On day six of our week long Colorado climbing trip, Daniel and I headed to Eldorado Canyon near Boulder. It was windy and cold when we arrived at the parking lot at 6:15am. We sat it out for a bit to let things warm up and then headedo out
We headed up to the classic 5.9+ route, Yellow Spur
We drew stones and yet again, Daniel got first lead. This first pitch starts out with this 5.9 roof move
The first pitch is short due to the traversing of the roof move. I then linked pitches 2 and 3 in one long 180' pitch
Daniel heading into the awkward slot on the normal pitch 3
Daniel's next pitch, P4, went up a really nice corner with a super fun hand traverse out right around the roof up there
Moving around the roof on the hand traverse
My tape gloves had served me well on this trip holding up after two routes in the Black, the Casual Route and a day at Lumpy Ridge
Daniel up on the "pedestal belay" at the top of P4. A nice belay stance right on the exposed arete.
This is that cool hand traverse section on P4
Pitch 5, the money pitch of the route, follows fixed pins up the tricky and very exposed arete. Super fantastic climbing.
One more short 5.6R pitch on the arete to the summit of T1 (Tower One)
From the summit it's a fun and secure hand traverse left to the notch where we would unrope and begin the descent
A view down the exposed arete from just below the summit of T1. Fantastic position
We utilized the Chockstone rappel to the Vertigo rappels to get down in three 30m raps
It was hot in the sun and most shaded area was the north face of the Bastille. With this in mind we set out for another Eldo classic, Outer Space, 5.10. It goes up the very chalked-up holds directly to the summit
This photo shows the two pitches of Outer Space. The first pitch is the very chalked-up corner just above the direct center of the photo. The second pitch traverses out left for an immediate huge dose of exposure following the flake system in upper center
Daniel had never been on the classic Bastille Crack, 5.7, so he got first lead. He linked the two pitches of the Bastille to put us at the base of Outer Space
I grunted and breathed hard on my send of the first pitch of Outer Space. This just shows the top out from the dihedral to the big, comfy ledge
From the big ledge, Daniel stepped out left into the crazy exposure zone of pitch 2
We topped out on the Bastille around 3:45pm and enjoyed the walk off
Once back at the base of the Bastille we spied a demonstration of THE most classic way NOT to lead belay. The unanchored belayer would lift his rope for cars to drive under as they passed by.
We still had some go juice and time left so we headed up the 5.9 West Buttress of the Bastille
The crux of P1 is a reachy move past two fixed pins. Hard for Daniel, easy for me. Funny he ended up with the lead.
Getting some redundancy in with the purple and green C3s
One last check of the small cams before gunning past them
P2 was a single bolt protected off width crack. After toying with the idea of getting in there, I employed some "OW avoidance" and moved right to the arete and up. I didn't place any gear for the rest of the pitch so that Daniel could enjoy the OW
He actually looks like he's having fun