Started a new job. This foundation has been sitting for quite awhile (more than a year). It was originally a 10 car garage, but the people we are building for bought it after it was poured and had a rambler designed for it. We had to pour footings for a shearwall, and then small 6" stemwalls.
We are epoxying (can expoxy be a verb?) the rebar into the existing wall. We did the same for the 3 bars in the footing. This whole house gets underfloor heating, so that is why we are putting in the 6" wall for the shearwall to sit on. We poured the footing early and stiff, and will pour the rest this afternoon.
Day 1: snap lines get set up. All of these walls will be framed in the dirt and lifted in. We'll set trusses and then get the roof on. Then we can put foam down under the slab, the in floor heating guys can come in and then concrete. The only guys who'll deal with the weather will be the framers and roofers, the toughest guys on any jobsite :-)
Betto's back from Mexico for good! Perfect timing, we have the work.
A lot of lineal feet of wall framing to do. Whoever did the concrete though did a nice job. It is all withing 1/8" of level.
Not too bad. We snapped lines, drilled out the sill and got a little framing done. There is 350 lineal feet of exterior walls (including garage openings).
Betto was cutting all the 2x8 studs to length for this job. We are using 2x8 walls instead of 2x6, but I'll get to that later.
We were supposed to get a storm and lots of rain, but we got sunshine instead.
2x8 walls, but the material was just gorgeous. The plates are select structural so very small knots and tight grain.
It is quite windy in this valley, so we couldn't use a chalkline to mark the top of the studs on garage. The concrete was very flat, but we shot in the corners and intermediate points with the Stabila rotary laser, and then just ran a dryline and measured the studs in. It wasn't as slow as it sounds and the wall is nice and flat.
Those topplates are going to be dream to walk on when we set trusses.
The downside to 2x8's is trying to straighten the walls. We had to use the forklift to move the other walls to plumb because we couldn't rack the walls.
Kyle is in the "office".
We'd have had the garage framed, but the glulams were too short.
Setting the garage header. We try and do as much to it before setting it as possible.
I'm cutting out the concrete in the doorway so the in floor heating can pass through. The entire slab living and garage will be heated.
It was windy enough to keep the dust moving away from me, but I should have worn a mask.
A little bit of action.
We are a little more than a week behind on trusses. It took a long time to get the engineering done, not because there is anything weird, the engineering firm was busy.
Braces to the right nailed down to stakes in the dirt.
We are getting batches of trusses as they are built and loaded. Tomorrow we'll get the girders that span the 45 dogleg. Then probably Tuesday we'll set the scissor through the middle of house out the back with a boom truck and maybe the barn style in the garage. End of next week hopefully we'll be ready for the roofers, then the radiant guys can come in and the slab get poured.
We are trying out the MiTek truss bracing and love it. No dealing with long 1x or 2x bracing. As we go we brace and its all nice and stiff.
A gorgeous morning. This is a jobsite that is a pleasure to come to. It is really a beautiful spot. We set this girder to start the morning.
Started the morning setting the girder on the left and those two commons.
Then we set this monster 4 ply girder with 2x12 bottom chords. This girder eliminated the need for beams and a post in the garage and will carry the gambrel style trusses for this section of the garage.
We got the bigger girders that span the doglegs so we can roll the rest of the commons.
It felt really good to have a 4 man crew today. It feels like a more productive day (which it is) when we finish and look back.
These MiTek truss braces made rolling trusses much easier and faster. No dealing with 12' 1x3s to keep the trusses on layout. We checked and we were to the 1/16" on layout using these braces. Plus we won't have to layout trusses 24" oc for sheathing. The blocking will do that at the bottom, the Mitek Stabilizers will do that mid distance and then the 2x4 we nail up at the top of the center webs will hold the top.
I unloaded the gambrel trusses out of the truss truck. We'll set these on Monday.
Not too bad for two days and not having all the trusses. End of next week, we should be sheathed and the following week we can work inside prepping for the slab.
We braced off the garage and started setting the gambrel trusses.
We added 3 more plates for this section of garage to get an 8' door for the owner.
This time of year we get sunbreaks and showers, which makes for great views. But it also makes for wet/sun/wet/sun which is no fun.
Concealed flange hanger for the porch beams. This is the new Paslode gun and it is really a nice gun, very comfortable to use.
We just finished the section that runs through the middle of the house. We set those 12-12 trusses one at a time with the boom truck.
And then the rain came . . . . . . . .
I don't know what these are called, so we called them mono jacks. We set the largest 3 per side with the forklift instead of having the crane come back.
