Stock 1/18th Scale ERTL 1970 Chevy Nova, soon to become...
This badass "Mofo" from the movie "Deathproof"
Reinstated the area where the air-intakes were. Still needs a good sand. I'll be drilling out the three lugs at the front of the hood.
Reverse shot. Again, this needs a good sand. I've got masking tape in place to protect the ridge down the centre.
Rebuilding the floor pan and the rear seat area. Got some good photos from a site restoring a Nova so this is pretty accurate.
Rear side and roofing panels glued to the metal shell.
Which then clips nicely onto the plastic undercarriage. Note I still need to do a final sand and finish on everything.
Roof detail, from photos kindly furnished by dadadave :) Up until he arrived on the scene I was stymied.
Floor pan. Differences from the earlier photo include side ridge detail, front floor panels, and the rear side areas which were quite curvy and tricky.
Body shell and pan clipped together. Not too worried about the metal half circle mounts near the bottom front of the door well. The roll cage will cover these mounts up.
The original dashboard.Most of the left hand side is gutted on the movie car. I'll keep the glove compartment and pedals.
Original and replacement brake reservoir. Note how out of scale the original was.
Firewall (engine side).
Cut the front panel behind the grill to create the sloped sides present on the original. Will refine the edges with a plastic cap.
Rebuilt the manifold covering the fan belt assembly. This shape is much closer to the original.
New front end. The metal lip thingy in the middle will be detailed later on. There's still some ridge detail to add as well to the new plastic front.
Brackets that attach to the engine cradle.
The cradle brackets in place. Dry assembly. Radiator cap is a new addition.
New battery. I've glued it onto the main metal structure rather than the engine well itself. So far, all the components clip into place nicely.
Engine block. Not yet finished.
Valve covers and breather units. Tacked on with a glue stick as I still need to access the interior to fit the exhaust pipes.
Letters are made of paper, handcut. I'll probably burnish the centre of the "O"s to recess them when I'm feeling steady.
Notice the slight offset on this valve cover which is further back from the front edge than the other. Thanks Jon.
Test of exahust pipe system. 3mm electrical cable.
Exhaust gasket (?) rings. Building the framing around the rings was quite difficult.
Exhaust system. This is about the ninth version of these I've made.
I kept having problems with the 'drop' of the pipes. They weren't lower than the floor of the car so didn't fit.
Seam lines on the pipes can be sanded off and "treated" with Plastruct cement. Dry assembly at this stage BTW.
New Hood. Built to reduce the amount of weight the hood hinges have to take. Haven't put the beading in down the centre yet.
New air filter. The one with the diecast was the wrong style.
The toughest assignment so far. Building a working hood hinge. This is a test piece. Paper clip joints, credit car plastic arms , which is laminated therefore strong but flexible.
Folded position. So far, the joints have survived a reasonable amount of testing without coming loose.
Hood hinge in the closed position.
Open Position. Talk about micro-engineering. Tin sheet, credit card plastic and paperclips.
V2 completed with scaled photocopy references.
The Carburetor.Green metal pieces on the side are from a Berocca Cannister.
Engine front detailing.
Same. Still have to add the guard over the alternator (?)
Preliminary drawings for radiator fan. Thanks Jon. Drawn at 200% then reduced on copier.
Radiator fan. Rivets came from a Tamiya Lee Grant Tank. Five rivets per blade and once assembled you'll never see them.
Reverse shot, showing the two stage construction of the blades.
Fan dryfitted into place.
Rebuilt chassis arms.
Redid the exhaust pipes. Not enough clearance on the other ones for the steering box.
The rear mount (the bit with the hole in it) is too thin. Will bulk it out so the steering arm (when mounted) isn't too long. Companion shot to follow this weekend. I think I'm stretching the bounds of the caption facility here.
Column in place. Dry fit.
Cut ragged holes in the wheel wells as per the film version. Hasn't compromised the structural integrity of the frame.
Initial detailing on the brake reservoir, including bracket to the right.
HEI Distributor and accer super coil cover.
Spark plugs in place. They are free moving and held in place by pin mounts and the coil cover. I need movement for when I fit the wires to the engine.
Stick shift. Dry assembled.
Gas and brake pedals. Used the gas pedal that came with the kit but scratchbuilt the brake as it was a diferent size and shape.
Steel plate dashboard with glovebox from the diecast. The rollbar is tacked in place.
Tape casette player installed. I also cut out a panel in the black dash as per the deathproof car.
Steering wheel. The inner framing is sheet plastic backed by aluminium sheet so it's thin, but strong.
