2013-07-26 - Big Sky Country, Montana. After the run-in with the Evil Kanevil motorcycle nuts in Butte, this was an interesting continuation . . .
Signs of travel.
Driving up the good part of the dirt road to the Gimli Peak trailhead. It gets much worse.
2013-07-27 - The three summit of Mt Prestley towering above the dirt road on the way to Gimli.
The three summit of Mt Prestley towering above the dirt road on the way to Gimli.
Alec and his car ready to go. The wire mesh is to keep rubber-eating porcupines from getting in and eating the tires! I think our mesh extends high enough to keep bears out, too. ;-)
Gimli Peak seen from the trailhead.
Gimli Peak seen from the trailhead. The campsites are between the two mounds of rock on the left.
Gimli first reappears after a steep hike through the trees. Almost there!
Nearing the campsites. We took a less direct way up and over the mound on the left of the snowpatch, but the more correct way is to stay to the right of the snowfield.
Gimli Peak and the camping area seen from atop the first rocky mound. The South Ridge is on the right.
Gimli Peak and its awesome S Ridge on the right.
As I neared the camp, this mountain goat trotted down the trail from the site to greet me.
He stopped about 10 feet away and would not get off of the trail. As I didn't want to provoke any charging, I waited until he would move - which he wouldn't do!
Friendly mountain goat overstaying his welcome. Let me pass!
There's something crazy in those eyes.
At last he steps off the trail and lets me pass, but this wouldn't be the last that I'd see of the mountain goats.
Gimli Peak and its awesome S Ridge on the right, seen from camp.
As we set up camp, an entire family of mountain goats trotted down from the slopes above to hang out with us. They hung around all day and the next day after we came down, sometimes hanging out, sometimes coming up to us.
Big and little mountain goat.
Mountain goats. They were more than just indifferent to our presence, they were drawn to us!
Little mountain goats at play.
Gimli Peak at sunset.
Alec settling in for the night at our sweet campsite behind a massive wind wall. Did I mention we brought up a bottle of wine to have with dinner?
Gimli Peak as the first stars began to appear.
Gimli Peak at night.
2013-07-28 - Prestley Peaks to the West.
Nisleheim Peak to the West, forming a pass next to Gimli that a well worn path passes through.
Heading towards Mt Gimli in the morning. Despite there being several parties at the campsite, we were the only ones climbing the South Ridge today!
Alec roping up at the base of the first pitch.
P1 of the S Ridge of Gimli Peak. A long, sustained and classic pitch, one of the best on the route, and in my opinion, the crux.
P1, looking at the crux, a hard undercling. I thought this was more committing and nearly as difficult as the big roof crux higher on the route.
Alec following P1.
Alec leading P2. Unfortunately this pitch eased up in a hurry and was then mostly a scramble.
Following P2, which had some interesting face climbing on horizontal dike bands.
Looking down P2. Getting some air!
Alec on the comfy belay pedestal atop P2. I stepped across onto the face to lead P3.
Looking up P3, which has a lot of thin, airy face climbing. Seeking cracks for pro and more comfortable climbing, I went too far right and around the corner, but found my way back to the ridge crest on a ledge a short ways above the 'official' ending ledge with a small tree.
Alec leading the remainder of P4, a fun but short 5.6 lieback, before the terrain eased up dramatically before the big grassy ledge.
Following class 4 terrain on P4 towards the large grassy ledge.
Wolfs Ears to the east.
Alec looking up P5, a sustained and classic 5.8 crack. As I felt bad that he had gotten the only two boring pitches of the climb, I offered this pitch to him, also thinking he was still going to lead the roof above.
Alec leading P5 as it recedes into the sky.
Prestley Peaks to the west.
Following P5, an excellent 5.8 crack!
The 'crux' roof looms above on P6. Originally rated 5.8, this route's rating was bumped to 5.10a due to this.
Alec offered me the lead, so off I went! Very easy climbing up into the roof, where I had to figure out how to make the big step left.
Mark leading the crux pitch (5.9+) of the South ridge. (by Alec LaLonde)
Alec leading P6 to finish the route. Basically cl. 4 apart from the short 5.7 step that he was on, then it eases back into class 3 and then class 2. I'd recommend halfing the rope and simul-climbing to the summit for this pitch.
The easy 'scramble' to the false summit.
The easy 'scramble' to the false summit, the main summit lies beyond. I read it was cl. 3-4 getting over there . . . but it was only cl. 2!
Asgard Peak seen from the summit of Gimli Peak.
Gladsheim Peak seen from the summit of Gimli Peak.
Wolfs Ears (right) and Mount Dag seen from the summit of Mt Gimli. As the afternoon came on, it rained all around us but never quite on us!
Panorama from the summit of Gimli Peak. Mt Prestley, Prestley NE0, Midgard Peak Asgard Peak, Gladsheim Peak.
Mt Prestley & Prestley NE0 seen from the summit of Gimli Peak. Woden Peak is behind to the right.
Midgard Peak. behind to the right are Devil's Dome (far right) and Dark Prince Peak (left of Devil's), and the summit on the left is Mt Bor. The ridgeline joining them has summits going left to right as Lucifer Peak, Tirdent Peak, Rosemary's Baby, and Mount Mephistopheles.
Alec and the large summit cairn atop Gimli Peak. I am near where the East Ridge descent route tops out.
Summit Register - Steph Abegg
Summit Regist Entry
Hello Javad! A random FB friend from Iran had request that I place his name on one of the summits I climbed. I kept forgetting to on my earlier trip with Steph, but this time I remembered!
Looking down the East Ridge as we descended. It is a little steep at the top, but only light class 4. It quickly eases to class 3 and mostly class 2 for the descent, and is very straightforward once you find the entry-exit on the summit ridge.
The imposing East Face of Gimli Peak, seen on the descent. This is home to many 5.12 climbs. The South Ridge is seen on the left, from about P4 to the top.
Rounding the tip of the South Ridge of Gimli Peak as we returned to camp.
The South Ridge of Gimli Peak.
The South Ridge of Gimli Peak (right skyline).
Gimli Peak and its striking South Ridge.
The P4 and P5 with the big roof crux on the South Ridge of Gimli Peak.
The big roof crux on the South Ridge of Gimli Peak.
Gimli Peak seen on the hike down.
The South RIdge of Gimli Peak.