I fab'd an aluminum valance to hide ugly sheetmetal from donor Jetta trunk flange
Ugly sawed-out sheetmetal from donor Jetta trunk bulkhead...needs to be hidden
Mat at Demented Graphics set me up. Looks great, now
to finish her for some driving duty
Sprayed too heavy on first coat, lots of runs, made extra work for me sanding it all out!
Backyard spraybooth, first primer on hood
Hood all sanded and ready for seciond coat of primer
Driver side hinge in place
Passenger side hood hinge mounts under bumoer and back on frame channel
Driver side hood hingre assembly in place. The vertical silver slotted piece of metal
Hood with first coat of primer...I had to spend hours hand-sanding out all the runs I had from laying it on too thick! I love the way the streamlined hood blisters over the shock mounts came out
Hood "leash" to keep it from tilting too far forward. I ran it from the bumper/radiator mount to the top of the brake duct. You can choose to put it anywhere!
Hood hinge mounts to nose here
Headlight taped, padded and protected for revising headlight hole which I ortiginally cut too big. A self-inflicted PAIN!
driver side bodywork before primer 2
ONE BOLT to easily remove door!
Driver door bodywoprk before primer
F panel trial fit
First iteration of wheelwell aluminum . revision to come I bet!
HAMMER OVER the seam that runs under the forward-facing frame horns to fit wheelwell aluminum. I used a hammer, with a sledge hammer under the seam to beat against. Ha
mmer work on car builds is my idea of fun! .
Fit isn't perfect yet, but I GOT THEM IN! Harder job than I figured, cut the hood holes a bit too big on passenger side, so will try to do some fill and sanding soon.
Half wood screw, half 10-20 machine thread stud. I used these for headlight mounts, so I could take headlights on and off a lot while doing final fitment and bodywork
Closed and streamlined. Wish I'd taken pics of the measure and cut process, but it is very easy if you just use the template that comes with the latch.
Aerocatch latch instead of metal sliding hood pins that I originally used. AESTHETICALLY, this hood deserves the Aero's, I believe.
Hood blister underside detail, headlight mounts fab'd and glued in, headlights temporarily held in place by gravity, pressure sticks, and gaffers tape on the outside of the hood
Picking up body panels and mystery box-o-parts from Ernie Bello Motorsports, the shipping receiver. Thanks Ernie!
Inner door panel, passenger side, triangle thingy in place and bolted tight
More door cutting for door triangle thingy...Ryobi rechargeable sawzall with medium blade was PERFECT tool for the job
Cuttijng for upper door corner metal triangle thingy
Driver side forward frame brace in place
Passenger side forward frame brace in place
Outer view passenger door, triangle door thingy in place and bolted tight
G3F Power Trio in repose
Mike's freakish dexterity enables bolting top of new brace above driver side dash
READY FOR DASH COVER installation. REMEMBER: that big metal plate in the middle of the dash support tube is where the plastic tab UNDER THE DASH COVER slides in to hold the center of the dash cover in the proper position
all duct pieces reinstalled and gaps taped into final position. Ready for dash cover reinstall and blower test.
Defrost vent with little-by-little cutaway parts to fit lowered dash position
VERY rough fit of modified ductwork for heat, air conditioning dash vents. I WILL close those gaps with plastic, aluminum sheet, or aluminum a/c tape.
Blower box vent is immediately behind the stereo when dash and center stack are reinstalled. I wanted the be sure there was CLEARANCE for the stereo, so fab'd this sheet metal piece to cover the huge empty hole created when I cut most of the face of this duct away.
See how the stepped aluminum piece adds clearance for the stereo unit in the center stack?
it is NOT perfect but it is DONE. You can do better with patience and more trial-fittings!
new stepped-metal piece to replace face of blower duct I cut away. the step gives more space for stereo in dash stack. I used scrap metal from one of the heat shields I removed from under the Jetta during disassembly.
highly-crudely modified blower box duct which will hopefully clear the stereo in the center stack. I modified and rivetted in place the top lip, hoping to fit the modified center duct back on top of this thing. Won't know if it works til I try! PS: the fit to the modified TOP duct could have been improved by additional trial fitting and more patience. I decided to go ahead as-is, and use aluminum tape to eliminate any gaps.
Scrap Jetta heat shield is a good source for thin sheet metal. How to flatten it out after you cut it? put it on the concrete and step on it a few times!
top lip cut off upper dash duct per instructions...I thought I'd try to reuse it
duct cut per instructions, using that hacksaw blade and handle. Aluminum sheet I ended up NOT using...it didn't provide enough clearance for the stereo I mounted in the center stack. Fab'd my own plate to see if it could be clearanced.
DUCT MODIFICATION to fit lowered dash. I call this thing the Blower Box Duct. It comes out of the HVAC blower box. I cut per drawings in G3F Evernote manual, but added back the top ring (with the rubber foam lip you can see in pic) using poprivets.
marked for cutting per instructions
All this stuff snaps into place using the hook (bottom), locating pins (one on each side next to the mounting screw), and upper tab you see with the square hole in it.
