Jason and myself went on a two week climbing trip to Yosemite in California. We left Los Alamos on Friday after work and arrived in Tuolumne Meadows on Satruday afternoon. Our first climb was the Regular Route on the Third Pillar of Dana. On Sunday morning we got up and did the couple hour approach to the start of the climb. On the way we were greated by some nice scenery.
After a while we got up on the Dana Plateua. Jason got this nice picture of Mt. Dana across the way. The top of the Third Pillar of Dana is behind us.
View of the Third Pillar of Dana. The route goes along the left side but then gets on the face at the top. The standard route is 5 pitches, but we opted to do the optional start for 6 total pitches.
Jason starting up the route. The top of the route can also be seen.
Jason belaying me up to the top of the first pitch and the normal start.
Laybacking up the second pitch.
Several pitches up on the awesome granite!
Looking East with Mono Lake in the distance.
Jason standing on a huge flake after climbing through a sweet 5.10a section.
Making my way up the 5th pitch. Check out the exposure!
Finishing up the last pitch. This picth had some really nice climbing on a steep face. Once at the top, you are on the Dana Plateau making for an unique finish.
View down the route from the top. If you look closely you can see some other climbers on the route.
Standing on top of the Third Pillar of Dana with Mono Lake in the background.
Looking up the valley that we hiked up in the morning. The climb is up and over the ridge on the left side of the photo.
On Monday we go up early and beat the crowds to Lembert Dome. Here is the veiw into Tuolumne Meadows from the first pitch of Crying Time Again (5.10a, 6 pitches).
Working up the first pitch. This pitch was a slab route with an attention getting friction traverse. The other pitches followed good features and were very protectable.
Jason working up the 4th pitch
We linked up the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Here I am going up the 4th pitch. Where one could not place pro, there were bolts.
View of Cathedral Peak with unknown climbing from Crying Time Again.
Jason working up the 5th pitch. Steep face climbing.
Almost to the top of the 5th pitch. The last pitch continued up the steep face (5.10a) with bolt protection.
The top of Lembert Dome
The descent off of Lembert dome was simply walking down the backside of the dome.
Since we still had time left we drove over to Daff Dome. Here I am leading the first pitch of Cooke Book (5.10, 5 pitches).
Cooke Book for the most part followed this corner system to the top.
The climb had tons of great liebacking.
From the top of Daff Dome, we had a great view of Mt. Conness, a peak that we climbed last time we were in Yosemite.
Looking in the other direction, you could see Fairview Dome. We climbed a couple of routes on this dome during our stay.
Tuesday morning we went back to Daff Dome to climb West Crack (5.9, 5 pitches). We wanted to climb West Crack the day before, but there were too many parties already on and waiting for the climb. We arrived early enough that there was no one else around. The climb ascends the crack going from the lower left to the middle right of the picture.
This route just ascending a really nice crack the entire way.
Excellent gear placements and fun climbing made this a very enjoyable climb.
To get off Daff dome requires two single rope rappels, with the second rappel being free.
After climbing West Crack we went over to Medlicott Dome and climbed Shagadelic, a 5.8 3 pitch route. The first pitch, picture below, starts out climbing a corner systems then goes up a slabby face with bolts.
Jason almost to the top of the first pitch.
The second and third pitches climb this knob covered face. These pitches are entirely bolt protected. From a distance this face does not look like 5.8, but once you started climbing it, there were knobs everywhere. Extremely fun!
And the pitches were long. Jason just enjoying the knobs!
Making my way up.
Only half way up the 3rd pitch.
Jason pulling on a knob.
View from the top of the 3rd pitch. There is another pitch to the top of the dome.
Me with views of Tenaya Peak (next to my left shoulder) and Lake. Half dome can be sceen behind the lake.
On Wednesday we went with Mark and George over to the Low Profile Dome to climb the Golfer's Route. Unfortunately that was already taken, so Mark and George got on Darth Vader's Revenge (5.10a). Here George is leading up the first pitch.
George belaying Mark up.
Mark leading the second pitch.
Running it out!
Almost at the top.
Same spot but from a different angle.
