AS SHE WAS THE DAY I BOUGHT HER, TIRED AND CLUTTERED INTERIOR
orriginal interior with UGLY poop brown tiled counters...
stock interior, laminate table top, mini refrigerator on the far right, no stove...single sink and tiled counter top, most of the inside wood is coated with cetol stain... UGLY...
. the cockpit teak combing boards mildewy from years of neglect
sitting at dock in alameda (bay area, california )
curtis, a friend at the helm on our first sail into the SF bay
over a long weekend i drove the truck and trailer up from phoenix to haul her home
trailer was designed to be submerged so i could simply float the boat onto the trailer and retrieve the trailer with the trucks large winch
lowered the mast with a home made A frame... the trailer actually has 8 wheels... theres an " inner " set
truck actually is a 1996 freightliner... with a 1957 chevy two ton body.. another one of my home projects... took six months to build..
back in phoenix..
moving the boat onto a bigger trailer, the one i built for my old columbia 30 served its purpose and i sold it... bought a 45ft shipping container trailer ( rated at 60,000lbs ) shortened it a bit and modified it to support the keel
my next modification is to install a complete new axle set up with " air ride" suspension as i really dont want to subject the boat to the harsh bumps and shocks older spring suspension gives....
waiting for the crane to show up to lift the boat onto the new trailer
the new trailer had air brakes and can now be tied into my trucks braking system as my truck had air brakes. i could go with single axle on the trailer as far as weight goes but the dual axle gives me twice the braking power....
the crane is finally here..
thru out the whole project, some pictures jump back and fourth.. its kind of the way i work, keeps my interest that way without getting locked into a project.
new corean counter tops, replaced single sink with double deep sinks, two burner guimballed propane stove with pot drawer underneath and large storage behind with gray corean lid.
new corean top on small bookshelf by port quarter berth...
port side settee was overly deep, moved out the back cushion allowing for a set of upper cabinets and also alot of storage between hull and cushion...and several small shelves for books as well...
new dinette table with silverware drawer. cabin sole is awaiting solid t@G 3/4 X2 1/2 brazilian red cherry flooring..
had to make my own water spout for the faucet...
galley faucets, main faucet with salt water and fresh water and smaller faucet plumbed to water tank inside refrigerator so cold water is always available without opening the refrigerator
galley cabinet face routed out and painted ready for caning
cabinet faces canned and installed
cutting board lifts up when needed adding alot of counter space
opening to refrigerator with stainless trim...
adding " pour foam " insulation between the hull and refrigerator box, from the factory there is only about 2", this brings it up to 5"
using regular spray can foam to fill gaps between counter top and box itself.
the refrigerator now is insulated with a minimum of 5" of foam, some areas have as much as 8". polyiso foam is rated at R10 per inch.
sliding upper tray for refrigerator
a detail of two holes for the pour foam on the stb side of the box, removing the cabinet in the nav station forward allows a peak into the back of the refrigerator box.
pour foam in 5 gallon containers... i mix 1/2 a cup at a time... 1/2 of A and 1/2 of B makes a full cup and alot of foam...!
peak into the foam pouring out into the back of the cabinet in the nav station.., the blue is simply a temporary " dam " to hold the foam back..!
the back of the refrigerator is full, foam overflowing now after about 10 cups, a pause of 15 minutes between each two cups, one in each hole to allow for set time. foam started pouting out into the bilge as well, i had to dam that area too .
under the sink i added 2" of polyiso foam on top of the plywood, drilled a test plug into the wood to make sure the foam was full between the fiberglass refrigerator enclosure and the plywood bulkhead, due to limited space i decided to add external insulation
copper evaporator for refrigerator, a 3' X 3' sheet of 1/16th copper plate and 50 feet of 1/4" copper tubing and about 5hrs of work. copper plate bend on press and soldered and tubing bent to size and slipped over outside of box. for maximum efficiency the evaporator will be controlled by a TX valve instead of capilary tube. my last unit consumed about 2.3 amps per hrs or about 55 amp per day at 12volts, about 5 hrs of solar panel charging to maintain the refrigerator each day, something very easy to attain with my panel output of 12 amps per hrs
copper tubing soldered to evaporator box to maximize cold transfer, tubing purged with nitrogen while soldering and silver soldering to prevent oxidation and contamination. system will use oversize condenser and R134
inside is 7 -1/2" X 16", a " modern " aluminum evaporator could have been bought for a bit over $100 but the heat transfer is not nearly as good. the refrigeration will be run by a 120 V, 800 btu Panasonic compressor, about 25% more efficient than the standard marine Danfoss 12V compressor ( the danfoss compressor is not a true 12V compressor, the very expensive power module required to run the danfoss converts the voltage ) so even with the loss of running the panasonic thru an inverter it still is more efficient and 1/2 the price. my last system ran for 20 minutes out of each hour, im shooting for something even more efficient this time.