NEW PARTS in the mail!!! Aluminum sheet = Blower box duct mod. Steel folded pieces = door upper corner components. (I painted em already, probably wrong color)
Initial seat mounts. Bolted to Smyth bracket in front, sitting on 2x4 in rear til I get the seat angle just right, then will make it permanent WITHOUT wood.
Smyth seat mount
Smyth seat mount bolted to eBay seat slider rails
how I wired my starter switch to bypass the ignition key
temporary mount for starter switch. Can't figure if I like this or a push button.
Stock 1999.5 shift mechanism...REPLACED by 2001+ parts, cables, and shifter box to work correctly with Smyth shift design.
production shift tray with linear bearings now mounted on 1/4" rubber spacers for some compliance during shift movements
1/4" spacers are made from vacuum hose
Cutting shift bearing spacers from vacuum hose
Seat sliders mounted to eBay seats. Easy to get em on wrong...think it through as you assemble them!
Seat in a box with slider components included
VID-Exhaust Sound test2
VID-Exhaust Sound test1
Smyth Performance TDI exhaust - sounds perfect to me, brace parts on floor to be installed later
New Smyth exhaust system, compared to my crude straight pipe cut from the stock catalytic converter pipe
9-19-12 FIRST DRIVE
VID: Run down Holly Oak, left turn
9-20-12 Return run after playing on our dirt roads
VID Garage return Healthy Whistle
VIDEO: 9-20-12 Leaving garage for 2d time ever
Simon sees the NEW EXHAUST delivery, he LOVES the odd-shaped packages that come from Smyth Headquarters!
9-19-12 First test drive, pic taken from a towering Ford F-350 diesel pickup, he couldn't even hear my engine!
Shifter cable interface problem, easy fix I'm hoping. Weak stock shift cable end allowed rubber bushing to pop out. I crammed it back into place, and put a big washer over it so no more popouts.
Video of engine after first start, with hacked-off catalytic converter exhaust pipe
VIDEO FIRST START! 9-17-12 We were as surprised as anybody. I THINK I purged air from the injectors the night before while slowly turning the engine with my defective starter. This new starter spun this thing to life like crazy! PS: Lynn's concern about smoke recalls how one of my car builds caught fire 10 years ago and burned us out of our home for 13 months!...so she notices smoke others might ignore!
9-17-12 Damn right I'm happy! It just started for the first time 15 months after being yanked from the Jetta, modified, installed in the back, rewired, replumbed, reorganized, and new starter. WHEW, that is a HUGE relief! Now, go carting very soon!
VIN # stamped into front tray piece removed for windshield frame mount. I harvested it for later use on the G3f maybe...don't know if that's legal, will have to check it out!
Me trying out my Ross-Tech VCDS hookup...pretending I know what I'm doing...
Instrument pod and dash cover back in place
Clearance the vertical black plastic dash support to fit over the steel plate in the center of the picture.. Trim vertically where you see my finger.It allows the dash cover to fit down normally
Fitting the dash cover back in place - FINALLY!
Try as I might, it won't budge or flex. You Cobra guys, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS with your windshield frame!
Unnhhh, this new windshield frame is STRONG, like bull!
I tapped the holes in the windshield frame to accept the stock bolts (8mm-1.25 thread) which held the stock dashboard mount in place. First, hog the holes out with 17/64" bit, to accept the tap.
My Ferrari-red truck pulled in beside this actual Ferrari with a
"Smyth Performance"- shaped logo on the front fender. Good logo placement idea for my G3F...
Windshield frame in place, trial fit, some minor trimming of Jetta carcass still needed to proper fit.
Interior view in place
What it looks like in place
Trial fit, clamp-in-place dashboard brace pipe and brackets
This is the stock dashboard bracket you REMOVE from the Jetta before installing the windshield frame. Use the HOLES where this bracket was mounted to attach the windshield frame to the Jetta carcass, using the same bolts you removed from the stock bracket. Notice how the dashboard brace pipe and it's bracket fit against the windshield frame when it's bolted in place. NOTE: You DO NOT USE THIS STAMPED SHEETMETAL BRACKET ANYMORE. I am just showing it to point out where and how you find the bolt holes to mount the windshield frame!
Another view of what I cut away from the strut tower
BE SURE to move wiring out of the way before cutting across the cowl tray. and KEEP YOUR CUT SHALLOW, don't tilt the blade straight down...lots of stuff to damage if you are not careful
See, the frame comes REAL CLOSE to the strut tower, and must fit down tight. The semi-circular sheet-metal brace welded to the windshield frame attaches to the top of the strut tower. It is very flexible, and will bend down to meet the strut tower when you tighten the bolts after drilling the top of the tower. Do this AFTER you've bolted the frame to the Jetta carcass at the dashboard area and the thick flange that is just under my index finger in this pic
Almost final configuration. I cut another 1/2" off the inner wall in the center of the pic (and flattened it out), after trial fitting the windshield frame. This stuff cuts easily, be careful of your aim.
