2012-10-27 - donWolf waiting in line at the base of the climb. We arrived perhaps 10-15 minutes after the first party of the day. Those climbers hauled their packs on the first several pitches, so created a backup as they slowly went up. We trailed our packs on P1 and they were plenty light enough to wear on the rest of the climb.
2012-10-27 - Rachel & friend waiting in line at the base of the climb. Darlene & friend came later. Busy day on the route!
2012-10-27 - Rachel hiding in the trees.
2012-10-27 - Approach to P1, easily linked with the rest of the pitch to start from a comfier ledge.
2012-10-27 - P1 "5.9" chimney. More like 5.7-5.8.
2012-10-27 - Looking down P1. The crux was a strange 5.9 lieback-stem at the very end.
2012-10-27 - donWolf following the P1 chimney.
2012-10-27 - donWolf changing sides as the chimney chances to more of a stemming problem.
2012-10-27 - donWolf using the rarely seen 'head scum' maneuver while working out the awkward moves.
2012-10-27 - 5.9 groove on P2 (linked with P3). This was pretty fun.As the groove got deeper, feet got trickier, but you could hang on a good chickenwing while kicking the feet around.
2012-10-27 - donWolf on the 5.6R section of P4.
2012-10-27 - Following P4 (linked with P5).
2012-10-27 - Following P5 (linked with P4). You can see most of the rest of the climb from here.
2012-10-27 - Climbers on P9 seen from P5-6.
2012-10-27 - Following P6. Very easy pitch.
2012-10-27 - Looking down P6.
2012-10-27 - P7 5.8 roof. airy and committing, but not too bad overall. Crux is figuring out the moves before launching in to it too soon.
2012-10-27 - Looking up the exposed P8 pitch.
2012-10-27 - A fast team caught up to us and relayed that Rachel was having an 'issue with her ankle' and was bailing. Darlene had turned around after seeing the time of day and number of groups. These YoSAR guys were moving pretty fast and we were high on the route with seemingly plenty of time, so we were happy to let them pass.
2012-10-27 - P8 (5.9). Starts off with a very exposed and unprotected arete before turning into a physical and awkward leaning hand, finger & stem crack.
2012-10-27 - Looking down P8.
2012-10-27 - donwWolf sleeping at the P7 belay. Hmm . . .
2012-10-27 - donWolf following P7.
2012-10-27 - Team above us on P8. Note where the rope goes. I don't like face climbing so avoided the 5.9 face by climbing the 5.9 OW that they skirted around.
2012-10-27 - Pitch 9 (5.9)
2012-10-27 - P9 5.9 OW. This wasn't too technical and is mostly liebacked, with some hidden jams deep inside. Still, it was awkward. I recommend bringing 2 #4 C4 Camalots and 1 #5 C4 Camalot to protect it nicely. However, these pieces aren't useful on any of the other pitches on the climb.
2012-10-27 - P9 5.7 chimney above the OW. Unfortunately the OW took some time to figure out, so this lead took a while.
2012-10-27 - Looking down P9 and the runout mid-5th face. This part was unexpected!
2012-10-27 - Sentinel Creek Area
2012-10-27 - Pharaohs Beard
2012-10-27 - P10 (5.6). donWolf had difficulties cleaning cams, so it took him much longer to follow P9 than for me to lead it. Daylight is dwindling . . .
2012-10-27 - Sentinel Rock in the afternoon. donWolf was held up by more cam cleaning problems, and the sun is getting low . ..
2012-10-27 - Sentinel Rock in the afternoon.
2012-10-27 - Looking at the P11 traverse. This is a LONG traverse with several sizeable climbs up and down on the exposed flakes before launching up the face. A quality pitch!
2012-10-27 - donWolf leading P11 (5.8) at sunset.
2012-10-28 - Cathedral Spires and Rocks.
2012-10-28 - Cathedral Spires.
2012-10-28 - donWold leading P12 (5.7) the next morning. We had a nice night sleeping on the comfy belay ledge, enjoying the views lit by a full moon. This crux was thin, slippery, and unprotected. A fall would likely injure an ankle on the sloping slab below . . .
2012-10-28 - donWolf leading P12, above the unprotected bit.
2012-10-28 - Large pillar above P12. donWolf and I both thought the 5.7 face climbing next to this was harder and more runout than P11, which SuperTopo said was the slightly runout, harder, psychological crux pitch.
2012-10-28 - Following P12. Follow the blue rope and not the orange one.
2012-10-28 - Looking down P12.
2012-10-28 - P13 was cruddy. A short 5.6 move a short ways above the belay gains secure class 3 scrambling and easier for the rest of the pitch. Seriously I think with a 60m rope one could just get past the 5.6 after P12, set up a belay in the trees, and link these two pitches.
2012-10-28 - El Capitan & the East Buttress seen from the Manure Pile parking lot on the hike out.
2012-10-28 - The East Buttress seen from the Manure Pile parking lot on the hike out.
Waiting hours to climb! At least Mark was randomly there to keep us company (by Rachel Farrand)