nav station top was also very poorly designed, removed the nav table and angled it like a drafting table instead of flat like it was...
new instrumentation, garmin GPS map, icom 718 ham radio with modem for emails, icom VHF and furuno weather fax receiver, cut the liner out and added a side cubby hole....
nav station with newly painted bulkhead...
modified rig plan, adding a bowsprit, a cutter rig with a self tending inner staysail and also going with the yawl rig as originally designed by W.B. Crealock, the columbia registry only shows 3 - 36 yawls in existence
new bowsprit made out of sch40 2" 316 stainless...
bowsprit stay and fitting
new staysail upper fitting on mast, will also be my lifting/raising eye for the new tabernacle mast set up
riveted in place
bowsprit installed with double rollers....
new bow pulpit railing, clears the furling jib so the sail dowsnt rub on the railing
new staysail boom mount on foredeck, plenty of room between the jib and staysail for easy tacks...
dinghy davits..same stuff, 2" sch 40 stainless
new rigid boom vang on mizzen and made a manual, gear driven dinghy / davits raising system, stainless shaft and alluminum drums... its soo nice to have a good lathe and milling machine at home...!
details fo the reduction box and drum system, used a 10 to 1 ratio worm drive box, the dinghy with 15 hp four stroke motor is close to 250 lbs. this makes it a breeze to raise.... when its all perfected i will make a nice cover for it all..
main mast base, inner sleeve for tabernacle pivot... have designed the same rig on some of my bigger boats...
new tabernacle mast step...
step dry fitted on mast
new mast step ( tabernacle) for mizzen
details of step for mizzen
mizzen mast being fitted with hardware, this is the mast #1 as i decided to replace it later with a stronger one.
boom gooseneck... as usual home made...
gooseneck and winch mounting plate.. all riveted with stainless rivets
common mizzen chainplates and main backstay now that it has to be split to clear the mizzen, bellow deck the plate is connected to the hull with a 3/8 stainless turnbuckle on both sides
working on relocating the mast wiring..
removing the old albin diesel... still runs great but opting for a new kubota based 28 hp diesel...
the kubota sitting in the shop ( this motor will eventually find its way into our columbia 29...) but that is another story..
the water cooled manifold was NOS ( new old stock ) onan generator parts. if anyone is considering converting a kubota, the D905 and the D1005 ( 24 and 28 hp) use the same block so all parts interchange... i went with a hurth hbw 150 - 2.75:1, way overkill as far as rating as it can handle 75 hp.
working on my dinghy as well, the orange tubes are pool noodles that will be glassed over... bought a rotted out avon inflatable so i had a good fiberglass bottom to build my dinghy from... the only original part / bottom is the flat part where the drill sits...
.. cut the tubes off the avon and build a hard dinghy that looks like an inflatable, used some 14" fiberglass ducting cut in half to duplicate the inflatable tubes...
this is the original avon bottom ( the greenish part ) and the new glasswork tying into it making up the sides and hard "tubes " under...
since there are no tubes there is alot more interior room...
poured in foam has over 400 lbs flotation total between the seats and the front "box".. overall its 8ft 4 inch,very stable and flies with my honda 15hp, when cruising, will only take the 8hp 4stroke evenrude though, still flies with two people in it... and 30 lbs lighter
one last modifiation, added stern "tube" extensions ( foam filled of course )
dinghy on davits
old mast head fitting.. the sheaves were made for wire halyards...
new larger and stronger cast mast head fitting, the bigger sheaves will work for all rope halyards, the new, longer fitting pushes the backstay away from the sail and will compensate for the new split backstay as it is moved off the transom and forward a bit to clear the mizzen..
new masthead fitting installed, #6 lightning wire and mast head light wiring. waiting on a 100" spool of marine C213 coax cable for my antenna... (213 is mill spec 50 ohm coax, about twice the diameter of RG8X and half the loss..)
toggle / backstay insulator for top of backstay for SSB / ham radio. pressed in delrin insert and mounted between two phoenolic washers... something i designed years ago and have had great luck with.. much simpler, cheaper and less chance of failure compared to a " normal " backstay insulator
pivoting radar mount for mizzen, slips onto bracket and pin mounted on mizzen...
new longer upper roller furling attachment since the forestay is now 12 inches longer because of the bowsprit
the split backstay sheeve where it connects to the backstay, the delrin pulley acts as an insulator as well for the hf / ham / ssb radio antenna
cockpit floor stainless frame for easy engine access
cover for engine access hatch in cockpit, routed a groove for a rubber gasket
frame installed in cockpit floor, the new engine needs to go in next..
detail of new aft chain plate holding up the main backstay and the mizzen upper and aft lower stay
routing out the cockpit seat to install sealed and vented overboard propane bottle holders..
both sides cut out and ready for the insert..
