P1 5.10 mungy, wet, gritty, rounded, flaring twin cracks. Nice lead, Nic!
Nic leading P2. Fairly straightforward, about 5.7-5.8. Watch the loose blocks though.
Following P2, about to break out onto the big ledge.
Following P2, breaking out onto the big ledge. You can see that we traversed right from here.
Headwall above the ledge. You can see the flaring OW/roof split by a crack on the right. That was our reference for hitting the 5.9+ traverse into the next corner system.
Nic belaying from ledge below the roof. You can see the pillar around his corner to the right. Really, if you belay here, you should stop before the corner he is in for the drag. I set up a different belay to correct that.
Traversing around the pillar. It sounds like you should climb the pillar, and then do the 5.9+ traverse from there. However, traversing around it might have a technically harder section, but it is cleaner, better protected, and more straight up.
Alternate to the pillar (which Nic zigged back to before zagging back up & right). This left flake is maybe 5.9 to 5.10a, with a thin stepover into the corner. The corner crack has a lot of loose crap (would clean up with more climbing), but it took pro well and was a lot of fun! Crux is the exit, which is a 5.10 flaring finger crack or step around with a mantel finish.
Nic atop P3. Things were going well, but about to slow down . . .
Looking up P4. It is still unclear where to go. Nic started left and stepped right (you could step right to start) to climb the center crack. He reached an impasse higher up, but it might be the way to go and very tough! He tensioned to the right crack (no go) and then to the left crack, which he climbed higher up. The finish is an OW or runout face move, and it is unclear if you can still reach the corner system from the ledge it deposits you on.
Looking up P4. It is still unclear where to go. These cracks were rounded and flaring enough that solid jams & pro were tough to come by. Nic is faced with an OW or runout roof/face move to finish, but the ledge above might be off route.
Looking up P4. It is still unclear where to go. These cracks were rounded and flaring enough that solid jams & pro were tough to come by. Nic is faced with an OW or runout roof/face move to finish, but the ledge above might be off route. Things weren't going well, it was really cold in the shade, and we were only halfway up the wall, behind schedule, and unsure if the route got easier to follow above, so I called it and we bailed.
Looking up the last rappel. (by Nic Risser)
(Video) We got inventive with how to enjoy our last rappel pull, as the rope had a lot of resistance to pulling. (by Nic Risser)
Inventive way of pulling the ropes. I'm more than halfway back to camp! (by Nic Risser)
Back at camp. It was so cold in the shade, if only we could be in the sun! Mt Morgan South is behind. (by Nic Risser)
Nic expressing his feelings to the Center Route. (by Nic Risser)
Nic expressing his feelings to the East Arete. (by Nic Risser)
Back at camp. The dark and cold made it seem like bedtime, but it looked so nice everywhere else! (by Nic Risser)
Real backpacking food, Norman Clyde-style. (by Nic Risser)
Nap time. (by Nic Risser)
Center Route - First Pitch Area with msyterious bail webbing or fixed gear? The left corner works at 5.10. I wonder if the right corner peters out at the tat?
Center Route - First Pitch Area
Center Route - High-Res photo composite of pitches 3 and higher. You traverse in at the bottom from the left.