Steering column and indicator stick
Ignition detail. It looks better than this photo shows.
Steering column bracket. Made out of aluminium sheet.
Fitting the doors. First step, cut a hole in the body to receive the hinge.
Next, fit the hinge, chopped down from a pair of sunglasses.
Sunglass hinge epoxied into the door.
Door fitted in place. Ignore the brass tubes. They relate to a failed attempt at another hinge type I was working on.
Door open. the brass tube at the bottom right of the pic holds the hinge in place. The hinge mechanism actually slides along the brass tube, extending out through the hole. Working on a way to make the sliding mechanism more secure.
Doors Part II. I've cut away the fairing at the front of the door well. The hinge will sit on the brass sheet, allowing the door to turn into the body of the car, just like the original.
The bottom edge of the door well is cut away to allow the door to fully turn inwards. If this isn't done, the door keeps pushing out as it pivots on the hinge and nothing works.
Hinge glued into receiving plate.
Hinge pivots in the plate and I glue the plate to the inside of the car body.
Inside door panels.
Window and frame. Dry assembly. One glass piece. Frame is aluminium sheet so it's strong. Note the little dog leg at the top of the vertical frame which helps secure the glass.
New windshield. The glass that came with the kit would have been 36mm thick in 1:1 scale. That's bulletproof, not deathproof :)
Beard racing seat. Still have to put the BEARD logo on the headrest. The slots for the seatbelts near the headrest have been drilled right through.
The rollcage. I figured it would be sturdier to fix it into the metal body shell.
Rollcage front view.
Side view. You can see the light knob Mike uses to flash his victims. Sorry it's out of focus.
Pretty damn pleased with how the cage worked out. I'll 1200 grit the weld seams.
Firewall, with all the wiring, and I do mean all the wiring.
Handbrake, sun visor, and gauges.
Heavily reworked hood underside plus new hood hinges. I took off about 2mm thickness of metal off the hood then reinstated the detail. The hinges (minus springs) were a piece of work!
Hood fitted. Working sprung hinges, able to support the hood.
Rebuilt front end. New hood latch made of brass sheet. Note the stopper with the copper end fixed to the underside of the hood. This fits in the latch and holds the hood down.
22/08/10 Window trim.
22/08/10. Dryfit of the engine. Fanbelt, spark plug leads, dipstick and hosing are the additions.
22/08/10. Window wiper and side mirror. The mirror is real.
22/08/10. The duck. He's reinforced with pins. The smoke is a piece of sewing pin. I made him out of epoxy putty. Smoothed him down with margarine.
22/08/10. Wide angle lens makes him look bigger than he actually is. Pleased with his expression
12/09/10. Rebuilt part of the roll cage cage (the pipes with the square in the centre is what's new) based on a photo of a junked prop from the film. Now the cage is accurate!
19/09/10. License plates. Handcut the letters. Tried molding them but it was a flop.
Added the BEARD logo to the head rest. The letters are handcut, 1.75mm in height.
Indicator light. Cellophane, painted brass color on the inside, then topped with clear plastic surround, scribed to create the frame. Same at the rear except those are red.
New grillwork. Thankfully, the grill on the full size car is a little mangled as well.
Grill Mk II. A vast improvement. Plastic sheet with 0.56mm by 0.56mm strips. Spacing is perfect this time.
Front indicator lights. Textured cigarette paper painted with clear orange and topped with clear plastic.
24/10/10. Racing harness. Used 1500 grit sandpaper, fuse wire, and aluminium sheet (for the buckles)
9/11/10. Reworked hood hinges. The old assemblies shook apart when I hit the car with a motor tool.
1411/10. Added the wedge shape on the end of the hood mounts,plus the springs are in place.
5/12/10. Door attached. Had to fill the gap between the body and the door. Used Aluminium foil, surfacer putty and primer.
5/12/10 They work! Much better than the crap door assembly that comes with most die-casts.
5/12/10 Inside view. Hinge is hidden and this is pretty much how it looks on the real thing. Epoxy putty area still to be sanded and dressed properly.
5/12/10. One more shot for good measure.
25/12/10. New rev counter. The old one was too big. Beard seat fixture, which is accurate. Copper wire and Aluminium. Bolts came from a Sherman Firefly.
Primed bits and pieces.
03/01/11. First time out using Alclad Chrome. Quite pleased with the finish. Photo taken in direct sunlight.
15/1/11. BEARD racing seat. Might do some more highlighting to punch up the form and shadows.
31/01/11. Door panels. Used Floquil Daylight Red and Up Light Orange to create the rust effect.