14" fiberglass tubes ready to slide in the hole..
tube in place and held in by temporary screws untill epoxied and sealed.
fiberglass bottoms for the two propane lockers in the cockpit. 1" stainless drains / vents at the bottom vented overboard thru a thru hull above waterline on each side.
detail of the drains at the bottom of the propane lockers
bottom installed with 1" drain / vent visible at bottom side
20lbs propane bottle fits perfectly.... now i just need to install the regulator and run the hose to the galley
new mizen as seen from shop roof...
mizen and davits
the two new hatches in the main salon..aded a total of 4 hatches thruout the boat
another hatch on the fordeck above the v berth...
the small forward hatch is for ventilation into the head...
jig to laminate mahogany ceiling beams for main cabin
closer view of mahogany being laminated
laminated mahogany ceiling beams installed
another view of new ceiling beams
deatil of some of the window trim, companionway trim and instrument covers. starboard side is a gps navigator /depth finder and ports side has also depth, wind speed, dirrection indicator.
new curtain rod set up... 1/2 stainless rods behind mahogany trim
new curtains installed
two new portlights installed in cabin, amazingly, these match the others in cabin side, found used columbia portlights at minneys in newport beach.. also, the old alluminum winches are beeing replaced with newer stainless two speed winches.
routing out for opening ports above quarter berths in cockpit well...
new opening ports installed, extra light and ventilation for the quarter berths
above quarter berth... still need to clean up the electrical around the engine gauges and some paint...
installing solid 3/4 X 2-1/2 jatoba ( brazilian red cherry ) very hard and durable, about 2-1/2 times harder than oak...
detail of the new floor access " hatch" as the original sole did not have an inspection cover in the v berth area and there is suprisingly alot of room below the floor
ORIGINAL V BERTH WITH VERY LIMITED STORAGE
laminating a mahogany beam in place in the v berth, also visible are the new cutouts in the liner to access extra storage against the hull.
the front door " anchor" design HAS to go...! i will probably cover it with bamboo canning..
anchor locker door re coverred with caning.
cut outs against hull have been trimmed out and " risers " of oak on the upper edge of the v berth give alot od extra storage for clothe...
all trimmed out, the oak risers are trimmed with jatoba and the alluminum deck to hull joint capped with solid oak trim
the nav station seat was soo small it was almost useless even for a small framed person like me.. the new cushion support is mych bigger and practical.. still needs to be trimmed out and new cushion made..
trimmed out with mahogany, the " curve " is to clear the head door as it opens
new traveler to relocate the main sheet to mid-boom instead of the original set up where the sheet ran off the end of the boom aft of the cockpit.....
traveler is all stainless...
traveler installed, temporary blocks untill new blocks arrive...
dodger installed and now installing new larger winches thru out the boat ( winches i already had )
new ridgid boom vang on main boom, the boom now is self supporting, no more topping lift needed, in light air the rigid vang can lift the boom to give more curve to the sail and in strong winds flattens the sails as well.. the best of both worlds..
V berth hatch removed and lined with red oak strips
hatch installed and new latch made from 1/4" stainless
red oak tongue and groove to cover the back bulkhead, made a cardboard pattern first, assembled all the boards and traced out the shape and cut each plank. all boards are numbered to make installation easy
the new aft bulkhead of the port quarter berth.
still awaiting varnishing
removed the old lexan portlight in the main salon,
the original portlight is bedded in with something similar to 5200 making it near impossible to remove, i used a peanut grinder with a 4-1/2" cutting disc to cut the bedding between the cabin side and the portlight.
new frame and portlight with tinted windows installed
a saturday morning project, needed two double cheek blocks, spent $8 on stainless and previously bought 2" nylon sheeves @ $2.25 each... 3hrs of labor and saved myself $120...
the watermaker almost mounted.. 600 gallons per day system i've made. it runs from its own 7 hp kubota diesel... its my 3rd generation design, built my first one over 20 years ago and all have been flawless, unlimited water, the wonders of modern engeneering...
inside the rear lazarette, port side, new 20 gallon diesel tank
matching 20 gallon tank on starboard side, total fuel capacity is 70 gallons now, should be good for at least 700 mile range. the round tube to the left of the tank is the propane tank storage accessible from the cockpit and vented overboard from the bottom.
