After crazy delays in Dallas on Friday and spending the night there with Lee's uncle, Weldon, we finally flew out Saturday morning (were were supposed to get to New Paltz on Friday night) and made a beeline to the Gunks Saturday evening arriving around 6:00pm. We went straight to the Near Trapps for a route or two and got on Broken Sling, 5.8+. One pitch.
Lee following Broken Sling
The bouldery roof/corner start to Broken Sling
Then we had time to squeeze in one more route, Disneyland, a 5.6.
Very fun edging out over a huge roof on the low part of Disneyland
Getting dark and blurring the photos
We managed the two routes that first evening before meeting up with George's parents and their friends at the Guilded Otter brew pub in New Paltz
Sunday morning we headed straight to the McCarthy wall
Lee and I headed up Something Interesting, 5.7+. This is nearing the top of P1
This is the impressive corner on P2 of Something Interesting
Looking down P2 of Something Interesting. It started out with an steep bit of climbing to get above a big roof and then a foot traverse back left over the big roof with plenty of air. Something we'd get a lot of in the Gunks it turns out.
George past the crux of P1 of MF
This is a belayer's eye view of The Dangler, a 5.10a roof with loads of air. Apparently it's a very classic photo op from the belay ledge up there
Lee seconding the traverse on P1 of Birdie Party. I would later attempt the crux roof above but get shutdown finally giving up and moving over to the roof on P2 of MF instead
Dexter, George's dad, leading P1 of Birdie Party.
The Trapps area has this carriage road running along the base of the entire wall making access easy
Lee on lead on one of his first ever gear leads a 5.2+, yes, 5.2+ exists, Easy V
Bivy gear for some party
Looking up at the crazy roof section of P2 of CCK
Pulling the last roof, 5.8+, of the CCK Direct. Great hand jams.
Up on top of The Trapps
That's the buttress of the Gunks most famous route, High Exposure. The GT ledge there is a popular and cozy place to hang out while watching the leader get blown away by wild exposure on the upper pitch
Lee on lead of P2 of High Exposure
Getting comfy while watching the second of the climbing party ahead of us struggle for at least 20 minutes trying to make the crux 5.6 move on P2 of High Exposure. That was OK, though, the weather and location was amazing
Looking down on our great group chillin on the ledge beneath P2 of High E
Lee following P2 of High Exposure.
George on the same pitch. The most badass 5.6 anywhere
Lots of Evolv Defy shoes
Caylan following P2 of High Exposure. Not bad for his second day ever outside!
....and toting a Nikon D90 DSLR
Dex on P2 of High E
Besty and I climbed a 5.8+ called Yellow Belly
The crux roof of the route
Looking up the clean, stellar face of Birdland, 5.7+ Very thin and sequential climbing. It was fantastic.
Chillin at the base of Transcontinental
In the hot afternoon heat George braved the sweat and cruised up P1 of The Son of O, 5.8+
Reptiles like it hot. He was in heaven.
Looking down P2 of The Son of O
Lee following P1 of Drunkard's Delight, 5.7+
Now Lee gets aggro and heads into his first roof lead, P2 of Drunkard's Delight
Checking out the exit jugs...
And getting horizontal!
He cruised it and now for the upper face climbing with a great view
Dex following P2 of Drunkard's
Well, OK, a couple more pitches...George led Nosedive, 5.10, the right crack here, and I led Retribution, 5.10, the left crack (with Dex on it). Both were tough and committing and very cool
Bonnie's Roof! 5.8+. The first pitch goes all the way up to below that final big ceiling. P2 then traverses out left with crazy exposure to the arete. Wild fun!
Lee getting in one final lead for the trip, Ursila, a 5.5 just right of Bonnie's Roof
George and I then headed up Carbs and Caffiene, a 5.11-, on the Yellow Wall. Steep, tough roof climbing. It started to rain but under the huge roofs of this route stayed dry
OK, P1 done, time for George to lead P2, a thuggy, super airy roof
I had a comfy hanging belay below a giant roof. Dry and happy
The pitch heads left and then up over the roof to a squeezed position under the biggest roof. This was all I could see of George while he was on it.
Psyched! Wild hanging belay position. George kindly left a runner hanging in case I swung off the pitch early and needed to yard up to get back on
One last pitch for the trip, Ant's Line, 5.9, a sustained laybacking corner route. Very fun and classic. And dry.
Pulling through the roof crux of Ant's Line