31/01/11. Tractor seat. It's a grungy grey/metal color.
31/01/11. Stick shift. Came out exactly as I wanted. Red homemade B&M decal on the head of the stick. The readout gauge parallel to the rubber shift area is a piece of adhesive b/w barcode cut to size.
31/01/11. AutoGauge gauges. The two smaller gauges have an white gloss undercoat, topped with a silver nail polish. This gave me a nice color match to the real gauges.
31/01/11. Steering wheel and column. Aluminium sheet spokes, clear coated with Microscale Satin. Car keys are out of shot, but they're there.
31/01/11. License Plate. "TEXAS" is a homemade decal.
13/02/11. Finished engine.
13/02/11. Added a decal to the Accel sparkplug distributor cover.
27/02/11. Engine well painted. Satin Black base, dry-brushed with Tank Grey and a wash of US Military Tan.
27/02/11. Flash photo.
27/02/11. Couldn't resist dropping the engine in to ensure the paint work on the various items matched.
27/02/11. No more painting left in me today.
19/03/11. Front Suspension. Rebuilt pinion bar out of brass tube. The hinges work.
19/03/11. Scratchbuilt a more accurate exhaust system.
03/04/11. Exhaust system. Brush painted. Good color match to the original. Citadel acrylics and plenty of enamel washes.
03/04/11. Painted floor pan. Dirt and rust is art directed, not slapped on, so it closely resembles the real thing. Eye makeup sealed with matt varnish creates some nice, durable effects.
03/04/11. Handpainted roll cage. Still needs weathering. Tamiya titanium silver, topped with Microscale semigloss. Tape cassette player and glovebox, at the rear of shot are finished.
03/04/11. Had to add a bulge to the dash cover on the side closest to the camera. Used a half plastic tube, putty and Mr Surfacer. Still needs a sand-up.
27/02/11. These were flash photos so the color is a bit odd. Haven't put a wash on the firewall. Might do so.
20/04/2011. Replaced the shock absorbers. You can also see my first attempt at weathering the underside using an airbrush. Definitely not finished yet.
24/04/11. Painted underside.
24/04/11. Got a reference photo that showed the wishbone suspension unit rusted up to a dark red-brown. Humbrol 98 is an excellent color for general weathering.
14/05/11. Had to rebuild the rear suspension unit. The film car had single leaf springs, not multi leaf as came with the die-cast. Plastic sheet, aluminium tube construction.
14/05/11. Lakewood traction bars. Built out of U shaped plastic rod glued together. Aluminium sheet for the base plate area.
21/05/11. New suspension installed and painted.
21/05/11. Lakewood traction bars. Made the logo decal. They actually sit parallel to the road, as they're supposed to.
22/05/11. Engine block and exhaust system permanently fixed in place. Still need to blend the single exhaust pipes into the outlet of the array of pipes. Not too worried about the detail around the engine as it will be covered by the skid plate.
28/05/11. Skid plate added. The underside is now finished. I can't add the back wheels yet as they will obscure the screw mounts that attach the underside to the body shell.
12/06/11. Grille installed. Brush painted with Citadel Mithral Silver then a black wash in the recesses. Grille work on the outer side of the lights was done the same way.
18/05/11. Duck, side mirror, and light bezels chromed. The side mirror was a shit to make. Still to install the mirror glass.
24/07/11. Body shell painted with Onyx Black nail polish. Lots of sanding in between coats. Will think about sealing it with clear nail polish.
28/08/11. Window and trim installed. All the "chrome" areas are unpainted sections of the metal body shell polished and sealed with varnish. The only Alclad is on the thin beading around the door frame.
28/08/11. Gauges and the "Camera Man" Perspex box installed. Note the car windows are curved. I heat-formed them in a microwave.
10/09/11. Windshield and wipers installed.
24/09/11. Top and bottom ready to be assembled. It's 1,000 days today since I started.
24/09/11. First decent photo of the finished product.
25/09/11. Happy with the paint finish and the attitude of the duck.
25/09/11. The hood fits nice and flush.
25/09/11. Tractor seat. The fasteners on the glass perspex "box" inside the car are spot on.
25/09/11. Doors open.
25/09/11. Pleased with the way the seatbelts extending out the back of the seat marry up with the rollcage bar.
25/09/11. Drivers side. Hopefully you can see what I mean about the seatbelts marrying up at the back.
25/09/11. The engine is spot on and better still, the hood stays up by itself!
25/09/11. Last shot. By my reckoning, this is the most accurate version of the Deathproof car on the net. Hope that doesn't sound too cocky,