3rd and final motor....! couldnt pass it up, a very low hour kubota V2203, 48 HP at 2900rpm... amazingly these gems will run for 20,000 hrs on refrigerated semi trailers, more power than i need as i my " dream " engine would of been around 38hp... my old engine max rpm was 3600 and my 2.75:1 transmission ratio wont work with my new prop as this engine runs much slower., need to get a 2:1 now...!
adapted a hurth hbw250- 2.75/1 found a bell housing i could machine and make work. ended up with only .002" thousands of an inch out of round... a tolerance the flex plate can deal with..
again, i made a jacketed water cooled manifold out of stainless, six hours of work and $150 in stainless... beats the $1500 from Beta or westerbeke.. and its stainless...
added a oil suction tube to the bottom of the pan for easy oil changes.
motor installed, new heat exchanger and mounts, made a stainless expansion tank / fill for cooling system. piped in the 3 fuel tanks with separate valves into a large filtering system with water monitor. new 1" thru hull cooling water intake with strainer. batteries used to be on both sides of engine making access very difficult, they are being relocated forward.
motor installation done, all controls hooked up and dry fired at last...
next step is to make a new engine cover...
new engine compartment main cover behind companionway strairs, the plywood is sealed and ready to be painted gloss white
cockpit instruments, gps plotter, wind speed, direction, boat speed, depth... despite all that i'll still navigate with papercharts..
24 mile radar display on pivoting mount i made, the radar was a great deal, prefer the power and resolution of the 24 mile but in reality the 16 is fine for a sailboat
removable mahogany cover over the back of the cockpit instruments.
without the cover...
radar display pivoted out into the cockpit
radar view from cockpit
another project...! i really didnt like the dodger i had, never did fit very well, was too low and too small, so i made a new frame out of 1" stainless, my old one was 7/8"
fine tuning the new frame on the boat, bought a harbor freight roller bender on sale..... $125 and has spare rollers and will do from 1" to 1-1/2", did a nice job.
harbor freight roller bender, fairly primitive but works well, had to shim the rollers to reduce side play and can achieve and bend any radius on pipe from 1" to 1-1/2".
would work quite well if it was mounted horizontally on a table with guides for the tubing. its a bit tricky using it vertically and keeping the tubing straight as it passes thru the rollers
a 4X10 sheet of 1/8 polypro to make a base to lay up the fiberglass on the new frame. oh.. did i mention im making a hard dodger..
the polypro fastenned to the frame, the beauty of it is fiberglass resin does not stick to polypro and a heat gun bends it very easily so i can create a lip on the front for the canvas / windows.
an inside view
after 4 layers of 1708 biradial glass... its roving with matt sewn together, very strong yet easy to lay and go around curves
made a wood pattern for the router, clamped it to the side and cut out side windows
first mate admiring the work... the polypro slipped right out, the inside is shiny and smooth and the outside has a very fine cloth weave pattern,
a chilly arizona winter day, it dropped to 67 and windy...
dodger on boat and making a pattern to lay glass to create a combing to snap the bottom of the dodger canvas and windows. yes im talking about all the wood blocks, their angles changes to match the dodger front lip as it curves.
the blocks will be covered with 1/8 polypro and then glassed
two days latter the combing is done... of course i work. get home at 2.30 each day so i have a few hours to work on projects every day
front view of combing, it will be fastenned to the cabin top,
detail of combing over the hatch allowing the hatch to slide open and closed. so far, the dodger and combing project took 4 days, one saturday and 3 afternoons... material was 280 for 5 gallons of resin and 16 yards of 1708 cloth and 60 for the polypro sheet. i had 1" stainless laying around. as simple way to convert and existing dodger into a hard top / sided dodger if your canvas is bad...
dodger combing faired and painted ready to be permanently fastenned / beded onto the cabin top
the seem between combing and cabin will vanish when fastenned, the gap in the center is clearence for the main hatch to slide and clear the combing
making hand rails for the top of the dodger, using a gear bender to bend 1" stainless tubing. these little benders are about $130 and work really well for tight bends
handrail finished and mounted... it took less than two hrs to make both and mount them
used two 1" stainless washers for the base of the handrails. drilled and mounted with 3 # 3/16 bolts per pad.
final bracing for the dodger, brace forward, brace aft and one side brace to the cabin top... way more than needs to be...!
