And so... It begins! hood, wings, valance removed to facilitate an easier engine removal.
shift lever removed
as testament to how much i hate bleeding hydraulics... removed the clutch slave first. yay for flexible hose!
parts are being sorted and cataloged
Thanks to buddy, Travis, powdercoating! bumper brackets, tow loops, alternator brackets... surely more to come!
small garage, so engine stand is parked with the block hovering over the bay
it's already pretty crowded with the engine crane in the corner of the garage
talk about well timed... one of my neighbors discarded a work bench this weekend. I'm not above dumpster diving. 8' by 16" great place to lay out parts and work.
with the engine out, i'll finish the paint job I started last year.
valve cover off, heater tap off, thermostat housing removed.. along with studs. preparing for head removal
valve cover, water pump, thermo housing. I will be replacing the pump and thermostat of course. just doesn;t make sense not to.
push rods removed and numbered...
valves... check out the weird crust on the exhaust valves
cylinder 1 valves
cylinder 2 valves
head gasket... actually not in terrible shape
top of pistons
crank nut, timing cover and cam shaft nut removed.
timing cover and pulley
next step, flipped the engine over and removed the sump and oil strainer... lovely oily engine bits
just a shot to show how the oil strainer went in. Aside from being very oily (duh) the strainer and tube is very clean...
the distributor drive retainer broke when i went to unbolt it. it's just a little piece, but i guess i should replace the retainer anyway.
engine on the workbench. I used brute muscle to get it up here... the engine stand is in the way of removing the oil pump. argh
since the A series engine has that rear-mounted oil pump, the engine stand has to come off. NOW i understand why people fabricate side mount adaptors for this engine! after the pump came off i put it BACK on the stand to take the pistons out
oil pump removed... this is the star drive pump. Make sure to save that star drive, apparently they are no longer available!
cam shaft removed
cam followers removed. there is some scarring on many of them. I am lining things up on the bench such that the wall is the front of the engine and they are in order going back.
i found it interesting that there are no lock tabs on the con rod caps... i have only seen rebuild videos of B series engines, but they have lock tabs... I don't know if the A series should have them or not, will research.
none of the con rods have lock tabs
interestingly, my conrods are also neatly stamped with matching numbers... which also correspond correctly with their cylinders.
con rod bearings show definite wear... hope this doesn't mean i have to have the crank majorly ground
piston 3 con rod bearing
piston 4 bearing
There comes a point of no return on a project... I think I'm there.
ready to unscrew the mains and pull the crankshaft!
main caps with bearings
other side of the bearings
crank shaft removed, there are lines marked on each journal, the crank will need to be turned but hopefully not much will need to be taken off
bare block at last!
all the block parts lined up
now I have to take apart the head..
made myself a valve box to keep track of all the parts related to the valves and keep them in order. Many will be replaced, maybe all. but it seemed like a good idea to me, just in case. Too much organization? there's no such thing
two of the valves are crusted up like this. I'm told this indicates cylinders that were running "wet" because the valve and ring seals were starting to fail.
all valve related components, including cam follower boxed to stay in order. :)
motor mounts powdercoated..
lower half of engine bay cleaned, masked and primered
another view. front cross member
between the painted engine bay and the POR15 hardnose painted underside... this area is going to get so much more attractive soon
I'm not going to try to get all the way down the tunnel, but i'm going as far as the transmission cross member
realized the pilot bushing is still in place in the crankshaft. I'm not sure how to proceed to get it out... tried the grease packing trick, but no dice so far
thanks to e-bay, I have a new distributor drive retainer, it's cleaned up, but i still need to get the traces of orange paint off and repaint it.
yay, new paint on the back of the valance. I should have bought extra sprayer units, (aerosol) mine ran out of juice before i finished, and i still had paint mixed. I did some application with the brush, since the paint would just go to waste otherwise. the final coats will be sprayed when i get re-supplied.
engine bay, getting there. this too will need a couple additional coats when the new paint sprayers arrive via post.