Jason and myself climbed Shit Hooks, a one pitch 5.10b.
View from Low Profile Dome with our rap lines.
Later that day we went back to Daff Dome. Here Mark and George are getting ready to do West Crack. It slants up to the right from where they are standing. Jason and mysef went around the corner to climb Crescent Arch.
Crescent Arch (5.10b) follows the arching system of dihedrals and roofs for 5 pitches.
I lead the first picth to a crappy belay stance. At least I was in the shade! You can see the 2nd and part of the 3rd pitch continuing up the corner system.
There was lots of laybacking up this route.
Jason making his way up the 4th crux pitch.
Past the hard stuff and almost to the top of the pitch. This was an exciting but fun pitch. Good hold and protection.
Looking up at the business pitch.
At the top of the climb. Fairview Dome in the background.
Jason at the base of the west-facing route, Lucky Streaks (5.10d, 6 pitches) on Fairview Dome. The route follows the obvious arcing line to the steep crack directly above Jason on the skyline.
Seconding the first pitch.
Leading the 5.10a sustained finger crack of the second pitch.
Jason laybacking up the second pitch.
Crack climbing up to the crux of the 2nd pitch.
Looking up the “business pitch” as we called it. The third pitch started with steep, awkward 5.10d finger crack to sustained 5.9 laybacking with the occasional 5.10a/b moves thrown in to keep it interesting.
Getting past the crux section of the 3rd pitch.
Jason making his way up the 4th pitch. Fun climbing up the crack system.
Not a great shot of Bill leading the wide crack and fun 5.8 layback stuff on the final, sixth, pitch.
At the top! A short scramble from the top of the sixth pitch brought us to just below the summit of Fairview Dome. The tops of all the domes offered great views of the surrounding terrian.
Looking back at Fairview Dome
Looking back up the route on the descent. Looking closely you can see the two Austrian parties on the route.
After climbing Lucky Streaks we left Yosemite and camped near the trailhead for a climb on the Incredible Hulk. The next morning we woke early for the 5 miles approach hike. The climbing formation on the left side at the top of this drainage.
Good view of the Incredible Hulk formation.
The Red Dihedral route (5.10b, 12 pitches) is on the right side of the peak. The very obvious, long, skinny dihedral in the middle of the route is obvious.
Looking up the route. Two pitches gain the amazing and sustained red dihedral above.
Leading up the 2nd and 3rd pitches to the base of the red dihedral. This pitch has intersting laybacking and cracks.
Jason coming up the 2nd pitch.
Looking up a clean crack system on the upper half of the second pitch. The red dehidral corner system is obvious above me.
Looking up at the sustained 5.9 hand crack and dihedral. The 5.10b bulge move at the top felt easy compared to the sustained nature of the dihedral. This was a long pitch also!
Starting up red dihedral pitch.
Nearing the top of the dehidral
Leading up the fourth pitch started out with airy and exposed 5.7 on fabulous flakes.
Looking across the face of the Incredible Hulk down the approach valley.
Jason leading up the shattered pillar crack (5.9) on the 8th pitch.
Looking down from the top of the beautiful crack.
The higher we got, the better the view got. The high Sierras are just amazing.
Leading the seventh pitch of mostly easy climbing with a short section of 5.8 laybacking somewhere in there.
Jason almost to the saddle before the drop to the NW side.
From the ridge we third-classed it on blocky terrain over to the dirdty, blocky 5.8 chimney on the left in this photo.
The final move on the climb is gonig through this tiny hole.
Cool looking lake. It was just sitting up higher than the surrounding terrain.
Looking down the valley as we headed back to the trailhead.
Final view of the Incredible Hulk
After climb the Incredible Hulk, we drove back to Yosemite and took a rest day. The next day we climbed the Hobbit Book (5.7 4 pitches) on Mariuolumne Dome. The climbing was mellow, but very enjoyable. As a bonus, the dome is much higher than the surrounding ones, so the view was stellar. The route follows the huge corner system for the most part.
Jason leading up the first pitch.
On the second pitch. Nice crack system.