They fit pretty well. I was a little concerned that it would be a time consuming process, and it was to a degree, but not too bad.
We blocked the tails for the closed soffits and hung fascia. Then we sheathed the back of this dogleg and the front, then we'll focus on the scissor area so we can over frame the valleys.
It was supposed be raining today, but the storm went around us. We had high winds all day, which made sheathing tough, but we'll take the sun & wind over drizzle anyday.
About 3 jacks per side for the overframing, not too bad.
Yes, we did cut the sheathing there at the bottom of the valley to make it fit better. Its perfect now :-)
Two overframed valleys. The lower section is a 24-12 and the upper is a 4-12
I prefer to lay the ridge over the top of the sleepers.
One jack will land on the 24-12 side of the roof.
We used the Big Foot w/swing table to cut the 63.5° bevel for this jack.
Slope on the steep sections there is 24-12.
Betto is installing about a million hangers for the floor joists.
It seemed to be much easier to tack the rafter to the truss and then plumb up and get the length and the wall heights.
Kyle dwarfs the dormer
150 sheets of 2" XPS insulation for the slab.
We went section by section and laid the plastic, then the foam, then taped it.
Finishing up the garage and then we'll lay the wire mesh.
Mesh is down and you can see the insulation beveled on the sides.
Even the garage has in-floor heating.
4700 sq ft of slab will go in today. The concrete guys are starting the garage and will work through the house. Last count I heard was about 60 yds.
We starting hanging the 1" DOW foam insulation. We hand nailed it with 3" cap nails. In hindsight I'd have used the cap stapler with have with 2" staples since the rainscreen will also be fastened and help hold it.
Because of the radiant, we are gluing the walls down with PL polyurethane glue and shooting nails through the plate into the concrete no more than about 1 1/4".
We are using Zip tape for the flashing on this job for a few reasons. One is that there are no issues between the tape and the foam, and the other is that after the tape is J rolled, it won't peel off. Other flashings have and with the homeowners living onsite, I really don't want it peeling off.
Taped the seam on the foam with Dow tape, then the Zip tape.
Then the corner tape.
J roll it all.
Caulk the back of the flange on the sides and top, not the bottom.
Set the window, just don't get caulking on your fingers.
This is one of three Stiletto prybars that works perfectly for adjusting windows during install.
Check the window for level.
I was going to set the windows with 2 1/2" roofing nails, but couldn't find any so we used 2 1/2" screws.
Once the bottom is centered and level and each corner fastened, Betto checks the window for plumb.
He fastens the top corners next.
He is checking the bottom to make it straight and Kyle is adjusting on the inside.
Then he puts two screws in to hold that and nice and straight.
Flash the legs next.
J roll it.
Because the wall was held in, we used 1x8 (we had it left over) to frame the opening. This way the bottom flange on the slider hangs to the outside of the concrete.
We set the 1x in a bed of PL sealant then nailed through the foam into the framing.
We'll set the slider into the bed of sealant as well.
All four corners are fastened then Kyle runs a string to keep the strike side dead straight and Betto does the fastening.
We then flash the window like normal.
To change up the front elevation, the designer wants the top to appear to "jut" out and be supported by corbels (6x8's). So we are framing a 2x8 wall on the outside of the gable truss.
Then we put up the foam, and then we'll side it board and batten style with LP Smart Side.
We have a dry day so we are starting the siding. We installed the 24" vented LP soffit, then screen at the bottom, then we install the 1x4 batts for the rainscreen. Next time I'll try and find 1x3 to save a little money. We are nailing it on with 3 1/4" gavl nails through the batts into the studs.
Here Kyle is folding the screen up and stapling it to the batts. I think the rolls were 100 or 150' long.
This is a learning process for us, but if we did this again, I think we could "batt" this section it in 30 minutes (assuming the soffits were in). If/when it becomes code, at least we'll have worked some of the bugs out.
We installed the trim with a 3/16" gap all around the window and then we fill that gap with backer rod.
What I did was cut some 3/16" shims to keep in my bags to gap it evenly.
I cut the nozzle about 5/16" or so and nearly straight. The trim protrudes past the window about 5/16".
Slipsheets at every joint and seams staggered 32".
When we installed the batts, we held them 1" away from the window so we'd have 1" to nail to with the siding. This should allow any water that gets past the siding at the window to drain straight down.
The little Max HP siding gun, nice and light.
The gable vent partially done. I have 3 of these to build.
The 1x2s are spaced by the reveal. Kyle weaves the corners by marking the backside of the shingle (at the corner) then cutting it with the jigsaw.
No belt hook.