We drove from the Black Canyon to RMNP and were able to obtain a bivy permit for the Mills Glacier area that night. The lady in the office said only one other party was bivying in the park that night. We were encouraged.
A large fire had started that morning over by Gold Hill. Apparently some stlructures were burned.
5 miles or so of trail to our bivy site
We were bivying above Chasm Lake
First view of the Diamond
Chasm Lake and the Diamond
We bivied at "The Hilton" boulder. Multiple rooms and a water source just outside the cave made it very luxurious.
Neither of us slept very well, still, so the alarm at 5am was just fine.
Sunrise glow over eastern Colorado
The Diamond on our approach
A random shoe tied to a fixed line at the bottom of the North Chimney
We soloed the North Chimney and ended up on slabs in the right side of the chimney. It turns out this is not recommended over the more standard and ledgy left side
View up the North Chimney as the sun first hits the wall
Broadway Ledge and the start of the roped climbing
Looking up the Casual Route. We drew rocks and Daniel got first lead.
P3 is a leftward traverse on 5.7 face climbining protected by only a few pins and small gear.
We're headed for that corner system above
Daniel heading up P5, a great 5.8+ corner. It was rather chilly in here since this area saw no sun at all throughout the day
I led a short P5 in hopes of putting us close enough below the squeeze chimney on the crux pitch so that Daniel could anchor above the chimney, lower the rope and pull up the pack. We did this in the Black on Journey Home and it worked out well. It did not work out here, though.
Daniel on the crux pitch and headed into the squeeze chimney. There was ice and dripping water in the back of the squeeze chimney and as he led through it I kept seeing chunks of ice come out of the chimney. He sent it in fine style.
At the Table Ledge belay
A 5.8ish traverse pitch on Table Ledge got us to the unroping point
On the summit. A perfect day with no crowds. Only one other party was on the Diamond, on Ariana, so we had the route to ourselves.
Ah, that's why they call it Camel Gully
Descending back to our bivy site
The smoke from the fire moved in strong as we descended back to the car
And back! We went to Estes Park and stayed at the AAC hut building at Colorado Mountain School to get our first shower in five days.