First iteration of cut. It must be trimmed down flat and lower for the windshield frame to fit down to nestle on that little gray "shelf" you see in the top left corner of the photo...the one with green paint drips showing.
Windshield frame rests on the grey shelf you see at 2 o'clock in this picture. Trim the inner cut til you get it sitting cleanly on that shelf and windshield-frame mounting holes align with the 3 holes you see INSIDE the A-pillar here, at approx. 3 o'clock in the photo.
Cross-cut showing the line I used guided by studs in the tray, and the extra trimming I did around the strut towers. Final trimming still needed at the inner wall of the "pontoon" connecting the strut tower and the A-pillar on each side. Not bad for first cut, though.
More metal cut from strut tower, passenger side
after cut: the pink paper covers the electrical connection box and vent intake in the tray, plus the fuel tank etc. up front. I sawed metal closer to the strut towers next.
PS: See that silver VIN-stamped panel in the top of the tray? I cut it out later with some tin snips in case I can use it on the car later.
Yes, cutting auto sheetmetal is a fun way to spend your time!
CUTTING again, I love it. The front tray is cut straight on a line connecting a row of small studs welded onto the tray, you can't miss them. I used my die grinder cutting wheel to make a small incision at the middle of the tray for an easy way to start my sawzall cut. KEEP THE CUT SHALLOW, there's delicate parts under the tray!
PAINTED windshield frame with Rustoleum Pickup Bed paint, recommended by Mark to my everlasting gratitude...TOUGH stuff. Jetta carcass is draped and ready for more surgery
Jack in his race car bed...I worked a month on this project while waiting for new G3F parts. I was going to make a G3F Bed, but Jack was afraid it would look like the G3F in my GARAGE (Jetta carcass full of parts and promise, but admittedly not sleek or race car looking yet), instead of the final version with bodywork and paint!
Uncrate and de-pack windshield frame, another laser-cut welded assembly that I consider a piece of art. Beautiful design & execution, now let's see if it works!
August arrival of windshield frame a BIG HELP in resuming forward progress!
Use MALE FITTINGS from fuel tank hose to connect 5/16" rubber fuel hose to the underbody fuel lines. Other end goes to the fuel filter
As installed with Gates connectors and 5/16" fuel hose
Gates straight barb fittings to connect fuel hose between underbody fuel lines and fuel filter lines
I like these Gates barb hose connectors, from NAPA. No hose clamps needed... you have to CUT the hose to remove it once inserted.
Fuel tank visitor
June 19, 2011 - Two sweaty guys: beheading of Jetta is DONE, BUILD of the SMYTH G3F beta #1 now begins in earnest
My final front wiring setup
I removed these fittings from the fuel filter lines, so I can connect 5/16" fuel hose with barb fittings
Here's how I routed the fuel lines, there are probably better ways, but this looks good to me.
Put female fuel line fitting recovered from fuel tank lines into 3/8" fuel hose, and connect everything up
Remove fuel line fittings from stock fuel tank lines. Use heat gun, pulls right out
Maddie works on cleaning the G3F carpet...we thought it'd be fun to pressure spray it
Mocked-up connections at fusebox. I bolted fusebox to the fuel tank mount. I'll tidy up, and put flex protection on the cable runs later.
See this red wire at the engine harness? It has to be extended FORWARD to the fuse box. I used crimp/shrink/solder butt connectors and 15' of red 8 gauge wire
(-) Ground cable installed; (+) Starter cable installed
Hole in firewall I found for ground bolt, just behind battery, after sanding off the paint for good ground contact. I cut a hole in the aluminum insulation blanket to access it from the outside.
Red cable: crimped on connectors to extend it from fuse box to (+) terminal of battery. BLACK cable: GROUND from battery (-) post to firewall, then to engine block. These connectors take BIG crimper pliers (3 feet long), so I had my new friends at Jupiter Auto Electric do the crimps for me. I then wrapped the crimped connectors with electrical and silicone tape to protect them.
New mounting place for Ground cable: look just above the little loop, I cut a hole in the aluminum insulation and there's a 13mm bolt there in the firewall. That's what I'm using to ground the car from the battery (-) post. I didn't like the wimpy looks of the smaller bolt sticking out of the firewall seen in the factory-punched insulation blanket hole.The other cable end goes straight back to the engine and grounds onto the block at the bellhousing
GROUND CABLE removed from front frame rail: see the green bolt head under the cable loop? that's where it WAS
Alternator-A/C cable extended with big ole crimped-on connectors
FUSE BOX: it used to live on top of the battery. Finger is on the cable that connects to the alternator and A/C compressor
Ready to finalize the dash-top plug box
Cables made tidy with two aluminum straps covered with roofing padding
Cable mess before tidying up
YOU IDIOT! Forgot a couple of plugs, got to run a new 8-18 cable to do them
Harness and splices will live here under the water ball!
new home for wire splices and engine harness
Bundle, label and try to organize a bit
4-29-12 - tomorrow's project: connect all plugs up front
Results of 4 hour thrash on 5 rear plugs to be extended to box above dash
Shrink and solder after crimping this group of wires for ONE plug
Work station for rear wiring work. Plus, you need LOTS of Tony Rice music!
