Colors look good in the snow!
Plans printed and taped together
Paper panels taped to styrene sheet for cutting
Note allowance for 1/4" seam overlap
Styrene templates cut with knife and edges sanded.
Ready to cut panels. Note the heavy steel weights to hold everything down securely. No need to hot cut Icarex as it is coated and does not fray easily.
For long straight panel edges best to cut against straight edge instead of template
Another panel to cut
Cut panels ready for taping.
General taping process is to weight one panel and apply seam tape. Line up second panel and weight it. Fold back second panel and remove tape carrier paper. Carefully lay panel back down onto tape. Press lightly every inch then gently rub down seam.
Another seam example. The key is gentle even pressure and no puckers or winkles.
To avoid shadow seams (light over dark fabric), the white LE panel is taped last from back of sail.
Long narrow panels are folded back onto themselves and taped in two steps.
Wide panels are folded open like a book and laid gently back down.
A finished sail panel. Nice even seams, lays flat, no puckers. Note all the shadow seams on the back.
Almost no shadow seams on the front of sail.
Need two sail halves.
Sail is all taped. Accurate templates make for accurate sails.
Sail panels are stitched with 5mm 3-step ZZ. Sew short seams first to be overlapped and locked by longer seams. Minimize passes through machine to reduce wrinkling fabric.
5MM 3 step ZZ stitching closeup
3MM ZZ stitch for mylar and dacron reinforcements
Mylar and Dacron sail reinforcements taped and sewn.
Trailing edge preparation: Cut 3/4" ripstop strips. Fold strips in half lengthwise. Set crease on table edge. Add seam tape.
Tape TE strip to table on both ends under slight tension to hold straight
Start at tip and slowly stretch sail trailing edge onto ripstop TE and press down unto seam tape. Keep sail fabric under light but firm tension. Be precise with no puckers or wrinkles allowed.
Now fold top of TE binding down onto sail. Press down lightly ever inch then go back and rub down seam.
When TE is released, sail will snap back into place taking TE binding with it.
Trim edges and do both sides. Sew with 3mm ZZ. Leave room for leach line pocket.
Super glue leech line to 1/16 fiberglass rod to fish line thru TE tunnel.
Inch leech line thru TE. Small crinkles helps TE lay flat.
Pull leech line thru both sides. Leave 3" at tips and 6" at keel.
Prepare LEs. Tape and fold 3" hem at tips. Fold strip lengthwise. Set crease against table edge. Apply seam tape.
Use 1/2" punch for frame cutouts. Use firm square whack with weighted hammer on solid surface.
LEs are ready for sail. Make right and left sides!
Tape LE to table at both ends pulling taught.
Start at tip, pull sail taught and press into seam tape. Proceed smoothly and accurately. No puckers or winkles allowed.
Release the nose and allow sail to lay flat. Press second run of seam tape press down now.
Add 3" of seam tape at tip. Fold up leech line end. Add 250# Dacron tension loop.
Gently press top of LE down onto sail lightly every inch or so.
Now pull LE taught at nose and rub down seam firmly. Use very firm tension.
Trim the nose and attach LE to other side of sail.
Sew LE with 4mm 3 step ZZ. Note double stitching and locking straight stitch at tip. Very strong, you could tow your car with that loop :)
Sail checkpoint. Edges complete and ready for nose.
LE cutouts closeup
Nose pieces: Dacron against sail. Nylon Cordura cover. Insignia tape strips to finish edges.
Tape Dacron then tape Cordura over top.
Trim edges, add insignia strips, sew with 2MM ZZ stitch. See notes further down as ended up with alternate nose design for better LE support.
Keel velcro keeper. 7" folded dacron strip. 2.5" velcro pieces. Tape and sew sub assembly with straight stitch. Leave tunnel on loop side for spine.
Sew keeper to back of keel with straight stitch. Careful not to snag leech line.
Ready for stand off reinforcements.
SO Dacron reinforcement taped, sewn, and holes punched.
Basic sail is all sewn and ready for framing.
Yes you are seeing double. Two sails made, one will be Std and one UL.
Skyshark framing from other projects. Should be able to cobble a frame together from this...
Prep fittings. Drill for Nitro tubes. Should be snug but moveable under firm pressure. Thin walls for covered LEs. Use bench grinder. Stock APA in center, CAs for upper, DB lower.
Drill center T for larger Nitro ferrule.
Ferrules are P100 sections with solid .2400 carbon centers. Use super glue for all joints. Note beveled edges of ferrules.
Cut tubes with Dremel cutoff wheel. Breathing clouds of carbon dust not considered healthy.
Mark tubes with sharpie. Use connector to line up stopper for gluing.
Use dental pick to open joint for super glue to penetrate.
The finished frame. Nitro LEs and spreaders. 5PT spine. 3MM standoffs.
Insert finished spine into nose pocket, pull sail taught and mark for center T cutout.
Use new sharp blade, washer and ruler as cutting guides.
Use steady hand. This is not a good place to slip with blade.
Use lighter flame to finish and seal edges. Try not to melt the rest of the sail.
Insert spine extension. All Blue Moon fans will recognize this tail setup.
Tail velcro folds up nice and neat.
Front view of newly installed spine.
Install LEs in sail and tie tip tension line. Standard Blue Moon method.
Tie leech line with surgeon knot. I like quiet kites so have tightened lines 1/2" to add tension. Alternately leave line loose, use adjustable tension, or clip baseball cards to TE for desired noise effect.
Tuck leech line tails thru closure strap and thru spine tunnel. Nice and neat.
Moonie tape used for rub patch.
Rub patch installed centered on upper spreader contact point with spine.
Install yo yo catchers as desired. Blue Moon config used here.
Sail and framing finished. Time for the bridle.
Upper LE detail
Lower LE detail
Center T detail
Tip detail. Vinyl cap finishes nicely.
Back of kite
As the upper spreader pulls the LEs towards each other, the nose was replaced with Tim Benson Superfly config which offers better lateral support. Same materials as original nose.
Sewing pattern for new nose. The spine pocket is 3/4" wide. Spine was shortened 1/4" at nose to keep alignment the same.
Nose folds up nice and neat
A grasshopper perspective
Front on view
Tools to make bridle. 200# spectra cored bridle line used. Start with uphaul adjustment leaders. Use highly acclaimed TLAR methodology to space knots every 1/4".
Tie leader above fitting with cow hitch.
To make Blue Moon 3 point bridle, start with outhaul leader.
Attach leader below fitting with cow hitch and adjust length per specs.
Mark location with pen and tie stopper knot at location.
Remove outhaul from kite and tie a duplicate. Cow hitch both outhauls to frame.
Both inhauls and uphauls are one long piece of bridle line. Cut 8' of line and double larkshead around spine below center T.
Pull knot tight against spine.
Tie larkshead around outhaul and adjust inhaul length to spec.
Now larkshead uphaul to adjustment leader Note Sharpie 'mark' at tow point factory setting.
Tie slider knot with excess line and melt end with lighter.
Tie keeper line between uphaul and inhaul about halfway down line ~10". Cut keeper from 100# bridle line 1" longer than distance between contact points. Use sheets bend knot, leave 1/4" tail and melt with lighter.
The finished bridle. Lather, rinse, repeat on other side.
The completely finished kite.
All kites need a bag. Standard Blue Moon issue flapped bag.
Before stuffing kite in bag, treat inside of LE fittings with silicon to ease assembly at field.
Ready for field testing...
Basic specs. SS is a full sized kite.