2013-10-06 - Bear Creek Spire via East Ridge with Nic Risser
This climb has been on my 'to-do' list for a while. I even came out with another partner, last year, who broke his nose on the approach, and I had two 'near attempts' this Fall. At least the weather was stable, conditions good, and Nic and I were positioned and well rested for the climb. The only downsides were the colder temperatures and shorter days. The route is rated IV, 5.8, 22 pitches, but much of the route can be soloed or simul-climbed. I think we strayed a bit from the proper route, but still encountered some 5.8 and lots of fun climbing, although more cl. 2-3 terrain than we had expected (probably less if we'd stayed on route). The route has fun chimneys, tricky ridgeline climbing, and is about 2,200 ft long! We soloed the first pitch, belayed 2 other pitches, and simul-climbed the rest in a few mega-pitches. Most of the changeovers (or nearly so) were higher up on the "Picket Fence" type climbing, where even 30m was too much rope to have out. We were 15 hrs car-to-car.
Oct 6, 2013