SMALL gauge wires in some plugs requires you to double-over to get it thick enough for a good tight crimp. I think so anyhow. See the one at the palm of my hand? I already bent the others and smoothed them out for the connector.
My wiring log book; I will keep this as documentation forever, in case any electrical trouble-shooting has to be done. It tracks every wire for every plug in every cable. I hope I got em all.
Front plugs A and B DONE
I wll connect this plug I cut from the engine end of the harness to the wires in Cable A I'm holding in my hand. Just go slow and follow your documentation.
Driver's side of the cross-body wiring harness I relocated out of the windshield tray.
Passenger side of cross-body harness I relocated out of windshield tray. I want everything out of there in case it interferes with the G3F windshield
Reusing the VW wiring loom clip that snaps into the studs you see all over the car. I just used a new zip tie, works great.
Repaired VW wiring loom clamp. Just cut off the old loop and replace with a new zip tie.
You can fix this.
To insert Smyth-supplied 8-18 cable through the firewall grommet, I cut off the rubber nipple with a razor blade, then shoved this long punch through until it penetrated the interior lining material behind the grommet. Then, shove a cable through and pull it to the back of the G3F to start extending wires to the two or three plugs in the former engine compartment.
Extending Cable A to Plug A in the front of the car. You can label the cables and plugs anyway you want, I used the alphabet! This heat gun was a bit massive, but worked OK. Watch for when the solder melts in the crimp connector.
I"m cutting these OFF the harness, to go up front. Big leap of faith, but gotta start somewhere.
Simple to start and get some practice for the rest of the wiring job.
4-28-12 Begin the wiring project with the simplest plug, huh?
Simple padded "lift" to keep hoses out of shift mechanism
Tunnel with shift mechanism re-installed
My idea of a tidy tunnel
Bracket with padding so as not to chafe hoses
my cheesy homemade studs make mounting brackets easier: drill, insert long bolt from interior of Jetta, tighten down a lock nut, and VOILA, you have a stud
My careful measuring...hahahahaha
Hoses run amok
Mess of hoses and lines hanging out rear of the tunnel. Now to organize them.
Low pressure A/C line and A/C muffler in their new home
I'll tidy it up when clamping to frame
Clutch line at transmission
HOSES to REAR! Left to Right: 2 to/from Radiator, 2 to/from firewall for heater, vacuum line to brake vacuum canister, hi-pressure A/C line from condensor, small braided hydraulic clutch line
Custom fitting and hose for hi-pressure A/C line. Comes OUT of condenser at front of car, goes UP and back to tunnel, then to compressor on engine.
SUCCESSFUL fitment, the custom low pressure A/C line comes OUT of the firewall fitting and immediately drops DOWN behind battery and into tunnel to head for the rear. Really great having the ugly muffler and pipe OUT of the frnt compartment.
Shortened and modified low pressure A/C line at muffler
Custom A/C and clutch lines made up for me by Mako Hydraulic in West Palm Beach
I HAVE A PLAN! The guys at Mako Hydraulic Hoses gave me some ideaa today. Spent this evening measuring and cutting...
A/C low-pressure fat line and whatever you call that small canister. I'll attach the rubber end of the hose to the engine compressor, then do some cutting and etc. to stretch it up front to the firewall A/C fitting.
Modified clutch fitting and line from firewall fitting behind thebrake vacuum canister
These are my crude but effective tubing tools; an ancient tubing cutter my dad used in the shop, and my hand bender. I straightened the clutch hard line using the bender backwards...carefully. Let's see what I can accomplish at Mako tomorrow.
Clutch line is down there now, see it? Factory rubber block holds it just like it was designed for the task. AND Notice my new connector for the vacuum hose into the brake canister, at tip-top of photo.
Straightened and cut clutch master cylinder line fits PERFECTLY into that hard rubber block at the base of the vacuum canister. I'll attach flex-hose to this line to run to the rear, to the clutch housing.
This part sticks out of the firewall A/C fitting. I wll try to make it and the funky canister disappear.
Fat hose into A/C compressor at engine
Clutch line before modifications. Tightly squiggled part goes on the tranny. We will EXTEND the long straight part of this line from the firewall clutch pedal master cylinder fitting to the rear of the car.
Remove the white fitting from the green stud with a gentle pry by a bigger screwdriver. That releases the entire clutch hydraulic line to play with on the bench or floor
This is your target
See the fitting and hairpin just to the left of my knuckles? I'm holdng a screwdriver that pried it out to release the hose fitting. The black braided hose furnishes fluid to the clutch line from the brake reservoir.
