, a T1, in a cottonwood in our camp
The walk-off descent
From cottonwood trees to off-width, Josh gets to sweating on Binge and Purge, 5.11 OW at the Supercrack Buttress
Labor Day weekend is a great time to be at Indian Creek if you don't like crowds. Four cars in the Supercrack Buttress parking area constituted a crowd
Daniel ending up the trip on The Wave, hard 5.10+