2013-09-23 - The South Lake Reservoir was shockingly empty when Steph Abegg and I passed by at the end of June. There was still some water left in it, but it was significantly lower than when I had last seen it.
Hurd Peak seen from Long Lake.
Enticing buttress on Hurd Peak.
North Buttress of Mt Goode. It snowed the day before - pretty early for the season!
Jigsaw Pass seen from Bishop Pass.
Bishop Pass. 2 hrs 10 minutes in. Not bad with overnight packs and trad gear!
Lake in Dusy Basin beneath Isosceles Peak (right). Thunderbolt Pass is on the left.
Iscosceles Peak. The left summit is the high summit, but the right summit is above the feature by which the peak is named.
Mt Winchell and the Shark's Fin (right).
Thunderbolt Peak and North Palisade seen from Dusy Basin.
Jared in Dusy Basin.
Nearing our campsite, looking out toward Mt Giraud. 3:15 since leaving the TH.
Winchell and Thunderbolt seen from our campsite. The twin-summitted peak in between is the Shark's Fin.
Mt Winchell seen from Dusy Basin.
Isosceles Peak seen from camp.
Isosceles Peak seen from camp. The West Face route that we would climb ascends the continuous, dark crack, in the center of the face.
Lakside campsite in Dusy Basin.
Approaching the West Face of Isosceles Peak. This is steeper than it looks.
Jared and Mt Agassiz.
Nearing the start of the West Face of Isosceles Peak.
Cool overhanging buttress and cracks on the West Face of Isosceles Peak.
At the base of the West Face route. We soloed some cl. 4+ terrain up to the base of the chimney to start P1.
Looking up the steep W Face. The flare capped by a roof had me concerned, and turned out to be the crux of the route.
Starting up the chimney.
Higher in the P1 chimney. This chimney had good rock on the outside, but mungy, loose, lichen-covered rock dripping with water on the inside.
After the chimney on P1, I was faced with some runout slab climbing made more interesting with the snowcover (left). I belayed on a ledge in the shade just to the left of the crux flare.
Looking down P1
The P2 crux flare looks steep to start!
Looking up the P2 crux flare. Break out that #6 cam and struggle! About halfway up it finally opens up enough to slide inside and climb as a squeeze chimney. Climbing out left of the roof was memorable.
Looking down the P2 flare once I reached the squeeze section. Whew!
Reaching the roof. I needed to step left to the ledge on the left (above the loose flake), but this turned out to be trickier than it first appeared.
Looking down from the stepover.
I belayed Jared up P2 from the little alcove at the base of the OW that begins P3.
Looking down P2. The upper sections wasn't wide, but it was still somewhat burly and tricky.
The OW starting right off the belay for P3 was a lot tougher than it first appeared.
Looking down the OW for P3.
Looking up more wide for P3 if we had continued up. It was getting dark, so we needed to get off! I stepped right into blocky terrain to speed things up.
Mt Winchell seen after sunset. The W Arete that we had hoped to climb is prominent. Another time!
Looking up from the top of our P3 deviation. From here we continued up and right to intersect the SW Buttress Route.
Summit Register - New W Face Route
Summit Register - Another New W Face Route by David Wilson
Summit Register - Another New W Face Route Topo by David Wilson
2013-09-24 - Mt Winchell seen from camp.
Mt Winchell seen from camp.
The western flanks of the Palisades seen from Dusy Basin.
The jumble of aretes rising up to Starlight Peak and North Palisade.
Interesting possible route above South Lake seen from the hike down.
Interesting reservoir cragging potential alongside the trail near the South Lake Trailhead. That roof-corner looks especially enticing.