I'm not even going to try to get all the way into the tunnel, but i did go pretty far back. no one will see this paint... but I will know it's there.
next batch of parts back from powdercoating with Travis. heatshield, fuel line clips, fuel pump blanking plate and distributor drive retainer (just the part outside the engine has been coated)
valance panel painted
the area behind the grill has been repainted satin black. Not the best finish, but it's good enough for me.
some spot retouching with a brush for the spots behind the steering arms.
you've probably figured out by now that i get carried away with "might as wells" especially if they can be painted with something shiny. Painting the steering rack. gloss black
the only little bit of metal in the engine area that isn't painted now is the trianges where the metal brake lines join to the rubber hoses
eventually the brake balance valve and its attached warning switch will get cleaned up/polished/refurbished. Still debating if I will do that this year or leave it for a later brake overhaul.
shiny happy steering rack!
a different angle on the engine bay... very different from the mess i pulled the engine out of
steering rack mounts powdercoated semi gloss black
steering column re-secured. i de-rusted the hardware and re-placed (meaning I put it back, not that I got a new one) the original shim on the passenger side, powdercoated mounts, painted rack... yeah pretty much done here.
and tomorrow I'm taking the engine to the machine shop. I'm actually kind of nervous/excited about this! block, head, crank, pistons/rods... wonder if they need the main caps? hmmm
starting the re-install for engine bay components...
latest batch of powdercoated parts, braces for splash panels, thermostat cover, overflow bottle bracket, oil pan
Before picture of the front plate... it's going to spend some time in Travis's parts washer.
with its friend the timing cover. the oil separation gauze (steel wool) has been removed from the oil separator cannister.
blasted... ready for powdercoating.
resurfaced flywheel back from the machine shop
cleaned and ground crankshaft
the shop nicely marked my crank with my name. the 010 indicates that it is .010 undersized.
a shot of the shiny journals and the cleanest you will ever see the rear scroll seal on an A series crank
The rods back, you can see the markings engraved in the caps, 1-2-3-4. I seem to be missing a rod bolt nut...
rods resized, and cleaned
block, clean, i had no idea those markings were so clear!
Front face of engine... yes it's upside down.
rear face, you can see the frost plugs are in.
a nice view of the interior of the engine.
distributor side of the block
top deck of the block. you may not be able to make it out in the picture, but there are original witness marks that indicate the block has never needed to be decked.
Cylinders were bored out to +40, nice cross hatching.
New cam bearings...
bottom of the cylinder head
a shot of the hardened valve seats
top of the head... so very very clean!
cleanest i have ever seen the water jacket
all the major pieces lined up on a clean workbench waiting to go back together
paint filled in with por15 hardnose paint
timing plate and timing cover back from powdercoating
beginning repainting of engine block, first primer coat of Por15
Por15/d cylinder head
My parts kit arrived! I ordered all my new parts through Hap Waldrop at Acme Speedshop.
APT 266 cam, (in the box) should move the power band of the engine up a bit without compromising lady-like behavior in the city traffic. :)
old cam on the left, new cam on the right
new water pump, and old water pump
old rocker set up and new rocker shaft
old main bearings, old thrust washers, new main bearings..
rods, new rod bearings and new rod nuts (re-using old bolts)
New County pistons! +40
engine painted and ready to reassemble
cylinder head painted
timing kit, adjustable cam sprocket, duplex chain, and crank shaft sprocket
new oil pump
new valves, valve springs, cam thrust plate
gasket sets, top and bottom
new cam lifters
essentially, this is an exploded view of my engine
somehow this will all come together and make a fun powerful engine. :)
new old stock clutch kit, e-bay score
rods and pistons fitted together
distributor clamp and intake manifold powdercoated silver... my new favorite powercoat color :)
old rocker assembly and new shaft..
rocker parts removed and laid out in order...
old shaft and new shaft with rockers assembled
ready to install Camshaft: Block Upside down, new lifters, cam lube (in little plastic tub), cam shaft, oil can for extra slipperyness.
new slot drive oil pump ready to install
gasket, and oil pump bolts & lock washers (stored meanwhile in "baggie 27"... I have a whole catalog set up to track where all the hardware has been kept.)
new main bearings.
ready to install crankshaft... torque wrench, crank, mains, bolts, bearings...
center main, thrust washers just installed.
checked clearances with plastigauge. well in spec.
bearings all in and main caps torqued down to 60 ft/lbs
also had to reinstate the engine stand as it is impossible to torque the bolts without the engine bolted to something stable.
ready to check the ring gaps. Feeler gauges, and a file... just in case.
checking the gap on the second ring... cylinder 1
Rebuilt transmission picked up from transmission shop; They replaced all the bearings and seals and inspected it inside. should be good for another 100k miles
nice that they got it so clean too
pistons, rings, bearings, rod nuts ready to install. piston ring pliers and torque wrench ready
piston 1 installed
pistons 1-3 installed... oiling the cylinders before installing the pistons is basically like pouring oil onto the floor... but thats the best way to do it.
rings installed to piston 4
piston ring compressor in place, about to start tapping piston 4 down into the bore.
