At the “trailhead”. A dirt road that leads to the “Top of the World” campground. The road has been closed since the Hayman Fire so Steve and Chris brought along mountain bikes for us to use for the four mile approach.
Trouble arose 100 yards into the ride---Chris had a flat. It was just a slow leak so some quick pump action did the trick.
Steve borrowed his wife's pink mountain bike. However we couldn't give him any shit because he schooled us on the biking.
Cranking away on the approach
A little bit of single track for the last 3/4 mile or so to the rocks
First view of Chair Rocks. We climbed the Tombstone, the rock on the left. The Knight is on the right.
First view of the route. It's called the Fender Route and goes at 5.10a/b off-width (which, to inexperienced OW climbers like me translates to hard 5.9 C1 climbing.
Beautiful face to the right of the we are climbing
Racked up with the big dogs--Three #3s, Three #4s, an old #5, and a new #5 along with some smaller gear I didn't need. Although the .75 link cam was useful for the belay at the top of P1.
Starting up the route. The first 20 feet was perfect hand and foot jamming. Unfortunately that ended quickly and went to flaring, awkward OW.
The flake out left was nice but also ended all too early.
Doing any and all moves necessary to avoid actually getting into the wide crack
After some mandatory OW moves a nice rail on the right greets us.
Big stemming because I can
About to finish up with the difficulties of the first pitch. An ugly-ass lead with a bit of clean aiding.
At the nice ledge at the top of P1. A short but stout friction second pitch goes at 5.9 from the ledge to the summit.
Despite taping my ankles, I still ended up bloodied. This South Platte granite is very coarse and abrasive.
I was able to reach the first 1/4“ bolt on the second pitch to serve as part of my anchor for P1
Chris killed it on the first pitch climbing it all free and with only one hang. Mad props.
And here comes Steve!
Chris took the lead for the second pitch. Two 1/4“ bolts protect the cruxy moves on this 5.9 slab section. Tough stuff with an awkward mantle-like move to top out
Steve and Chris on the summit. I believe the summit is 8,020'. It's a Jefferson County ranked highpoint of which there are 98?. This was Steve's 85th? of the JeffCo HPs and his 241st summit of the year. Damn.
View of The Bishop I believe
Steve and I enjoying a super fine day on the summit.
Chris and Steve. Yeah!
Steve and I rapped down and left Chris up there for this excellent shot
A single 70m will get you down but we climbed on double 60s so definitely no worries. We added some new 1“ tubular webbing to the two pieces of cord and rap rings that serve as the rappel anchor.
The Tombstone and The Knight