We loaded up Bill's Jeep at Guido's house in Los Alamos on Thursday, Aug. 28, 2003. We did not take the Bender mobile for this one.
We car bivied somewhere in northern CO that night
We arrived at Grand Teton NP at 3:30pm on Friday and went to get our backpacking permits for Garnet Canyon. We saw this coyote on the way into the park.
View of the Tetons later in the trip so you get the idea
Celery phones weren't allowed on the Jenny Lake dock in the park so I used my cell phone instead.
Saturday morning we awoke to rain so we found this covered shelter in a park in Jackson to get organized so we could hike in that afternoon.
Bill busted out sandwiches for four for two days
We weren't real encouraged by the weather on our drive to the park that afternoon but we had our permits and the forecast was for clearing weather so we went for it
In the parking area we noticed two fit and fast looking guys with light packs snickering and scoffing at our big packs and n00b discussions about gear. The left the parking area just before we did and I determined to show them up by cruising past them with my heavy-ass pack so I snapped this photo as we left the parking lot just before 3pm and I took off...
The clouds were lifting as we hiked into Garnet Canyon
But still a little thick up high in Garnet Canyon
Our permit that night was for the meadows area below the moraine camp. I managed to pass the snooty guys about a half mile before reaching this spot at camp. In the last half mile it was clear they stepped up their speed and tried to catch me again. But it didn't happen. Suckers!
We found a killer camp under a large house boulder
Nothing but the best (bottled beer) for us climbers!
Bill's toes, left, and my toes, right, were both a little roughed up.
Sunset that night was pretty phenomenal
Sunrise on Sunday, Aug. 31st, was awesome. Clouds blanketing the valley but clear up here.
A gorgeous day! We were psyched! Our objective for this day was to move camp up to the lower saddle up there.
At our camp in the meadows we played a game of throw little rocks into Jason's slipper from atop the big boulder. This entertained us for quite a while.
New snow had fallen up high but we weren't planning to climb the direct Exum until the next day giving it all day to melt a bit
Irene's Arete. We did not climb it but really wanted to. Another trip perhaps.
Gigantic fixed lines just below the lower saddle
Relaxing. The pace of this trip (three nights) was really nice and easy.
Enjoying lunch above the moraine
Panoramic shot from the Lower Saddle looking east
Camp at the lower saddle
We got to the lower saddle and established our camp. This gave us time to scope out the approach to the direct exum route. To get to the start of the route we hiked up the snowy slope to the notch and turned the corner just a bit.
I think you can see most of the entire exum ridge (right skyline) here
Looking over Idaho with another awesome sunset.
That evening we heard shouts and screams for help. A couple had been caught in the previous days' storm and one member had injured his leg. A guide camped at the lower saddle with us called in a helicopter (lower portion of photo) to rescue the hiker.
Lifting the injured climber
Monday morning we didn't have a real alpine start and reached the start of the route around 8:30am
Watching Guido lead the first pitch
In the sun and looking up the rest of the lower exum
Eric somewhere along the lower exum
Guido tries to remember how to belay
Butt shot of Bill leading the crux pitch 5, the black face, 5.7.
Looking over at middle Teton
Erik following the black face
I still have those cams. My first set of cams--Trango flex cams.
Erik coming up to Wall Street
Now easier cruising on the upper Exum
Guido, Bill and Erik on the upper Exum
Summit photo, 4:43pm
Guido happy to be coming up to the summit
Lots of lakes on the east side of the Tetons
And now for the descent. We descended the Owens-Spalding route, more or less. Because it faces north, it was still pretty snowy.
A short rappel was made dodgier by the snow
A long rappel
Back at camp at the lower saddle we were treated to an incredible sunset at 8:00pm
The next day we celebrated the awesome adventure with beers and large quantities of meat at a steakhouse in Jackson
Panoramic photo in the meadows of Garnet Canyon