Mount Wilson at sunrise on Saturday, April 7th. The “Inti Watana” route climbs near the impressive Resolution Arete in the middle-right portion of the photo.
The approach takes about 2 hours and involves some good route-finding and 4th class scrambling.
Bill scrambling in the White Rot Gully.
Hmmm...are you sure this is the right way? Yes, it was. We didn't have any trouble finding the base of the route.
Bill starting up the first pitch, 5.9, of Inti Wantana. The first pitch has some mossy patches surrounding the climbing but wasn't as bad as I've heard other says. It's all bolts for protection on smooth face climbing.
We were surprised to see one other party on the route already given the approach. Later in the day, another party arrived too.
Bill still working the first pitch. The crux came early on the pitch around bolts 2 and 3.
Looking down the second (crux) pitch. The line follows a great crack up a dark, smooth face. It's almost all bolts but a .5 camalot at the crux gives some added security.
Bill pulling through the crux moves. I left the rack with him for this pitch and only took the couple of cams and small nuts I thought I might need. So B did awesome to pull through this pitch with the pack AND the rack.
Bill leading pitch 3. An easy and fun face pitch with mostly bolts.
Following the easy and enjoyable third pitch.
Following pitch 4. This involved a couple of bolts on face down low before climbing a nice vertical crack.
Following the fourth pitch. This pitch involved a couple of bolts on face climbing down low before going into a nice vertical crack.
Leading pitch 5. The harder moves were right out of the belay getting into a steep but featured crack that split a smooth varnished face. Fun fun!
Following pitch 5.
Following pitch 6. The other party had arrived behind us by now. Pitch 6 was rumored to have 9 bolts or so but only had three. It was very enjoyable climbing in recessed light brown areas with varnised faces next to it. The varnished rock edges offered super positive holds.
The top of pitch 6 is a very comfortable belay ledge. The lower belays were all semi-hanging and somewhat painful. Here we made the most of the nice ledge and waited a while for the party ahead of us.
Bill starting up pitch 7, the “S Crack” pitch.
Bill starting up pitch 7, the “S Crack” pitch. Fun and nice crack for protection.
Following the “S Crack” pitch 7.
Following pitch 8--A fun bolted face climbing pitch.
Bill getting ready to pull the roof that starts out pitch 9. It's bolted well and the jugs to pull the roof are huge!
Up and over the roof
Following pitch 10. The last three pitches of this climb are amazing! Generously bolted face climbing on awesomely positive edges. It's rated 5.9 but feels easier!
Leading the amazingly steep but positive pitch 10.
Did I mention the last few pitches are STEEP! Wha-hoo!
Getting ready to top out...
Looking down from the top and letting the feet finally breathe a bit.
All the belays on the route are bolted but webbing and cord are used for the rappel stations. I didn't realize this otherwise I would have taken extra webbing and replaced a few. Many of the stations are quite faded looking.
Back at the trailhead for a little over 11 hours car to car.