All set to install the front plate. Plate, Gasket, RTV (just a thin smear, please), hardware, (erstwile stored in Baggie 27) new cam thrust plate (in plastic, next to the old cam thrust plate), allen keys, wrenches. Front plate has been powdercoated
plate installed. I've made a mental note to come back with black paint and gussy up the bolts that will show.
I just wanted a last picture of the inside of the block before it gets all buttoned up.
an interesting view of piston 2 at the bottom of its stroke
preparing to install the oilpan (which has been powdercoated). The oil strainer which is being reinstalled first has been stored in box 13. The hardware for both the sump and the strainer is in baggie 26. That inventory system has been invaluable!
pieces laid out, gaskets (rubber end seals rather than cork in the Payen gasket sets) strainer, hardware, wrenches. I find the 1/4 drive socket wrench on the extension is the best for working on the sump bolts. recommended torque on the sump bolts is 6 ft/lbs.
oil pick up installed
sump in place
Next I address an issue left over from the Datsun 5 speed conversion. When grinding the clearance for the oil pump cover, we actually went through the bell housing in a spot. It's very thin once you take out the 5/16 required.
previously I had just covered this gap with RTV sealant, this time it's JB weld to make a permanent repair. (might as well!)
engine now right way up. No reason not to keep it this way now.
Another silly thing that will make me happy... even though no one else will ever notice it. I've painted the Datsun transmission in the same Blue as Datsun used for engines. (ok, it's really GM blue, but it's the closest that is available without more effort than it merits)
original timing gears used for rough timing. the yellow tape marks about where the key on the cam shaft should be pointed
All the timing bits laid out. gears both old and new, new lock tabs, new oil thrower, new chain, dial indicator, degree wheel
just an interesting comparison shot of the original cam gear and the new adjustable gear.
original shims on crankshaft
original crankshaft shims
new harmonic balancer/ pulley. I was thinking about leaving it bare steel, but the spots of surface rust (just shelf wear) convinced me to paint it.
so i went with metalic blue rustoleum. Something to contrast :)
finding the cam timing. TDC on cylinder one to start with
#1 intake lobe should have .064" lift at TDC
ready to close up the front of the engine.. big socket, torque wrench, smaller sockets for the timing cover bolts.
timing cover, new oil seal, gasket, old hardware (stored in baggie 25) plus new hardware, I matched the original stuff with new grade 5 hardware.
oil thrower in place, it has an F for Front on it, but if that's missing, just remember the step is faced out. Also, the locktab has been bent up on the cam gear.
cover in place with damper and original crank nut. I had wanted to install the new bolt i bought, but I couldn't get the threads to catch without cross threading. So threadlock and correct torque will have to do it.
I will definitly take a lick of paint to the crank bolt, since I had to use the original. It's not pretty enough, and yes that will nag at me. One bolt on the timing cover has been left loose because I'm painting the timing pointer that will be secured here.
new distributor drive retainer (new to me anyway), and old retainer, dist. drive and distributor to help check its alignment.
Distributor drive in place. Do this carefully, i lost my grip on mine and had to take the sump off to retrieve it.
new rubber O-ring on the retainer
new dipstick tube, old dipstick tube
dist. retainer installed with new bolt, new oil dipstick tube installed.
timing pointer (from advanced distributors kit) painted and installed, carefully bent to point at the TDC mark I made.