Pry the clutch master cylinder hairpin lock out gently with a tiny screwdriver or pick. Don't go too far or it will SPRING off and fly around under your car... ask me how I know.
Clutch fluid line liberated from the master cylinder fitting right behind that ABS mechanism. HARD to get to, but easy removal once you remove the spring clip holding this fitting in place. The part I am holding goes to the REAR of the car, attaching to the clutch fitting on the transmission housing
All hoses connected at the firewall up front. I put a better (new) connector in the vacuum canister a few days later.
The two heater water hoses and the vacuum hose all lie together across the engine. I'll tidy them up later when I finish the other connections
See that right angle connector I put in the vacuum line? I'm changing the way I set up my brake vacuum line. This is the final version, using 3/8" vacuum hose that runs all the way forward in the tunnel,to the booster canister at the firewall.
Connector with Smyth-supplied 3/4" hose attached with factory connectors. I left the factory bend in the hose.
Second heater hose connects here, after you twist this FAT hose to face forward from the water pump
Attach Smyth-supplied 3/4" hose, run it down from the engine and through the tunnel to the front
stick a connector in there after twisting the hose around to face forward, remember this USED to connect on the firewall up front.
Heater hose at engine, heading forward
Final iteration of fuel tank, radiator, hoses, tunnel pipes
Underview of water pipes & shift box from driver side, before I use that loose P-Clamp to mount the pipe to the upper side of the tunnel
Finished water hoses at the engine, connected to the tunnel-mounted aluminum pipes below
I bought this hose #72204 from Advanced Auto because it fit better between the engine-mounted water hose and the pipe running through the tunnel to the UPPER radiator fitting
Stock donor hose MAY work to connect the pipe leading to the UPPER side of the radiator to the forward-facing water hose you see next to the oil filter (with the blue tape on the electrical fitting)
I used this Smyth-supplied hose 71972 to connect the thermostat fitting to pipe running to the BOTTOM of the radiator up front. See the thermostat pipe sticking out of the engine block just behind my thumb?
Final iteration of fuel tank padding...stick-on padded nylon tape from a roofing supply buddy. Thanks Chris!
Hoses from radiator meet pipes to the rear: Smyth supplied pipes, hoses and small connector tubes too.
Radiator top is 1" higher than the hood latch bracket atop the bumper
Simple stock VW rubber radiator mount, bolts to steel angle, stock donor bolts hold steel angle to massive black bumper
New radiator with donor A/C condensor in front, and fan assembly behind
Driver side rad mount
Radiator mount using hardware store pre-drilled steel angle stock 13" long, 2 1/4" X 1 1/2"
March 12, 2012
Shift tray and components In place, shifter works like silk. Looking forward, from underneath engine
Final assembly of shifter mechanism, ready to bolt up for the last time - FINALLY! Lots of trial fits and teardown/rebuilds
Taped water pipes together for ease of locating under car in tunnel...they kept flopping around on me while under the car trying to wrestle them into correct position.
Computer with wiring mocked in place. Plenty of room at bottom to stash extra wiring and plugs. Looking down from top, driver's side engine compartment
Driver's side frame
Pop rivet all in place
Computer mount at driver side front of engine compartment - seems to be where all the wiring wants to go
Computer mount modified and aluminum plate cut to fit rear frame location
Brace under steeriing column that must be removed
Remember where wires go on dash stack
Paul Buxe and engineer professor David Sheffler from UVA, researching G3F as possible university electric car project
Front bumper temporary mount hole for radiator
Battery box mount blts go here
Battery box and big cross brace in place
Fuel tank in place with rubber corner padding. Tank has to go in BEFORE bolting on final cross-brace. Note front cross brace is already bolted on. You can also see the battery box mount bolted to the firewall, waiting for the battery box to be cleaned up and bolted on.
Fuel tank reinstall: new bottom brace system pop-rivetted in place after cutting off old tab system
Battey box holder installed, cut away some of heat shield to expose already existing bolts on firewall. Mark does not miss a trick in designing to use donor parts that are already there!
Replacement cast aluminum shift box fits perfectly where old one came out.
I fab'd a crude sheet aluminum piece to lengthen my old shift box cover to protect this longer cast shift box. I live on a dirt road, so must seal the shift mechanism as much as possible
Mount location driver side of box: up against the cast rib and just under the cast lip around the perimeter of the shift box. Grind off the part of the lip where you place the laser-cut steel mount
Mount location passenger side of box
I drilled a hole for hairpin spring retainer in shift lever at left...see the hairpin in place?
Cast aluminum shift box all assembled to Smyth specs, parts transferred over from Stamped steel box
Country spray booth for fuel tank mount parts. All hammer coat Rustoleum silver, dries fast
Main shift lever differences.
Note huge difference in atachment points for "reverse" linkage betwen boxes (I don't know if it has anything to do with "reverse", but am just guessing!)
