1 of 2 photos of engine. 1600 DP Longblock is NEW from VW/Audi of Brazil. Basically that's everything between the valve covers. Engine has oil filter upgrade on oil pump, and shroud is Scat powder-coated. Exhaust is stock. Intake manifold has urethane seals, much less apt to break down and leak than old rubber type. Oil cooler is new. Engine has less than 2,000 miles on it, using only Quaker State Ultimate Synthetic oil after initial break-in for which I used Castrol GTX.
Rear deck area above transmission well where leaky window seal caused water damage. The black area you see has been power-wirebrushed and coated with POR-15. To continue this work, Red sisal sound-absorbing material should be removed, metal wirebrushed and POR-15'd, and covered with felt+rubber soundproofing material (a generous supply of which will be included with the car)
When a classic car has "new paint" on it, watch out. New paint hides a lot. This paint looks to be about ten years old, so it's a lot more revealing of the true condition of the car. Click magnifying glass icon to see more detail.
Click magnifying glass icon to see more detail.
The 5-bolt 'mag' wheels I used are EMPI by American Eagle - seriously great quality, true-running and excellent finish. They can accept stock-size tires and also the wider 145 SR 15's. The stock-size high-performance Signet radial tires are new as of Fall '06 and have less than 1,000 miles on them. Click magnifying glass icon for close-up detail. Black wheel has some wax streaks on it, I should have done a better job buffing.
Notice the rust-bubble on the driver's door. Strangely there is a similar bubble on almost the same spot on the passenger door. When it comes time for repainting the car, be sure to treat the affected section, see the rear deck photo for details.
In 1959, Volkswagen brought in designers from the Ghia design group to assess the styling of the Beetle. They looked at it from every angle and said; "You would be crazy to change those lines. Keep that shape."
Second photo of engine. Or is it third? Note absence of fuel pump - that is electric and in transmission well. Laser-cut Scat pully makes timing easier. Customized Bosh SVDA distributer from aircooled.net has best advance curve for new (not rebuilt) 34PICT-3 carby. Note fiberglass wraps on heat risers. Air cooler is new paper type from VW of Mexico, makes changing filter a breeze.
The concept is a 2-tone black & gray interior. I installed very nice Procar 90 velour seats in the front. These have headrests (stock did not), and they recline fully in case you want to take a nap sometime.
The back seat is in black vinyl that will hold for now. The head lining in the rear of the car is obviously water-damaged but there's no point fixing it until the rear window seal is replaced (see Glass). Do the back seat in gray vinyl or velour and you'll have a really spiffy interior. I also have a pair of PVC kickplates for the front of the interior (they go where your feet strike the interior). They replace the front carpeting (good), and have space for drilling and mounting the speakers. These panels are included but you get to install them. I'll even throw in the speakers, an awesome pair of Infinity reference car speakers waiting to be mounted, and an Audiobahn fm/cassette stereo still in its package.
Small rust-spot at lower-left of exterior front windshield. Covered with gasket silicone, which is easy to remove when seal-replacement time comes. (and do rust remediation at the same time. See rear deck photo for information.) I was surprised how well that gasket silicone trick (not the regular kind) works to freeze corrosion on a spot until you can get to it and do remediation) The bit you're seeing here has been in place for three years. Yet it comes off easily for bodywork.
Small rust spot at body joint near passenger door hinge, sealed with gasket silicone, waiting for next paint job and rust remediation. Dark stuff at left of chrome trim is crud - car needs a bath.
Interior view. Note instrument panel at left, awaiting tach and voltmeter or whatever. Panel could be left black crinkle or painted blue. Kickplate carpet awaits replacement with (included) custom PVC fitted speaker mount panels. Note some rust near heater vents, should receive some wirebrushing and POR-15 at some time. heater does work but as we all know, type 1 VW's did not win awards for their heaters so you should consider installing a blower.
Pedal cluster assembly. Could use new rubber foot pads, but has been kept oiled and works fine. Notice the new-style water-catching custom German floormats.
New Procar rally seats, recline fully, have headrests, magazine pocket on rear, are very comfortable. Aircraft style belts are new.
Water damage to interior from leaking rear window seals. Red sisal soundproofing mats should be removed, wirebrush and POR-15 applied to prevent rust, and felt/rubber soundproofing mats installed. (A generous supply of the latter material is included)
Trunk with spare. It's hard to take a picture of a black object in daytime - you can see more detail on an LCD monitor than a CRT.
Bottom of spare tire well is dirty but solid, needs a good scrubbing and some POR-15. Note someone's riveted repair under washer reservoir. It was there when I bought the car and looked solid enough, so I have not touched it.
Detail refurbished gas tank. I cleaned out interior to bare metal, relined tank, repainted exterior with POR-15, this is better than a new tank by far. Tire pressure sticker is original, I masked it when painting the tank.
Specialty tools for this car. Clockwise from left; 10/13 mm VW wrench, pliers, extra bit of fuel line, feeler guage, Snap-On/Plumb wheel lug tool, some bailing wire, spark plug wire pulling tool, 13mm special tool for valve adjustments, Endres-multi-screwdriver, carb adj screwdriver, roll of tape, special mag wheel tool, original VW lug tool, and cloth bag.
More tool kit items
Rust details on L side of car. At upper right is the previously-mentioned bodyjoint spot. Note a little surface rust on edge of fender, and two bubbles on door awaiting next paint job and remediation.
Surface rust on pan. Should be wirebrushed, POR-15'd, and undercoated. Be sure to apply oil to body fastener threads BEFORE applying POR-15.
Repair of that spot under the battery that always rusts out (and this was no exception). Repair is heavy galvanized steel, sealed in place with epoxy resin and and latex, and painted with POR-15. Then interior lined with fiberglass and POR-15. Battery will not rust this spot again.
Transmission well. (Shows up much better on LCD screen) Visible are new axle boots, KYB gas shocks, urethane transmission mounts, electric fuel pump. Not shown is Holly fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter, also mounted in transmission well.
Small dent at RF bumper mount. Note surface rust on bumper: these need rechromed, or what would look even cooler, stripped and powder-coated.
Small dent on LR fender never bothered me, but definitely iron it out next paint job time.
Window seals are 41 years old - obtain from Mid-America Motorworks and replace!
I think this is the spot on the rear window where water leaks in. Window seals are 41 years old. Obtain from Mid-America Motorworks and replace!
Window seals are 41 years old. Obtain from mid-america motorworks and replace!