2013-03-16 - Mt Locke, seen from the car
Checkered Demon & Mt Humphreys, seen from the car.
Mike's hydration for the day
Slowshoes and breakable crust
Slowshoes and breakable crust, getting up to my knee. Later on I would be breaking in up to my crotch.
Humphreys E Ridge, NW Face & NW Ridge
Mt Humphreys N Face
Humphreys N Side above Longley Reservoir
Final headwall before Crest
S Basin Pk from the Crest
Looking across the Crest Plateau
(Video) Wind across the Crest Plateau
South Face of Bear Creek Spire from the Crest
Merriam, Royce & Feather Peak
Sierra West Side
Humphreys from the West Side
Ominous Afternoon Clouds
Humphreys from the West at sunset. Too bad the clouds had moved in, as I was hoping for an alpenglow show!
Humphreys from the West at sunset. Too bad the clouds had moved in, as I was hoping for an alpenglow show!edit
Sierra Sunset. Getting cold now. Time to start up the stove in my snow trench!
Mt Humphreys at Night
2013-03-17 - Sunrise on Mt Humphreys from my camp on the west side.
Mt Humphreys from the West side. It's getting bright, so I'd better get climbing! I had intended to take the direct chute on the left, but the chockstone looked tricky to pass, especially with my carryover pack on. So I opted to angle right towards the dry patch and access a long, sloping series of ledges there to work back left.
Bear Creek Spire S Face
Melted out pinwheel head.
Looking NW Towards Seven Gables
Climbing up the SW Chute entry. At last the snow is getting consolidated enough for crampons.
Climbing up the SW Couloir. I found some old ski & boot tracks heading up to the N Couloir Notch, so these made the climbing more relaxed.
Looking down the SW Couloir.
Climbing up the SW Couloir. The Notch is the melted out area ahead.
Reaching the Notch
Looking up the final scramble
Looking up the scrambling section from the Notch
The upper scrambling section
Looking down from below the second crux
Piton at second crux
Final cl2-3 to the summit
Summit Register - Alex Honnold First ascent of 2012
Summit Register - Old E Arete entry
Summit Register - My first ascent of 2013
Summit Register - Tom Bennett's memorial is still here. Fortunately the vial of Jameson that I had left has been drunk.
Summit View South
Summit View South panrama
Looking NW from summit
Looking down the N Couloir of Humphreys
Looking up Mt Humphreys from Notch
Looking back at Humphreys from NW Ridge
Climbing the NW Ridge
Climbing the NW Ridge. At this point one cannot stay on the crest and keep it class 4. The most straightforward option is to descend about 200 ft to the west at traverse along until you can climb back up to the plateau (melted out section to the left). It also appears that you can drop down a similar amount traversing the east side in more exposed terrain, although the entry/exit to the plateau might be tricky.
Looking back on the NW Ridge
Elevation Profile - Humphreys SW Couloir
Topo Map - Humphreys SW Couloir
Collapsed in exhaustion after a day that lasted too long. (by Mike Dahlquist)
Burnt out undercarriage of my Subaru. (by Andrew Gillies)