1999.5 Jetta shift box (left), Newer Mk IV shift box (right)
My messy garage is running out of places to store Jetta parts
More Jetta storage: all four doors, door cards, glass, interior trim pieces, engine compartment parts. etc. in G3F garage
Jetta Dash, seats, headliner, trunk liner and floor, etc.
Jetta interior parts stored (along with the Roadster) in Lynn's garage. A disassembled Jetta takes up a lot of room unless you get busy and sell the extra parts on eBay or Craig's List.
It looks messier in a picture; in real life it's as organized as can be... really. I decided to put loose parts in the Jetta carcass until needed.
So, where do you store all the parts until you need them? In the Jetta!
Newest box-o-parts! Coolant hoses, 40-part electric cable, redesigned fuel tank mount braces, misc hardware, and "new" cast aluminum shifter box to replace my earlier stamped steel oddity
Tray showing shift cables running under engine and up to tranny
Drilled out studs at the far rear on each side of tunnel are mount points for front legs of shift cable tray
Tray loosely mocked in positon, hanging from tab on passenger-side rear frame brace
Shift cables under oil pan, and into "tray" to meet shift rods connecting to shift box
Shift cables loosely attached to stock tranny mount points, and curving down under engine
1999.5 Jetta shift box doesn't work as planned! Needs some re-engineering, so Mark is sending me a newer cast shift box
Possible trouble: can't engage the reverse slider on bottom of shift lever...see that rectangular plastic thing in the middle of the shift box? It must go to the bottom of the box, onto that aluminum curved ramp, when the shift lever is depressed and moved to the side like on the shift pattern diagram. Note 6" axle bolt and additional 1" spacer to meet wider sheetmetal shift box dimensions
Locator hole I drilled from underneath to spot the place where I'll drill to attach the big sheetmetal shift cable connector tray. See that weld just to the left of the hole? I'll drill right down the middle of that.
Attach long shift rods to stock short rods which stick out of the flex cable assembly
Other side. Note the sandwich of modified fender washers holding the "reverse" cable in place
Final attachment of cables: modified fender washers for the "reverse" cable held in place with machine screws and locknuts, and put a bolt through the chopped cable bracket on the "forward gears" cable
Clearance needed for bellcranks on sheetmetal shift box
Cut support apart so cables are separate. Now, figure how to attach the "Reverse" cable to the sheet metal tray?
"Siamese'd" shift cables, differ from those in later versions of the Jetta, gotta use some imagination
Hog out cable hole front of shift box to line up with Smyth bellcrank assembly
Drill bellcrank support holes. located supports at 10" from other end of box - hope it'S a good guess!
Modifying sheet metal shifter box for bellcrank assembly. Using my second-favorite power tool: die grinder with cutoff wheel or grinding bit
Stock Smyth bellcrank axle bolt. Perfect for the cast aluminum shift boxes in most Jetta donors...but mine has a sheetmetal box with slightly different dimensions, so I'll need to go 1" longer but keep this orientation of bronze bushings and spacers for the bellcranks
threaded rod assemblies in place cable rods used to live, with retaining spring clips installed
Threaded rod on reverse actuator arm, after drilling hole in ball connector
Drilling ball end - 1/4"
belly pan for shifter box, remove by bending up tabs around perimeter
Shift box with stock cables and actuator rods attached
drop the shifter & shift box right out the bottom!
You only need to remove THESE TWO NUTS up top
Remove these three 13mm bolts on bottom
DON'T remove these three nuts to remove shifter box, unnecessary . DO remove the two nuts at far right of picture
Shifter parts closeup before painting
New Box-o-Parts 1-27-12! Shifter kit, coolant tubes, and a ton of 8-part wire cable
Brace I fab'd using salvaged VW fasteners & scrap aluminum for front of filter mount
Fuel lines run as stock, filter under CAI tube
Diesel fuel filter mocked in place, using threaded hole in motor mount
Fuel tank in place, ready for upper mounts
(NOTE: trial fit here is BACKWARDS! Fuel filler should be on PASSENGER side of car)
Fuel tank mounts in place, with aluminum strap rivetted across bottom because I felt better with it there.
MAP-IAT in place on new intake manifold tube coming from Intercooler
4. Drill out intake tube using Unibit. Drill and tap mount bolts, I used 10-24, 1/4" machine screws
3. Saran Wrap on new intake tube. Filled odified mount with RTV top and bottom, set it on Saran Wrapped pipe overnight, for perfect seat contour on mount.
2. Shape underside of mount to contour of 2" diameter aluminum pipe which replaces the stock plastic intake pipe. I used my die grinder, hand filing was SLOWwwww.
1. Make custom mount fo MAF-IAT sensor: First cut off stock mount fm plastic hose running to intake manifold
make sure turbo plumbing clears rear axle, engine pulleys, and suspension parts.
under-shot from passenger side toward driver side to intercooler "hot" side. See the brake lines up there too, running from driver side across cut section to passenger rear wheel.
Top view turbo tube into intercooler, planning a bracket to secure tubes under frame.
homemade beading tool results. Good enough fo me!
