For our last day of climbing in France we returned to the fun and easy-to-access area Orpierre. This is a view of the main climbing area and the climbing is surprisingly better than it looks from afar. It was too hot for the sun so we headed to the six pitch, 5.11+ slab crux route “La Terreur du Chien Fou” on Quiquillon because it was in the shade.
A panoramic shot (poorly cropped) showing nearly all of the climbing. Quiquillon is behind me in this photo and there is a quite a bit climbing beyond that too.
Ah, in the shade. Allison starts up P1 which was 5.8+
I linked P2 (5.10b slab) and P3 (5.11+ slab) in one long, tiresome pitch thanks to my bolt aiding through the amazingly difficult smooth slab section of about 30 feet. Mad props to the FAs and anyone that climbs that free!
Allison following P2
Really challenging slab climbing on very good rock
Finishing up with the hard P3. The rest was cruiser 5.7 to the top which gives me the opinion this route really isn't worth doing--a 30 minute approach, you have to bring two ropes for the descent, easy climbing to crazy hard slab climbing and then cruiser climbing the rest of the way. However, the view from the summit was very nice and made the outing worth it.
The climbing-orientated town of Orpierre with the crags above it
A few more moves to the top!
The view looking mostly north from the summit of Quiquillon. Should be able to see the Alps on a clear day.
In the later day sun as we rapped the crux section appeared to have more features than it felt like it did.
Another view of the formation. We climbed on the smooth slabby prow right of the shaded cave.
Trickling waterfall in the small creek along the base of the main wall.