The Tofana di Rozes from our hotel room deck in Cortina
We went to climb the South Face Buttress #1 (South Arete). It's the “little” arete on the far right of the face (below the tower on the skyline)
Close up of South Arete
The Cinque Torri where we climbed the previous day
Looking up the route from near the base
We arrive late (8am) to find three groups on the route already. They looked like they were moving well so we started up but after I climbed the first pitch I realized we were catching them. Instead of sitting at belays all day, frustrated, I downclimbed the first pitch and we moved on vowing to start earlier the next day.
Looking down from the top of the first pitch before I downclimbed.
The south face is BIG
I need a good map to figure out what this is the southwest
We weren't too upset when the clouds rolled in just as we descended.
The weather was great and it was a nice hike despite the fact we did not climb.
Back at the Rifigio Dibona parking area
So we thought we'd take another hike and check out the 6 pitch, 5.4 route on Hexenstein (the name alone attracted us to it.)
Looking down on Falzarego Pass. Cortina is on the far side of this pass. Tofana di Rozes is the big peak in upper left.
But apparently everyone in Europe climbs and they were all on this route. We counted no less than 6 groups and none of them even appeared to be moving.
We walked past this very easy sport climbing wall. Super crowded. But cool to see all the families out there climbing together.
OK, third choice, back to Cinque Torri. We hoped to get on the five pitch 5.8 route called Via Miriam on Torre Grande but, like everything else, it was loaded with parties.
Mabye next time we'll bivy at th base like these guys.
It's not uncommon for anchors to consist of one giant, beefy cemented peg and ring.
Rif. Scoiattoli from Torre Grande's west summit
Allison following the second pitch of “via delle Guide”, 5.5
The route was super easy and quite loose but the summit makes it worth it. On top of Torre Grande's west summit (2,350m)
Clever rappel anchors
Some nice German climbers let us rap on their ropes
Great view of the Cinque Torri from the deck of the Rif. Scoiattoli
The route we just climbed goes up the face straight ahead at the top of the trail.
I plan to send a copy of this photo to Sawatch Backcountry in Leadville.
Walking around Cortina in the evening
That's right! Bacon and potato pizza.
OK, so we got up much earlier Thursday to go get on the South Arete route on Tofana di Rozes
Awesome morning clouds in the valley with Croda del Lago mountains in the background.
The approach to the climb is about 40 minutes
At the top of our first pitch. No one else on the route today while we were climbing it.
Looking down from top of P1
After five pitches we get on the arete proper for some steep, super exposed climbing.
Looking down the arete from the top of pitch 6
More superb arete climbing
At the top of pitch 8 was a huge terrace
From here the route continues up the arete
Across the basin we noticed people on the via ferrata on the ridge. Can you see them?
On the last pitch
This is where we topped out on the route. It took us a bit over 5 hours to climb the route. Now to enjoy a nice hike down.
Climbers on the ladder on the via ferrata across the way
The descent trail contours around a big face and gives some great exposure
The now defunct Rifugio Cantore
We drove into Canazei and after stopping at a few hotels, we found one with a room available for the next two nights. Thats right...three stars baby.
View of the surrounding peaks in Canazei
We found a decent market and purchased sandwich makings for dinner as eating out gets very expensive around here.
I have a soft side.