Having climbed Levitation 29 on the same wall two days ago, we knew the drill. Parking at highway 159 and starting the approach at 5:30am
We also now knew the fourth class/low fifth class scrambling shortcut to Eagle Wall
The IBM Boulder again. More clouds than two days ago.
The sun is over there hiding somewhere. Please come sun, please come.
More scrambling shortcut action...almost to the wall
Eagle Wall! Can you see the brown varnish eagle? It's headed left with the head and eye left of center.
The eye of the eagle is in dead center here
The full eagle. The Eagle Dance route's fourth pitch climbs right through the eagle's eye
Looking up the slick varnish of the first pitch of the route
The sun wasn't out yet and there was some light snow falling (white specks in the photo) so took our time racking up
I linked the first two pitches (5.9 and 5.8). Looking down from the top of P2
Daniel heading up the great third pitch. Steep, sustained 5.10- climbing for 160 feet.
Daniel higher up on the third pitch
P3 follows up a left angling crack but includes a lot of bolts for pro
Looking up the 5.10c fourth ptich. Also well bolted. Oddly the first few bolts were really close together
Looking down P4. Very much like the third pitch--super fun.
Finishing up P4
Heading up P5, 5.10a
P6 wasn't very awesome. Awkward 5.9 on sketchy looking and sounding rock
Looking down P6
P7 is the A0 bolt ladder. 9 or so bolts allow climbers to clip and pull through the overhanging section to access more climbing above.
After the aiding the pitch goes into a very awkward and difficult slot for another short pitch. Daniel linked it with the aid pitch because the belay totally sucks. It's rated 5.10b but we both felt it to be quite a bit more difficult and strenuous than that.
P9 was sandy slab on degrading rock rated 5.10c. It felt stout to me.
One more pitch of easy climbing takes one to the top. We decided to rap the route instead of topping out and doing the walk off again. You can rap the route with a single 70m rope
Back down at the base. It took us 1.5 hours to rappel the route. Look at all that cacti!
Gratuitious cacti close up
One last look up at the fabulous Eagle Wall
We made it out before dark this time. Our car to car time was almost exactly 11 hours