Starting head assembly. New valves, new springs, (intake valves in plastic, exhaust valves in paper wrappers), original valve caps and retainers cleaned and ready to go. Tools: grinding paste, grinding tool valve spring compressor.
carefully applying grinding past to the valve seating face, as Dr. Doolin says: "don't get this stuff all over the place, it's very abrasive"
i did all the exhaust valves (which were barely big enough for the grinding tool to grip) first. the exhaust seat on the center left has been done, the other valve seats in view have not. see the difference?
valve components ready to go back in. valve seals (the 1275 uses the cap style seal. Originally it would only have been on the intake valve guides, but the payen head gasket kit includes all 8...) valves, springs, spring seats, spring caps, collets.
spring seats placed.
valve seals in place. As I said, i'm using all 8, even though it isn't original. No harm in a little better sealing.
valves fully assembled. And I only had to hunt for escaped springs or spring caps 3 times when the compressor slipped and flung bits around the garage. Glad I have a small garage.
bottom view of valves
Getting down to the little bits. baggies 5, 16, 28,29 came out to start "dressing the engine"
Driver's side of the engine "naked" and ready to be "dressed"
fuel pump blanking plate, powdercoated semi gloss black, with hardware and gasket
blanking plate installed, along with water jacket plug
oil pressure relief valve. plunger, spring (old and new spring), plug.
dilema in replacing the hardware securing the oil filter mount. In the center is the original bolt. On either side are the available replacements from the hardware store. so, do i go longer or shorter? I had to test fit to see what the depth would allow.
alternator support brackets with new and old hardware.
passenger side of the engine dressed with oil pressure relief, gauge take off, oil filter housing, and alternator bracket installed.
"dressing the head" water temp sensor adapter and plugs for the air rail ports
heater tap valve polished and re-clear coated. valve, base plate, gaskets, hardware (both old and new, replacing studs and nuts with set bolts). also the bracket for the carburetor vent line which has been powder coated silver
New waterpump. High temp aluminum engine paint. It may be silly to paint an aluminum part with aluminum colored paint, but this way it will hopefully stay looking pretty longer. Gasket and new hardware... looking at the rust on the old hardware, it's a no brainer
water pump installed with new hardware
transmission prepared to install, mount bolted on, speedo cable installed
next job: install the head! torque wrench, head gasket, stud set, cylinder head.
4 different sizes of studs in A series head.. plus ARP's special thread lube
I cleaned the deck very carefully before and after putting the studs in
Payen head gasket placed. the part marked "Top" goes up ;)
ready or not, here comes the head!
head carefully lowered onto the studs, then thread lube applied to the tops
Rocker shaft installed
Head torqued. In three even stages to 45 ft/lbs as specified by ARP.
yup, thats an engine. You can't tell, but the rocker clearances have been set.
engine crane at the ready...
hardest part of the day was getting the bearing contact pad out of the new clutch pressure plate. It has 18 spring leafs, the previous pressure plate had 12.
engine stand removed, supported by valve cover studs
rivergate adaptor plate ready to go back in. I didn't break the seal on the oil plate or the oil pump cover, original silicone sealant is in place.
reinstalled to the engine. The rivergate kit eliminates the rear gasket and replaces it with silicone sealant. Original kit came with pretty silver colored silicone... but I have black on hand so that will do it.
flywheel installed with a new lock tab ring
reattached to the transmission finally!
finally back in!
back in place
a little bit of paint damage on the front cross member and steering rack, it's pretty much inevitable
by now you know, i paint things that don't need paint. It's a sickness.... Drive shaft done in red rustoleum
radiator back in. it was flushed and soaked overnight with CLR (calcium, lime, & rust remover) to be safe.
this funny looking hose will eventually be for the oil cooler again. I have been advised that I shouldn't run the oil cooler until after the initial break in run, so it isn't filled with any nasty by products of bedding in the rings. rather than put in the original feed line and then take it out again later, i just got a double male plumbing fitting and attached the two hoses to each other. Their other ends are still in the front splash panel visible on the right.
putting the nose back on.. starting to look like a car again!
bumper brackets and tow loops remounted with new bolts and washers
Fender mounting hardware old and new
Fenders back on!
new thermostat installed, upper radiator hoses and valve cover installed..
Just waiting on the exhaust manifold (it's at a buddy's house waiting for refinishing)
front exhaust pipe hanger, the "build your own" version. this replaced the one piece bracket that should have been (but wasn't) on the original transmission. the Datsun transmission is about an inch or so narrower here.
OEM style middle exhaust hanger installed.
exhaust manifold, powder coated in high temp velvet black
exhaust reassembled with band clamps from moss, helps give 1. a neater appearance and 2. a touch more clearance from the floor pan
exhaust manifold fitted
exhaust going back, the proper hangers hold it very firmly and actually push it down just slightly. This is great because i had been getting noise from it vibrating against the floorpan.
add the intake...
heat shield, carbs, hoses... OMG I could start the engine this week!