$20 staysail boom installed, made from a heavy alluminum extrusion found at a metal salvage yard
outside painting of dodger, gloss white
front of dodger, " awning rail " installed inside, under the front edge of dodger to attach the canvas and windows.
another one of my designs, stainless wind generator bracket, wind generator is mounted on angle gearbox, one issue i had in the past with several wind gen's is the "hunting" the gen did, each time the generator would change dirrection because of a slight windshift it would almost stall, it always seemed to work better when the wind generator was held in one direction and not allowed to hunt...
at anchor, the boat is always into the wind, ( with the anchor from the bowsprit and the mizzen, the boat doesnt go back and fourth like many modern sloops ) under sail, because of the gearbox under the gen i can adjust its position to any angle the wind comes from. a control line will wrap around the pulley on the side of the generator and come down to deck level
the fourwinds seems to be the only wind generator that actually makes usable power at low winds like those encountered in sheltered anchorages... 8 to 12 knots...( 3 to 6 amps ) i have owned two of these and lived with them in real world sailing conditions... and i have owned others as well and these are the best. despite their home made apearence.
i was shocked 25 years ago when i bought my first one brand new.. i thought to myself.. i paid all this money and it looks like it came from someones garage... and someone not that good at that...! but they are reliable, bullet proof and efficient...
cabinet faces ready for priming and painting...
finally, the bulheads painted white, sprayed with acrylic enamel, napa's comercial line, under $50 a gallon, in bright sunlight outdoors, acrylic enamel will retain its gloss for at least 5 years.. it used to be the standard factory auto paint in the 60's and 70's
finished galley main bulkhead, and of course a picture of " shadow dancer" my 78 foot Ron Holland schooner i built many years ago and mostly sailed single handed on my 5 year cruise in the mid 90's
i converted the brass oil lamp to LED, cut the reservoir open and inserted a led string light i spiral wound facing the table, and behind the frosted lend is a very bright 100 led bulb, a two position switch in the base allows for selection.
a much brighter interior.....
much larger nav station seat with bench trim curved to clear head door as it opens. nav station table now angled downward, original table was flat.
a REAL marine head....
my new cabinetery and paint... upholstery is next, already have 20 yards of really nice fabric...
setting the boat asside for a few days to change the axles on the trailer.....had to remove the rudder which involved lifting the boat up 20" and digging a hole in the ground as well
after lifting the trailer and cutting some brackets, the whole axle / carriage assembly is sliding back, it just so happenned i have sturdy tree right behind the boat... and a big come along
its all free...and the boat didnt fall...!
and you are wondering WHY i am doing this.... i am replacing the whole axle / carriage with a " air ride " set up, air bags instead of springs, couldnt stand the thought of the boat being bounced around going down the road. also a bonus is the new wheels are the same as on my truck... and polished alluminum .....ooooohhhhh...!
getting ready to tow it out of the yard, notice the old style donut wheels and split rims with inner tubes... very old school, this old assembly is only rated at 45,000lbs compared to the new one at 60,000lbs...
tomorrow i'll get the cabin cruiser out of the way... perfect for spending a week on the water in the sea of cortez island hoping... the little cummins diesel only burns 2.5gph at 9 knots...
ooops, getting sidetracked..
new " air ride " axle carriage. so.... a boat really is a hole in the desert in which your pour money... im starting to smell the water..
air bags deflated..
frame cut out so it can drop onto new axle assembly and fit around new cross members, ended up buying a new plasma cutter to make the job easier, my old one would only cut 3/16... the new one is good for up to 1/2"... theres a good 1/2 day of welding coming up...
its in and supporting the boat / trailer weight, heavy tack welds for now, have to cut some access holes in frame so i can weld back side of frame.
some of the cutouts in the frame to clear the new cross members, still have to weld frame to cross members
the bottom of the frame I-beam is sitting on the new carriage, all the cutouts are fully supported across the bottom and once welded will be as strong as the carriage itself
final touches on "air ride" installation, welding on fender brackets
1/4" alluminum diamond plate bent for fenders
upholstery finally installed ties everything in together, despite having 3 industrial sewing machines, i decided to let someone else do the sewing... theres only so many hours in one day and sometimes i just have to let someone else " take over..."
