Three headliner bows are removed.
The hole is cut small so enough material remains to trim the roof opening.
Not much use for this now!
The center raised rib on the roof is interrupted where the hole will be cut.
The aluminum canvas retainer strips help to visualize the work area.
The aluminum strips taper inward at the rear to make room for the poptop hinges.
Typical 1987 clearcoat. Duct tape helps to guide the jigsaw for hole cutting.
A jigsaw with metal cutting blade does the trick. No turning back now!
I cut the hole at the inside edge of the flat area in the interrupted center rib
Front and rear edges have the same width flat section at the edge of the ribs.
Hole is intentionally cut small. Much easier to cut more off than to add metal!
Backing plates for the poptop hinge are made from 1/8" flat steel.
Holes for the M8 bolts are drilled and tapped so we don't have to use nuts.
We measured a factory camper to locate the hinges correctly.
Installing hinges is a two-man job.
Temporary attachment of the poptop legs. The roof is not stiff enough for this.
The mounting point was measured on a factory Westfalia camper.
Reinforcing brackets made from aluminum angle, bent to match roof contour.
The leg base sits on rubber washers. This is plenty stiff for the poptop.
We measured a factory camper to locate the holes for the luggage rack brackets.
It takes long arms to reach above the headliner to put the nuts on these bolts.
The rear edge of the luggage rack gets double-thick rubber washers.
The front luggage rack brackets should not have rubber washers like this.
Ready for luggage rack installation.
The amount of metal to the rear of the latch base will be a problem later.
Ready for canvas and rubber seals.
End of one day's work. It's very loud to drive with no rubber seals.
Legs removed for canvas installation. There's not much room to work.
Canvas on early tops is stapled through plastic strips to the plywood edge.
The lower edge is attached from the inside using the aluminum strips.
Working along the rear edge is very cramped.
Inside view of the canvas. The curved roof is too high for the full Westy bed.
Factory campers mount the legs on a ledge that is lower than the actual roof.
The canvas was way too tight. We moved the upper hinge 3/4" lower on legs.
The base of the legs had to be moved forward to compensate.
We covered the metal edges of the hole with tape to prevent headliner tears.
The hole is trimmed with luggage rack edge seal.
One man stretches the headliner while the other installs the trim.
We tapped all around with a rubber hammer to fully seat the trim. It fits tight.
The rubber-coated tabs on the leg hinges are bent over 90 degrees.
Ready for kitchen install. The wood is holding the foam pad while glue dries.
Sadly, the seam rust will have to wait until later.
We made a template from a Westfalia to locate the fridge vent.
Clear tape over the cut area makes the template last through the cut.
Drill the screw holes before hole cutting while the panel is still stiff.
Cut the hole with a jigsaw.
Ready for the fridge.
The oval hole is for the gas lines. Look at that rust!
All propane tanks are not the same. Use the actual tank to locate the holes.
It's a good idea to look below before drilling into something important.
Modified Westy kitchen. Slot allows removal with gas lines in place.
Kitchen ready for installation. The fridge is larger than the cabinet.
We used a factory Westy wall panel as a template for the fridge hole.
$40 floating wood floor from Home Depot.
Full width seat has since been replaced with a Westy seat and storage cabinet
Relays in place under driver's seat for second battery.