The third pitch moved out onto this face with a ton of flakes. The holds were all super positive.
Looking down the flake face.
This climb had everything.
It even had a roof to go around!
Check out the right arm. Super crimping!
Views from the top. Looking towards Lake Tenaya Lake.
Tenaya Lake and Half Dome
Fairview Dome and the higher terain of Yosemite.
Looking at Touloumne Meadows and Lembert Dome.
Jason on the descent.
This is a good view of the Hobbit Book. It climbs the huge corner system in the center of the photo.
We ventured down into the valley one day to climb Half Dome. This was 6 mile approach in. We started in the dark, but got up to Half Dome to see the morning sun on it.
We decided to climb the classic Snake Dike Route (5.7, 8 pitches). The route ascends the lower angle face just right of center. After the 1st pitch it climbs dikes directly the top.
We took a small rack as there was not a lot of spots to place protection. This is a runout route, but has bolts in the necessary places.
Leading the first pitch. The route goes to the left of the roof.
Jason working his way up the first pitch. Yosemite Valley is in the background.
Jason lead the second pitch. It has an exposed friction traverse section.
You just have to trust your feet on this stuff as there are no hand holds.
The rest of the route just follows this dike to the top. There is about on bolt per pitch, but the climbing is no harder than 5.4 on the dike.
Jason working his way up the dike.
These were long pitches, but went fast becasue of the easy climbing and lack of pro.
Looking down. This dike was awesome!
More of the same.
Jason was even able to stem between two dikes.
After the roped climbing ended the 4th class to the top went on forever.
Still working up. El Cap and the valley in the background.
Finally at the top. Me standing above the steep West Face.
Jason enjoying the airy view.
We descended the standard route down the cables. The park service puts these cables to help people up to the top of Half Dome.
I was suprised how steep these were. I wonder how many people get stuck on top becuase they are afraid to come back down?
Look up at the cables.
Half Dome. What a wonderful rock formation.
We passed by many waterfalls on the way back down. We also passed them on the way up, but it was dark.
We meet up with Aron on our last climbing day in Tuolumne and climbed the Magical Mystery Tour on Fairview Dome (5.9, 4 pitches). The route goes up the corner system and then moves to the knob filled black steak.
Aron lead the first pitch.
View from the base.
Catherdral peak poking up.
Aron making the crux moves of the first pitch.
Jason lead the second and third pitches.
Aron crimping with the hand and edging with the tool
Jason has mad belaying skills.
Jason leading the third pitch. He really ran this one out as he missed one of the two bolts on the pitch.
Aron working his way up the featured face.
These two guys are having fun.
One last view of the route.
On the way back to Los Alamos, we stopped by Red Rock near Las Vegas to climb Dream of Wild Turkey (5.10a, 10 pitches). Jason took this awesome sunrise picture on the way to the climb.
Morning sun on the rocks.
The Black Velvet Wall. There are a number of fine climbs on this wall includeding our route, Dream of Wild Turkeys.
We opted to climb the three-pitch route called “The Gobbler”, 5.10a, to avoid the first three pitches on “Dream of Wild Turkeys”. Jason climbed the three pitches on each route, and recommends “The Gobbler” instead of the first three pitches on “Dream of Wild Turkeys”.
Nearing the top of the 1st pitch.
Bill heading up the second pitch of “The Gobbler”. A bolt to the right protects the crux of this pitch.
Still working up the second pitch.
Jason making his way up the corner system.
The third pitch is a bolted face climb. Just looks at all the features, but it is still 5.10a.
The forth pitch goes up an off-width chimney to a slabby 5.10a face moves section to the anchors.
Jason working through the slabby friction moves to the anchors.
On the 5.10a fifth pitch. Slabby moves to steep, featured face climbing.
Leading up the sixth pitch. Nice crack for protection with sweet edging on the face.
Seconding the sixth pitch.
Simply excellent climbing. Lots of flakes and edges to choose from.
On the eighth pitch--super fun face and plate climbing.
Getting close to the top. This route works up high on the face.
Rappelling down the route and then off the huge roof below “The Gobbler” went very smooth with no stuck ropes!