The Milky Way and Temple Crag from 2nd Lake.
The Milky Way and Temple Crag from 2nd Lake. The tree was illuminated by a headlamp.
Approaching Temple Crag from 3rd Lake.
Reaching the base of the aretes. The couloir to the right would make a good early season climb!
The snowfield & ledges leading to the base of MGA. Ibrium Tower is on the upper right.
Leading up the snowfield with one ax and no crampons (by Chris Terry)
Chris Terry following up the icy neve sans crampons. This was sketchy to lead without crampons and just one tool! Zipping the tool back down the line I trailed worked pretty well.
Sun Ribbon Arete. The start traverses the base of the white streak into the shaded corner on the right.
Sun Ribbon Arete
The aretes seen from the ledges approach section. I can see why people easily get on the wrong route!
Moon Goddess Arete ascends the left rounded rib. We simul-climbed up to just past the horizon.
Venusian Blind (IV, 5.7)
Beginning the cl. 4-5 simul-climbing.
Chris following on the easier section of the exposed cl. 3 ledges 'approach'.
Simul-climbing pitches 1-6 of Moon Goddess Arete.
Simul-climbing pitches 1-6 of Moon Goddess Arete. Ibrium Tower is still a ways away.
Venusian Blind seen while simul-climbing pitches 1-6 of Moon Goddess Arete. It is the closer arete.
First Tower (left) and Ibrium Tower (right) seen while simul-climbing pitches 1-6 of Moon Goddess Arete.
Sun Ribbon Arete. The right notch is where one must set up a Tyrolean!
Ibrium Tower seen from the exposed 5.7 traverse around the First Tower.
Leading the 5.7 traverse (by Chris Terry)
Looking down the exposed 5.7 traverse around the First Tower.
Looking into the exposed & loose notch between the First & Ibrium Towers.
Ibrium Tower seen from the notch.
Venusian Blind seen from the notch on Moon Goddess Arete.
Ibrium Tower and the technical crux of the route.
First Tower on Sun Ribbon Arete. Do you see the soloist?
Third Lake & Sun Ribbon Arete. Do you see the soloist?
After the notch (by Chris Terry)
Chris following on the exposed 5.7 traverse around the First Tower.
Sun Ribbon Arete and the first notch where you do the mandatory Tyrolean. Do you see the soloist?
Soloist on Sun Ribbon Arete (IV, 5.10a).
Looking down Ibrium Tower after the 5.8 crux. Below is the First Tower. Can you see Chris at the belay? I linked 2 pitches here for a long 220 ft pitch.
High on Ibrium Tower. Don't traverse right at the first white band. Go higher!
Traversing right at the second white band on Ibrium Tower. I believe the cracks above are the reputed clean & sweet 5.9 variation. I probably should have taken this route!
The first real crappy loose pitch, a 20ft cl. 4-5 downclimb followed by a long, exposed, & loose cl. 3 traverse.
Upper section of Sun Ribbon Arete seen from the traverse around Ibrium Tower.
View of 2nd tower from my first belay out of the notch after linking 2 pitches. These climbers meant to be on Venusian Blind.
Looking up the crappy loose 5.6 pitch, which was the psychological crux of the route. Don't hit your belayer!
Wild on the North Side (by Chris Terry)
Looking back on Chris belaying me on the first real crappy loose pitch, a 20ft cl. 4-5 downclimb followed by a long, exposed, & loose cl. 3 traverse.
Sun Ribbon Arete with the Tyrolean notch on the right. Seen from the traverse around Ibrium Tower.
Views of 1st & 2nd Lake & Skyhaven from Moon Goddess Arete.
Wide notch to step across. The upper cl. 4 section of the ridge was pretty airy!
The upper cl. 4 section of the ridge was pretty airy!
The upper section of Venusian Blind (foreground).
Upper section of Sun Ribbon Arete.
Looking down Venusian Blind from Moon Goodess Arete.
Final 5.7 pitch of Moon Goodess Arete. It ascends cracks on the left.
Chris following the airy cl. 4 upper section of Moon Goddess Arete. Watch those loose blocks!
The rappel section seen from Venusian Blind.
We opted to rappel this section instead of downclimbing, as it was slightly overhanging and we were tired :-) It seemed to be about 5.7-5.8.
Chris leading the final 5.7, linking the last two pitches of 5.7 & 5.6 to reach the top.
The last 5.6 section before the end of the route.
Palisade Crest at sunset from the Temple Crag plateau.
Middle Palisade & Norman Clyde Pk at sunset from the Temple Crag plateau.
Moon Goddess Arete - Temple Crag from 2nd Lake
Celestial Aretes - Temple Crag from 2nd Lake