the final interior step will be to completely refinish the floor as all i did was put a " protective " coat on when i installed it..
the nav station finished as seen from the bathroom " head " with both doors open.
water maker almost complete, powered by a 7 hp kubota and 700 gallons per day output, the first one i built was in 1991, used that one for 5 years of cruising and performed flawlessly, the " overkill " capacity allows me to run the water maker once a week for 3 hours to top off the tanks, water tank capacity is about 110 gallons.
back of my control panel
control panel front
control panel installed
allot is said of the construction quality ( or lack of ) of the columbias, and much of it unfounded, here is a sample of the hull above the waterline forward of the transom, 1-1/2" hole for a thru hull, as you can see the hull is close to 1/2 thick.... this is my third columbia , a 43, a 30 and now this 36.... yes they were mass produced with cost in mind, and the cost cuts came from basic interiors, no flash or frills... elbow grease can pretty up any columbia and turn her into a " yacht, but safety or strength is up to par with most boat builders and certainly better than many, the fact that 40 plus years latter every marina is packed with old columbias.....
new LED light for the dodger, found 47" 12V high intensity led flexible strips on ebay straight from china for under $7 each including shipping, made a 10X10 mahogany base and routed a groove for the lights.
the light is wired inside the stainless dodger frame to a switch inside the cabin.
at night the led's are amazingly bright and really do a great job at lighting up the cockpit and use only 650 MA ( .6amp)
my water level gauge.... since i have 3 tanks all connected, one forward under the V berth (43 gallons- thats the factory optional tank), the other factory tank under the cabin sole 30 gallons and another 40 gallons under the starboard quarter berth. this will allow me to keep track of the first 85 gallons of water use.
took some 1/2" stainless tubing, milled slots out of it, inserted some 3/8 clear teflon tubing and vented it thru the head.
i still need to calibrate it, will pour 10 gallons at a time into the tank fill and mark my levels and then make a stainless or brass scale i will mount behind the sight glass.
a 50" long led light strip , again, simply a mahogany piece routed out to receive the led strip. great light for every night use, low power and the light source is hidden.
the light is pretty bright, as LED's are directional the light actually works best in the cockpit as the light is mounted fairly high allowing the light to spread over a larger area, but these work great at lighting up the counter
finally doing some finishing touches, removing 45 years of old varnish and starting with clean teak... what a difference.
the pin-rails are starting to look great after 8 coats of polyurethane, next picture is a before shot...
starboard side quarter berth storage area in the process of being converted into an extra water thank, 1/2" polypro baffles installed to prevent sloshing before underside of lid is fiber-glassed and bedded into place. the port side quarter berth is where the factory fuel tank is so this will balance out the weight. the measured capacity should be right at 50 gallons.
lid to the starboard quarter berth storage fiberglassed over to seal the new water tank
new mizzen after painting and all mast head electronics and wiring installed. my old mizzen came off a racing sloop and was a fractional very light rig, this is a crusing main mast of a 27ft boat, much heavier, stiffer and with a thicker wall
receptacle for the navman wind speed / direction instruments, also running a vhf antenna on the mizzen for the radio in the cockpit, the main vhf radio at the nav station has its antenna on the main mast for better reception and range.
1/2" mahogany planks epoxied onto the transom.
all the plugs over the rivets installed and a first coat of vanish .... many , many more to go... when i repaint the hull, the white will overlap the mahogany by about 1" all the way around, it will hide the fairing compound and seal the end grain as well....
after 8 coats of varnish its finally getting a nice shine... a few more sandings and more varnish and it will be done
quality just doesnt seem to exist any more, machined some brass stock for a base / body, threaded the inside and used a traditional perko Fresnel lens for my mast head light. of course it will have a nice LED bulb...
new base for deep cycle battery in forward locker with matching one on stb side.
another battery tray under Vberth with matching tray on stb side as well. the 4 batteries will cancel out the aft weight of the water maker and the dinghy aft on davits.
besides the starting battery, i will carry four, 220 amps 6 volt batteries, giving me a total of 440 amps at 12 V. with a draw of only about 40 amps every night it will mean my batteries will never be less than 10% discharged, it should give me 7 to 10 years of battery life.
it was finally time to take the plunge and buy the batteries, 232 amps @ 6 volts. they will be wired in series and then parallel giving us a total of 464 amps at 12 Volts
the new engine compartment cover, i still need to install the cleat on the floor to lock the cover in place.
i have a very heavy roll of rubberized lead sheeting for soundproofing, that will be a project of its own...
we refinished the companionway steps as well.