2012-08-23 - War Bonnet under alpenglow.
2012-08-23 - NE Face of War Bonnet.
2012-08-23 - Watch Tower and others under morning alpenglow.
2012-08-23 - War Bonnet as we depart camp. The upper NE Face is lit in the sun. We climbed around the backside to reach the notch above, where the route proper starts.
2012-08-23 - NE Face of War Bonnet. The technical climbing starts at the notch.
2012-08-23 - Approach ledges above Arrowhead Lake. You can mostly traverse over to this from the 'climber's Jackass Pass' trail. Look carefully for a line and some cairns as you encounter the large boulders as you descend from the pass.
2012-08-23 - Traverse much longer than you think. The ledge appears to end, but actually narrows, drops down, then widens and continues. The switchback is obvious and if you are climbing harder than cl. 2 to exit the ledge, you are leaving it too early. I say this because at first we exited too early!
2012-08-23 - Junky descent couloir. House-sized boulders of tediousness lie below.
2012-08-23 - Switching back on the approach ledge. Rock was mostly solid and mostly cl. 2 with occasional cl. 3-4 crux sections. None of it was ever all that exposed.
2012-08-23 - Final part of the approach ledges. The route begins at the notch ahead.
2012-08-23 - Shark's Nose, Overhanging Tower, Wolf's Head, Bollinger Peak, Tiger Tower (all in shadow) and Pingora seen from the notch.
2012-08-23 - Wolf's Head, Bollinger Peak, and Tiger Tower (in shadow) seen from the notch.
2012-08-23 - Shark's Nose and Overhanging Tower seen from the notch,
2012-08-23 - Pingora seen from the notch.
2012-08-23 - War Bonnet NE Face first pitch and beyond.
2012-08-23 - War Bonnet NE Face first pitch and beyond, panorama.
2012-08-23 - Finishing P1. I think Radek took the shadowy corner to the right, but the "Selects" guide directed us to the larger chimney on the left.
2012-08-23 - Wolf's head & Pingora from P2.
2012-08-23 - Wolf's head P2.
2012-08-23 - Pingora from P2.
2012-08-23 - Thomas leading the 5.6 chimney on P2.
2012-08-23 - P2 5.6 chimney. A little dirty . . .
2012-08-23 - P2 traversing right, thinking we are on route . . .
2012-08-23 - P2 climbing up before more traversing. We never found Radek's 6" ledge, which I think was at the next corner over (I could look down to it from here but we were cliffed out).
2012-08-23 - Starting P3 on lovely rock. It gets more decomposed higher up.
2012-08-23 - P3 crux. Thinking we were still on route, the info directed me to climb the decomposing left corner, where I couldn't see any pro or the mystical piton. No way! I like the line to the right better, and opted for what turned out to be a stout 5.8 OW (Thomas followed it as a lieback that he thought was 5.9).
2012-08-23 - Looking down from atop P3.
2012-08-23 - Thomas at the crux. He liebacked this at what he thought was 5.9. Leading it, I crawled inside at what I would rate a 5.8 OW.
2012-08-23 - P4, trying to figure out where to go.
2012-08-23 - Thomas leading P4. He is in gritty, friable 5.8R terrain and almost at a thin grassy ledge where he traverse to the right.
2012-08-23 - Thomas leading P4. He is in gritty, friable 5.8R terrain.
2012-08-23 - Thomas leading P4. He is past the gritty, friable 5.8R terrain and on a traversing ledge. This led to a grassy, dirt 5.9 downclimb to a notch on the right. This downclimb was thin and very awkward!
2012-08-23 - Following P4.
2012-08-23 - Following P4. I climbed up to a small ledge and then did the crux downclimb to Thomas.
2012-08-23 - Jackass Pass & Mitchell Peak seen from atop P4.
2012-08-23 - Following P4 steep grassy 5.9 downclimb.
2012-08-23 - P5 (5.6 spooky).
