Starting from the “trailhead”--the last switchback on the road to the Crest parking area.
First, hike out to North Peak.
Hike down towards the Knife edge of the Shield but leave the trail here cutting back southeast.
Find the rap tree and fixed line if you're lucky. The fixed line was good enough for us to rap on.
Looking up first fixed line.
Then we made our way west on a big ledge descending below the Shield. There were two fixed hand lines to help with exposed fourth class action.
Downclimbing the second fixed line. Airy.
We left the car at 7:45am and started climbing at 9:15am. Good time.
On the second pitch I traversed over a bit too high leaving us with this thin, exposed 5.9+ step-across move.
George starting up the third pitch. 5.10c. Follow the super clean corner (with bushes!) to the big roof and then pass the roof right.
George starting to pass the roof.
The moves were thin but awesome! Coming around the end of the roof was fabulous.
George likes to hug rock sometimes. This time, at the top of the fourth pitch.
Starting up the fifth pitch. 5.7ish with some big ledges and trees.
The view of Albuquerque from the big ledge at the top of the fourth pitch.
Top of the sixth pitch on a nice arete.
George may or may not have picked the correct cam for this placement on his first try. You better ask him.
Good times arete on the seventh pitch.
The eigth pitch we moved right to the start of a route called “The Odyssey”, 5.10a. Good slab climbing.
Holy S!@*% Amazingly clean face. The Odyssey goes left on thin face moves to really nice 5.8 climbing on the arete.
George did awesome to lead the thin 5.10a face moves. Very airy! Now he's enjoying the fabulous arete.
it doesn't look as steep in the photo as it truly is. Awesome position.
Looking up the arete. Loads of fixed pins and some bolts protect this pitch.
Starting up the tenth pitch (third pitch of The Odyssey). Note all the pitons. There were four in about 11 feet! Then more throughout the pitch. No rack needed!
Looking down the 11th pitch (I linked pitches 10 and 11.)
And we're done!
Pick up packs, hike back. 6.25 hours of climbing and a 9 hour car to car day. Not to bad for a route on The Shield!
A holy tree! Ha.