Using the MALM hardware to connect two footboards to form the headboard base.
Linus supervises. This will become a common theme.
Using MALM pegs to connect the two footboards.
Linus makes sure we got all the MALM parts out of the box.
Drilling into the top of the bottom footboard.
We ended up using only two of these pieces in the inner set of holes, reserving the other two bolts for attaching the headboard to the base.
Two MALM footboards connected by bolts and pegs.
We glued the two footboards together and used Bungee cords to hold them while the glue set. The 1x4 lumber is used as a cleat to further secure the layers of the headboard.
Linus checks our work carefully.
“That's a little off!”
Positioning the 1x4 lumber before drilling and screwing it.
The 1x4 lumber screwed in to both headboard base pieces. We would later go back and double the number of screws.
The headboard base, now a single connected unit.
Converting the MALM headboard (with low connection points) to a footboard with high connection points. The piece is constructed like a hollow-core door, so we used 1x4 and 1x6 lumber to transfer the load to the solid frame and then to the floor.
We attached the painted lumber to the solid frame at the bottom and sides of the MALM headboard.
Many measurements to get the screw positions correct.
Fully attached side brace for the new footboard.
Center brace for new footboard.
Dry-fitting the bed frame.
Measure of success: The side rails are level!
Side rail attached to the footboard and headboard base. We haven't attached the headboard to the base yet. The head and foot are reversed while we dry-fit the MALM pieces.
Note how the new attachment points on the center brace echo the original points below.
With both side rails attached, the MALM frame seems sturdy.
We attached the headboard to the base using the same technique we used to build the base from two footboards. After being glued and screwed together, we gave it 24 hours in Bungee cords to set before continuing.
Linus checks our work.
Attaching 1x4 cleats to the headboard-base connection.
Note the additional screws in both the base cleat and the base-headboard cleat. We went back and added additional screws to the base cleat, making them approximately 6“ apart instead of 12”.
The fully-assembled headboard, showing the painted 1x4 cleat. The lower cleat isn't visible unless you're looking under the bed so we didn't bother painting it.
Finally assembling the MALM itself!
Side rails connected to footboard.
Metal frame pieces support the mattress.
Fully assembled MALM bed, ready for slats and mattress.
Mattress in place! Linus approves.
That's a tall headboard.
That's a tall bed, period! The under-bed space will allow for lots of storage.
Note the painted 1x4 footboard brace.
Linus has been a great help throughout.
The MALM-LACK super-hack is essentially complete. The bed is made (with Remy and badger), half-height 15“ Billys serve nicely as bedside tables, and if you look closely you will see the LACK wall unit repurposed as under-bed storage.
The LACK wall unit looks like it was made for this.
It fits perfectly. We added some carpet sliders to the bottom of the LACK to make movement easy. That way we can slide them out to access the “deep” storage in the center.
Starting to get that “lived-in” look. We're looking for appropriate containers to fit in the LACK boxes, but I don't think these two pieces from Target are going to cut it.
Everything works together to make a cohesive, connected bed. We couldn't be more pleased!