Turbo on far right, pipe goes forward and up to cross over to driver's side intercooler. Used a 45 degree 1 1/2" pipe off stock turbo hose to start the run, then radiator hose and 1 1/2" pipes to complete the run. Note my fab'd aluminum bracket holding the center pipe. I don't know if it'll last, but wanted something to position the tubes.
Fab'd aluminum bracket to support pipe from turbo to intercooler, with repaired brake line above
Homemade bead-maker made from ancient channel locks, just start on the tips with a grinder or hand-file
Cold Air piping to turbo. 2"-2 1/2" 90 degree bend with 1 3/4" adapter at turbo, 2 1/2" cast elbow, 2 1/2"-2 3/4" connector to
2 3/4" stock flex intake hose.
Business end Cold Air intake: stock 2 3/4" flex intake hose to leftover ricer 2 3/4" CAI pipe, to MAF and K&N.
custom CAI, K&N fits perfectly into frame opening...may benefit from a side scoop in bodywork?
Intake plumbing from cold side of intercooler to new driver-side-facing intake
mocking up hot side intercooler plumbing
Turbo hot leg to intercooler: Gotta miss the axle, suspension bracket, brake hose, and all engine pulleys
passenger side rear brake line runs from driver side up and across. Hold in place with a few pop-rivetted clamps.
compression fitting, mating repair line to stock hard brake line. Replacing brake line end I twisted off during disassembly
Intercooler mount on driver side x-frame brace
Passenger side X-bracket subframe brace test fit
X-Bracket frame brace driver side. Drill the two holes on vertical piece, bottom one is already drilled in Jetta frame. Bracket is for stock intercooler mount
Fuel tank bracket loose test fit
NEW BOX-O-PARTS!!! Tubing to build my intercooler flow paths, fuel tank mounting brackets, X-brackets for rear subframe, battery box mount and mystery triangular custom built piece...I'm guessing shifter component.
Driver side brake lines underneath
Driver rear brake new lines installed
Custom stainless steel flex brake hose. Mako hydraulics locally made em for me, $150 for all you see here, stock lengths, all new fittings. Compresssion fitting and short hard line on far right are for a repair i need to make for a booboo.
FUEL LINE Connector: squeeze gently here, they pull right apart
BRAKE DIFFERENCES: TDI/2.0 front brakes on LEFT (these are now being used on the BACK END of my G3F); 1.8T/VR6 front brakes on the RIGHT (these are now being used on the FRONT of my G3F). NOTE: different size calipers, different size pads...buy the correct ones!
Stock air intake & intercooler parts, and ricer intake I will see if I can adapt.
Final hose layout, after eliminating EGR stuff and simplifying connections, plus relay box mounted and wiring harness connected most places on engine.
Damn, there are a TON of hoses coming off that water pump! Twist the big one to go forward
Cut and twist big rear water hose to go forward to the stock heater hose fitting. This hose used to go directly to the heater hose fittings on the cowl, I believe. Vertical hose is the vacuum hose, now going forward to the brake booster, also on the cowl.
vacuum hose array zip tied to rear frame rail, EGR vac tube fittings capped. big vacuum line to brake booster modified to go forward. See it coming off the vacuum pump on the left side of the cam cover?
Rotated water hose from water pump to face forward, did same with rear hose after cutting off one of the bends-these both have to run forward to the heater hose fitt.ings in the Jetta cowl. Also see the revised vacuum hose route off the vacuum pump, now heading forward to eventually meet the brake booster on the cowl.
"preliminary" final water, vacuum, and wiring harness layout
Final mount relay box
Mounting bracket from front cowl, for big relay box. Tapped frame for 1/4-20 bolts. FWIW, it's a NICE mount bracket, automatically latching the relay box in place. Mine's mounted a little crooked, I'll do better next build!
I chiseled out the relay box mount so I could use it in the rear - will make an aluminum plate to hide the ugliness!
5 plugs at rear og G3F that must be extended to front of Jetta
Rear of G3F: Engine harness plugs matching the front A and B plugs - must extend harness to front
Front of Jetta: Engine harness plugs I labelled A and B - must be extended to rear where engine is
Hoses and vacuum lines before simplifying. I eliminated hose "C" (former EGR cooler hose), rerouted hoses "D" & "A", rotated the big water hose under hose "A" so it faces forward, etc.
Adjustable coilover in place, finally
1/2 x 3/8 adaptor ground down to fit slot in steering knuckle: twist with 1/2" driver to expand knuckle and seat coilover
grind the 3/8" nub to 1/4" total width
Temporary iteration of coilover top components. I think this bearing is needed for the steering to work smoothly, will check with Mark to be sure
Bulk of wiring seems to want to live here in the G3F
zip tie vacuum hose and sensor array to rear cross tube, temporarily
Backyard spray booth for brake calipers
Max height of rear sheetmetal
Frame and rear sheetmetal
Frame and rear sheetmetal illustration
Hey You! Don't forget to install this LOCKNUT when you thread in your under frame brace. I did, must remove to fix it.
