2012-09-04 - Sunrise over Mt Teewinot.
2012-09-04 - Sunrise on the North Ridge, seen from camp.
2012-09-04 - Sunrise on the North Ridge, seen from the start in the notch.
2012-09-04 - Help! I've fallen and I can't get up!
2012-09-04 - Detached flake on P1 that I should have tunneled through. I wasn't sure if I would fit with my carryover pack, so I took a harder, direct line to bypass this, but it was pretty wide.
2012-09-04 - Leading past the detached flake on P1. Note the wind blowing the yellow rope. Despite the sunshine we were very cold! (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Entering the easy P2. Normally this would be cl. 3-4, but I had some tricky conditions to contend with.
2012-09-04 - P2 easy pitch gets less easy. The 5.8 P3 ascends the dark rock ahead.
2012-09-04 - Looking towards the standard P3 (5.8). About where I was here the snow hardened to ice.
2012-09-04 - Steph following the "easy" P2. Snow in the last bit of height had solidified into ice, making the climbing extra tricky. Did I mention I was in my climbing shoes? At least I was wearing socks!
2012-09-04 - Steph following up the "easy" P2. One tricky thing here is that the loose rocks still moved, and sometimes you were stepping on slippery slabs. (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - P3 escape to the Italian Cracks variation.
2012-09-04 - A steep downclimb on the P3 escape to the Italian Cracks variation, which was around the corner in sunlight, somewhat shielded by the fierce winds.
2012-09-04 - Should camelback nozzles be freezing on a 5.7 rock climb?
2012-09-04 - Cold at P4 start (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Steph getting warm at the P4 belay.
2012-09-04 - Leading the wide crack (5.6) of P4 on the Italian Cracks variation. (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - P4, wide 5.6 section. (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - I stopped short for a rest and belay in the sunshine. Then continued up this very steep corner to finish P4 (our P5). (5.7 roof to finish).
2012-09-04 - Mt. Owen from the North Ridge.
2012-09-04 - P5 belay (our P6), looking at the 5.7 face climbing crux. This had ice on it, and the intermittent cracks were pretty far apart. I traversed a lot to the right with ledge fall consequences looking for cracks for pro that were clear of ice.
2012-09-04 - P5 icy face climbing (our P6). Where I could, I was ripping chunks off to clear handholds and footholds. Overall I adjusted my route to avoid the ice, making me go far off route to the right.
2012-09-04 - Belay at rapp anchor above an icy slab. This was indicative that it was good to have not done the classic variation, as the Slab Pitch on that surely would have been iced over.
2012-09-04 - Icy cracks make it harder to find pro. (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Our P7 heading above the icy slab.
2012-09-04 - Snowy Second Ledge.
2012-09-04 - Second Ledge belay.
2012-09-04 - Gneiss.
2012-09-04 - Teewinot from the 2nd Ledge.
2012-09-04 - Mt Owen from the 2nd Ledge.
2012-09-04 - Steph Brewing up on the second ledge.
2012-09-04 - Steph pre-hot drink.
2012-09-04 - Steph post-hot drink.
2012-09-04 - Drinking hot water on the Second Ledge. (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Our brief P8 to move the belay around the corner on the Second Ledge.
2012-09-04 - Getting ready to lead our 8th pitch, which really was just to move the belay around the corner for the final 2 pitches to the end of the route (3 in Ortenburger). (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Second Ledge escape across the Great Chimney to the Upper Saddle.
2012-09-04 - Steph in the warmer (windless) belay. The wind blowing from the west actually made it colder in the sunshine! Fortunately the remaining pitches had us in chimneys, somewhat shielded from the wind.
2012-09-04 - P9 face climbing to reach the double chimneys.
2012-09-04 - Our P9 double chimneys. Apparently the right side is easier. I'd call it about 5.6.
2012-09-04 - Entering the right chimney of the detached column on our P9.
2012-09-04 - Right side chimney. Whee!
2012-09-04 - Piton in the right chimney.
2012-09-04 - Ice at the chimney belay.
2012-09-04 - Hail turned to snow or ice.
2012-09-04 - Steph following the right chimney. (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Steph doing the ChiChoMaMa (Chimney Chockstone Mantel Maneuver).
2012-09-04 - Starting the final pitch (our P10). (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - More chimneys.
2012-09-04 - Even more chimneys.
2012-09-04 - The evil squeeze, as the chimneys get icier. After 2 slips & retreats and a third attempt where I realized I would likely take a bad fall exiting the chimney onto a sloping, icy slab above, I had to ditch my pack here and haul it with Steph's help in the end.
2012-09-04 - Our P10 icy squeeze chimney, lined with lots of loose, sharp, dead lichen.
2012-09-04 - Icy & rusty chimney piton.
2012-09-04 - Our P10 icy piton across the sloped, icy slab.
2012-09-04 - Upper chimney on the last pitch of the North Ridge.
2012-09-04 - Looking down the upper chimney onto the icy slab exit and the rest of our P10.
2012-09-04 - Looking down from the top of the North Ridge route!
2012-09-04 - The icy slab bit. Be careful with that footwork! (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - More alpine pack hauling. Steph assisted on belay. (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Steph escaping the icy chimneys.
2012-09-04 - Steph & Teton Bill escaping the icy chimneys.
2012-09-04 - Final scramble to the summit, with occasional class 4 bits.
2012-09-04 - Blaaarg. (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Summit at last. Even Teton Bill is tired. (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Chimneys and puffies don't mix - Case Study #1 (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Chimneys and puffies don't mix - Case Study #2 (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Views South from the summit.
2012-09-04 - Teewinot from the summit.
2012-09-04 -Steph on the first rappel.
2012-09-04 - Making the second rappel. It was sunnier this time, but we felt much colder! (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Descending from the Upper Saddle. (by Steph Abegg)
2012-09-04 - Steph downclimbing the class 4 crux on the descent.