We arrived at Maple Canyon on Wednesday afternoon and snagged campsite number 6 which we highly recommend. We were astonished at the amount of rock! 20 to 30 times as much rock as El Rito, NM and much taller!
To sample the rock that evening we climbed the two-pitch route, The Great Chasm, 5.7. The route is all bolts for both pitches and goes to the summit of a nice out-cropping. It even had a summit register!
Allison making the initial moves of the first pitch. It was a full 60m long with nearly 20 bolts and no harder than 5.5.
Finding the way up the first pitch.
Did I say the first pitch was a full 60m!
Allison heading up the steep but very juggy 5.7 second pitch.
There is SO much rock in this area!
On the summit. Viewing the area from down low is hard due to all the trees so being up high on this spot was a great way to get a feel for the area.
Thursday morning we checked out the Maple Corridor and started on this 5.10a route. It's nearly impossible to know what route you're on because they all look the same! The best advice we got was, “If it's steep, it's hard. If it's vertical or less, it's easy!”
The nights and mornings were cool but it warmed up nicely every day.
Allison on a 5.10b in the Maple Corridor.
We climbed a 5.11b and 5.10c (we think!) on this wall.
Later in the day we went to climb the two-pitch route, “Grecian Highway”. The first pitch is, again, a full 60m and mostly easy 5.6ish stuff. The second pitch, however, was awesome, exposed 5.9 jug pulling!
The view up the fantastic 80-foot pitch.
It's pretty ridiculous how much rock there is in the canyon!
Second pitch action on “Grecian Highway.” Great climbing on a nice partial arete.
All smiles at the top of the route.
Later in the day we did some bushwacking to climb the two-pitch “Exit Wounds”, 5.9+. The bushwacking kind of sucked but the route made it worth it! Turns out we were likely the second party ever to ascend the route that was established in Aug. 2006 by Jason Stevens and his friend Jared.
Allison starting up the first pitch which was about 100' and about 16 bolts.
The steep middle section of the first pitch was a blast!
At the top of the second pitch climbers step or fall across “The Gap of Flatulence” and move the belay around to the backside of the huge, overhanging summit block called “The Haji”.
Stepping across. Much easier for me, harder and more committing for Allison.
Looking up the juggy, 5.9+ summit pitch. It was still a little dirty and loose but was a great pitch!
Our shadows from on top of The Haji as we ready to rap.
Rappelling down from the summit block.
Great camping and nice people made hanging out really enjoyable.