Gluing Down Form Outlines
Do it right Dad!
The Glass supplies arrive! The Mid Auk and Parr are on this roll.
Parr Forms
The Parr in the Attic
Started the Stem Shaping
First pile of shaving
Shear Line tryout.
Lets rout some strips (2 router setup for bead and cove)
One Pass two sides. Love it.
Enough for the Hull????
Slowly climbing the sides. The bow curve is quite neutral.
Stapleless construction.
Handy tool- the heat gun. I am gonna shoot the guy who left my planes that way!
Spare parts
One Side Done. Looks like a boat now.
Worst Bend is at the stern. Notice the discoloration from using the heat gun.
Starting up the other side.
What ever it takes.
Clamping the outer stem on. Nice to have these things done ahead.
New Japanese style pull saw
Bow outer stem
Holding down the last piece.
Shaping the outer stem
Glassing the Hull, 6oz overall and stem strips only.
The mixing table I am using large syringes as the pumps became inaccurate. 300 cc resin/ 150 hardener for the first coat.
Using this epoxy because of price point. Used West 105/207 on the Gilly. This is much thinner. For fill coats I pre-promote by mixing 25% hardener in the epoxy resin and let it sit for a few hours, this thickens it considerably.
Got to the deck finally, Stripped with rolling bevel. I'll stick with bead and cove, next time.
He wanted it just like another kayak we saw on the web, so here we go. drew it with battens on one side and flipped the cut out for the other side.
The deck pulled up as I cut out the infill. I pulled it back down with a screw at each form, amazingly it stayed closer to the form after each 3/16 strip was added, and was right in place at the end.
stretch masking tape over remaining hole, use a very sharp knife and cut out the hole. These were curves and I couldn't hold the oak strips in place by hand at all to measure.
Stick the cutout piece of tape on the strip, even if the strip isn't curved as much as the slot, sand to the tape edge on both sides, check, sand, check, sand, check, sand ... install
Pushing the strip in line with wedges. They are in at an angle to push sideways.
Walnut around the coaming cut. I ran the feature into the edge of the coaming recess.
Ran the feature lines into the rim of the cockpit cutout, I lika dat.
Red Oak infill, Pine separator
leveling the infill
One more piece...
OOOOO, WOW
Get it damp to see the contrast.
Bow
Stern
Getting mixing table ready.
Ready to put the resin.
Had to cut the glass to get it to conform to the cockpit tis no big deal.
Can see the wood through the glass with the flash.
My favorite epoxy tool. The refills are 1.25 for 3
Video: Rolling on the resin
Laying in strands of fiberglass around the cockpit to strengthen the radius. Pulled the glass back and layed the strands in then put the glass back over.
230ml resin/115 hardener for the first coat, 100 ml/50ml for second and third coat, pre-promoted to make it thicker.
Opening the Clam
The Deck
The inside of the hull.
Drew the hatches out on CADstd software, rear is 14 x8.5 with a 1.5 inch radius on the corners. This design does not have hatches, but he wanted some so in they go.
Used a 1/16 bit to drill a start point in the hatch line, then carefully cut out with the jigsaw.
Holes drilled out the deck for the bungee fittings.
Drilling out the holes for the magnets and the handle, the holes are 3/4 and I have a forsnter with the tip shaved off so that it does not go through the front.
The magnets are set flush and then covered with 3/4 oz glass and resin.
The Bungee attachments in, they are slightly small so I wrap with a layer of resin soaked glass. Strengthens the attachment points.
Trimmed the bungee attachments.
Trying it out (measuring for the bulk heads)
Handle holes
1" dowel with a 1/4" hole
1" x 1" rounded out the corner, hot glue it in place, it will support the coaming lip as I laminate it
Testing the layout. 6 strips 1/8" x1/8" of red oak.
The website said thin with 5% water, so i did. It split the bottle and blew the cap off! USE Acetone to thin it. unless it is already applied.
Coaming lip off to smooth. I use yellow glue so that i can remove it to work it.
Laminating the coaming lip. All the clamps I have.
The dirt 'round here is frozen. So I went and bought 2 bags of road salt. 22 lbs of weight on the hatch rims.
The SeeBee in the Parr
The complete hatch rim (not trimmed)
The lighter color areas are 406 filler. It is not obvious in the kayak. The magnets are 3/4 x 1/8 rare earth, and are set in about 6 layers of cloth. I use a flat, wide gasket material so I do not make the gasket groove as some others do. I have to account for the gap and use shims under the hatch to set it in to the deck about .0050 when making the lip. 200ml/100ml + per hatch
gluing the lip in place with epoxy. The small strips on the sheer line are hot glued to whichever section is narrower. (usually the Hull) to help with alignment. The kids had a great time knocking them off with a rubber hammer.
Taping up the interior seam. 6oz tape on the interior, cut cloth strips outside. The tape wets out differently.
Coaming lip
50ml/25ml for each side to lay the 2"cloth strips, 20ml/10ml pre-promoted to do fill coats. X2
Trying the tape method on either side of the join line. Lay tape about 1 inch away from the joint line. Run the glass over the tape, cut the glass while soft along the tape line. Hope it reduces the sanding involved.
Used a Reciprocating saw *Yikes * to cut the coaming down to height. Layered some 3/4 oz glass a guy gave me on top. Now to clear out the blue stuff.
Buttons for lifting hatches (Lee Valley) drill an 1 1/4 hole and then use epoxy and thickener to glue them in to place. They do not lock the hatch down the magnets don't need any help. They pop up to give you a place to lift out the hatch.