Trimmed suspension channel near bracket nut plates, to clear frame and under brace
tube to sheetmetal
tube to edge of sheetmetal
from seam on floor to frame tube
height of remaining sheetmetal at rear of tub
measure across flat of remaining rear wheelwell sheetmetal to frame edge
rear tie rod mount
Stick the tie rod in the frame, to lock the rear knuckles straight ahead, more or less.
What do you do with the tie rod?
Rear coilover in place with temporary nuts!
CV joint before repacking with grease and rebolting together
I'm going to rivet it somewhere in the G3F
Here's how you can keep your windshield VIN tag!
P/S hard line under starter
P/S hard line leading to soft hose attached to water hose snaking around engine
Removing P/S pump
coilovers came today!
aluminum cups and rubber bumpers from old front struts. I'll use them to mount the new coilovers up front, pending Mark's approval of the mount technique..
Front suspension parts to attach to K-member
9-11-11 ENGINE IN
TDI Happy in its new home
P/S pump fitting is mean to my frame
Differential case casting is tight dropping engine into frame, be careful not to scratch up your frame as I did to mine.
Lowering carefully, checking often for hangups and frame scratching. Engine mounts are in the way eventually, I removed them a couple of minutes from now
Lowering engine, mounts were removed later as in the way
Hanging straight and square seems to fit into the frame the best
Original install unsuccessful, because of severe engine slant forrward. Had to withdraw engine and re-hang it from lift for straight alignment
ENGINE CLEANING not my favorite thing to do!
The Priustruck hauls the HEAVY communal engine hoist...wish I had a Smyth Jetta Truck instead!
Wood mockup of coilover shock position
D. side detail
Looking rearward from passenger compartment
P. side detail
9-10-11 Final pic installed rear suspension, with arms lifted to normal position
9-10-11 DONE! 10 minute rear suspension installation - you can see ALL FOUR BOLTS holding it to the subframe
9-10-11 Rear suspension lifted into position
9-10-11 Intake and EGR reinstalled
Intake manifold half done with brass wire brush
TDI intake manifold cleaning
I hate these bolts, wierd washer soldered on top
intake disassembly 1
9-10-11 BRASS wire brush made it come up shinier, who knows why
Cleaning the motor mounts. Finished one in foreground using STEEL wire brush , but it got better.
Final iteration D. side subframe brace mount
Final iteration P.side subframe brace mount
9-8-11 Dirty front end, after engine wiring harness removed
"Big Harness" as removed. ECU Plug is on far right, relays in big black box.
"Little" harness, 4 pronged assembly is the glowplug harness. Looped wire on the far left is non-factory accessory, probably not in everyone else's harness. ECU plug is a very bottom
Remind me I cut this wire to separate the harnesses, it's not a factory wire.
non-factory Accessory relay? It runs from engine harnesses to position under dash, grounded to floor by driver foot.
Plastic trough wiring harness lived in, now removed to access motor mount and clean up the place.
9-8-11 Dismount only one wire from this junction box at extreme front driver's side, to free harness from front of car.
two harnesses joined by this plug, so I labelled, pic'd and separated
PLUGS labelled and separated to pull harness from Jetta
5 plugs from front-mounted box in cowl, driver's side
Planned clearance cut to keep Smyth subframe away from Jetta sheetmetal...see how the subframe had folded the sheetmetal down at very top of pic?
How close am I allowed to saw to these captured nuts that hold the suspension brackets at the rear of the Jetta carcass?
Planned cuts, but need to check with Mark to be sure...
planned clearance cut for the subframe
9-8-11 underframe brace supplied with Smyth subframe, mounts to under-Jetta suspension bracket
Scratched my door unnecessarily, bad craftsmanship, shame on me, I'll do better next time.
Weird curves of pot-metal inside door where you cut can mess you up unless you cut smart - I didn't
THIS is why it's so difficult to cut!
Brace to catch upper part of door after cut off
Redneck door-sawing table and clamp
Door-cutting adventure begins with high hopes!
9-1-11 Trial fit bracer-bar
Loose trial fit bracer-bar
Floor jack to support rear weight while bolting at the B-pillar
Pry it to right spot, spin the bolt home, you're done...use the UNTHREADED hole for prying to protect the threads in the bolt hole
Pry with the punch to move frame to exactly right spot for bolting
Test mounted frame loose-bolted
9-1-11 Test mount of rear frame is a success!
SMYTH in cross brace under frame
Passenger side motor mount
Driver side motor mount and ?
Production Frame IN THE HOUSE!
Just fits in the garage, out of the rain finally
Walked frame across yard from trailer parking spot...easier than any other way I could figure. HEAVY and slippery in the rain, so I got some gloves to finish
Using Lynn's car as my tow rig yet again, delivery came to Ernie Bello's Motorsports shop in West Palm Beach, so I HAD to make a lunchtime pickup run