2012-08-23 - P5 (5.6 spooky)
2012-08-23 - Looking down P5. I later bailed on this pitch after a 5.8 finger traverse above some fresh rapp slings. I had doubts about being on route, which was too bad, since this was the way we should have gone!
2012-08-23 - So we rappelled on some bail slings at the base of P5 (there were bail slings everywhere on the face) to a ledge near some other bail slings in the next chute over. Thomas led up this corner as we thought we were one corner too far left on the face, especially after consulting the "Selects" guide photo.
2012-08-23 - Thomas leading up a corner that we hoped would lead us to the top . . .
2012-08-23 - I traversed this face to the sunlight. I thought the buttress on the skyline was midway across the face, and the chutes we sought after were maybe just around that corner (as there was nothing feasible in sight above us). So I traversed over on some loose ledges and large vibrating flakes to find . . .
2012-08-23 - No more NE Face! The tower in front seemed to overhang towards me. I think this is the Feather Pitch (5.9R/X). The "Selects" guide indicates the exit chute exits just to the right of the flake in sunlight behind and to the left.
2012-08-23 - Warrior I. Now I see why most parties don't continue to the summit after finishing the NE Face (IV, 5.9). Still, the guide says it is only a 'few' pitches of '5.7 with rappels' . . .
2012-08-23 - Warrior I. Now I see why most parties don't continue to the summit after finishing the NE Face (IV, 5.9), which ends on the tower on the right. Still, the guide says it is only a 'few' pitches of '5.7 with rappels' . . .
2012-08-23 - Looking back across the NE Face. Thomas is at the base and the "Selects" guide annotated photo indicated we exit to the near side of the flake in sunshine on the ridge. Instead of 5.6 this seemed to be more like 5.10R or worse, so we decided to trust Radek's drawing again, which showed the exit being several chutes back the other way.
2012-08-23 - 5.6 exit my butt . . . and I'm pretty sure the ridge drops right off the backside of that flake.
2012-08-23 - Looking for a 5.6-5.7 way up here. The "Selects" guide indicates 2 lines. We couldn't see anything remotely close, and no pro potential. Just seams . . .
2012-08-23 - Looking for a 5.6-5.7 way up here. The "Selects" guide indicates 2 lines. This section was very steep (about 80 degrees) and we couldn't see anything remotely close to that level of difficulty, and no pro potential. Just seams . . .
2012-08-23 - Looking back along the traverse (tilted about 45 degrees) as I reversed it.
2012-08-23 - Back on track after leading the rappel to get back to the base of P5.
2012-08-23 - Back on track looking back at Thomas. The pitch started with about 15' of unprotected 5.7 slab right off the belay. Good 'ol alpine flavor . . .
2012-08-23 - Wolf's Head from P5.
2012-08-23 - Crack climbing on the NE Face of War Bonnet.
2012-08-23 - Following P5 through the chockstone crux. Ooo lookie! A piton! That is a good sign.
2012-08-23 - Reaching Thomas atop P5. A little dirty here . . . Above is the exit pitch that goes through 2 5.6 squeeze chimneys. The second chimney had an interesting interior alcove with an ancient nut & chord. Stemming the alcove made the chimney easier.
2012-08-23 - P6 chimney.
2012-08-23 - After a hundred feet of class 4, we were on top! Late afternoon views of Steeple Peak from the summit.
2012-08-23 - Summit view of Steeple Peak.
2012-08-23 - Summit view South.
2012-08-23 - Summit view of Mitchell Pk.
2012-08-23 - Summit view of the Warrior I summit ridge from the NE Face to the summit.
2012-08-24 - War Bonnet's NE Face seen from near Jackass Pass.
2012-08-24 - Close up of where we wandered all over.
2012-08-24 - Below Arrowhead Lake, regaining the trail. We found a better way to traverse around the lake heading out - stay high and aim such that you reach the top of the large boulders in the distance.
2012-08-24 - War Bonnet and the long approach ledges.
2012-08-24 - War Bonnet from above North Lake.
2012-08-24 - Descent Couloir & annoying house-sized boulders below.