PLEASE PUSH F11!!!
We arrived in Yosemite on Monday afternoon (June 2, 2008) after a great visit with Francimar and John and the kids the weekend before. We stayed near the South Entrance to the park and thought we only had time on Monday to visit the Giant Sequoia grove near there called Mariposa Grove.
When many of us think Sequoia, we think of the iconic picture of this tree. Actually not -- this is the "Other" Tunnel Tree, called the "California Tree." The more famous was the Wawoma Tunnel Tree which fell in 1969 (pictures later). That tree was in the portion of the grove closed during the winter--so in 1895, this tree was carved out so winter visitors could drive through it.
We asked our model in the red shirt to pose for context. Carving out a tree like this damages it severely and decreases its longevity. The National Park Service would not allow it today. However, in the 19th century, it helped to make the park popular -- and get public funding for more national parks. The good news is that trees do all of their growing just beneath the bark -- so this tree continues to grow and add to its volume. The bad news is that the "dead" wood in the center supports the tree -- and this one won't last as long as others with their insides intact.
Lots of these trees are named after famous bipeds, many of which have fallen (both trees and their namesakes such as Mark Twain). The first of the “named trees” visitors encounter are the Bachelor (right) and Three Graces. Sequoia roots will fuse with that of adjacent trees and they will share the resources of the soil and moisture. It's good to share but ...
...the bad news is that the roots aren't so hot. Sequoia roots expand to about 150 feet in diameter. Unfortunately, because moisture in this dry place is typically only in the topsoil, roots are very shallow -- only about 3-6 feet deep. Therefore, they are as unstable as a nail standing on its head. When winds, earthquakes, and heavy snows occur, they may topple as this one did about 300 years ago. Sequoia have a lot of tannins in them which make them resist fire and insects -- and decay once they topple.
Here's a picture of the largest tree in the grove (but only about the 25th largest tree in the world). It's called Grizzly Giant.
A closeup of Grizzly Giant base. Sequoia gain their maximum height (about 250-300 feet) in their first 800 years but can grow for 3000 years, adding (like humans after puberty) to their girth each year. This tree is thought to be 1900-2400 years old. Under good growing conditions, A Sequoia will gain a foot in girth every hundred years.
The first branch of the Grizzly Giant Sequoia is supposedly larger than the trunk of any tree in Yosemite other than the Sequoias.
Yosemite has three Sequoia groves but this one is by far the largest and most accessible. Hiking trails and a tree guide make this a pleasant experience. perhaps the most famous of all is the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. Mariposa has at least 200 trees 10 feet or more in diameter. We also found mule deer to be quite common, especially at dusk. We walked many miles through here and stayed until a moonless darkness fell.
Here's perhaps the most famous giant Sequoia -- the Wawona Tunnel Tree. The original fire damage was made into a tunnel in 1881, increasing the lean the tree was already showing. Its circumference at the bottom was nearly 90 feet.
Here's a picture of the fallen today -- the tree fell in 1969 with about two tons of snow on its crown.
Here's what's left of the 2300 year old tree. Sequoia bark is about 74% tannins which will keep this trunk from decaying for centuries. Note how the tree broke up when it toppled. It has a lot to do with why these trees are still here -- stay tuned.
OK -- here is the last named tree we'll show here. Can you guess what it's called? (Answer on next page). This tree's base has been hollowed out large enough for a car to drive through. The culprit is fire--the grove has suffered through 14 major fires since 450 AD. But fires (as we shall see) are friends of the Sequoia and no fire has ever killed a mature Sequoia -- so resistant is their bark.
Did you correctly guess that the previous tree was the Clothespin Tree? We ended our hike here at the Wawona Point -- a lookout 6800 feet above sea level. (The park rises from East to West and this is one of the lower rims). Early evening was descending, giving the landscape a smoky feeling.
Now for a couple more Sequoia facts: they start with cones such as these which can succeed only with the help of a forest fire! For years, rangers controlled forest fires here until they understood the regeneration process better. Today they conduct "controlled burns" to help mother nature along.
Here's our last Sequoia picture -- a fallen trunk. Notice that it shatters, making its lumber nearly useless. For this reason, loggers picked other species to harvest -- and left us and our grandchildren with these 2000+ year old giants.
Tuesday morning we ventured to Yosemite Valley -- an incredible place where granite monoliths line the Merced River valley. After emerging from a tunnel, tourists are presented with the "Gates of Yosemite" view including El Capitan on the left, Half Dome at the center in the distance, and Bridalveil Falls at center. Up to ten different glaciers scooped out this valley in a U shape; the last finishing up 15,000-20,000 years ago.
Here's El Capitan -- a solid piece of granite (monolith) half a billion years in the making (and like the rest of the valley, still under construction). It rises 3000 feet from the valley floor -- more than a half mile up, rising to 7600 feet above sea level. The Rock of Gibraltar, a limestone monolith, is not even half as high. With a lot of work, you can walk up the backside. With even more, you can rock climb the front. It is THE rock climbing Holy Grail even after it was first conquered in 47 days in 1958.
At center is BridalVeil Falls (not a very imaginative name since it's used in many states where falls resemble bridal veils, including part of Niagara Falls.) Note that above the falls is a river valley. This stream fed the Merced River below. When the glaciers lowered the Merced Valley, they were kinder to the BridalVeil creek. Therefore the water had nowhere to go but straight down -- 620 feet.
Here's another view of BridalVeil Falls. The valley above it is called a "hanging valley" since the Glacier left it hanging above the river it feeds. In the spring, fed by snow melt, Yosemite valley has more magnificent waterfalls than just about anywhere else in the world, including 2 of the 8 longest waterfalls in the world.
Here's a view of our bride in front of BridalVeil Falls. The falls are fed by a lake 10 miles to the south. To the left of the falls are formations called Cathedral Rocks. To the right is Leaning Tower.
On the right of the tunnel view is this area which looks like the glacier left unfinished. Here's a couple views.
This granite is part of a continuous geological formation called the Sierra Nevadas that line about 250 miles of the eastern edge of California. When continental plates collided about 200 million years ago, some hot magma rose to the surface and created volcanoes in the Cascades. More to the interior, the magma cooled into granite before the colliding plates pushed it to the surface here.
After the dramatic tunnel entrance, the road leads through the Merced river valley with meadows leading almost flat to the rising granite monoliths on each side.
The next few photos are of the Yosemite Falls -- 3 separate falls that together make up the 6th or 7th longest known waterfall in the world at 2425 feet (and the longest in North America) It has water most of the year but not in a dry fall.
The upper falls at 1430' are the longest. The Middle Cascades, are 625' and the lower is 320'. The base is a short hike from the bus stop and is highly populated during the summer months. (We were lucky and found the crowds to be minor during the first week of June.)
These falls are the highest known in North America (but Niagara cranks out a much larger volume of water).
This photo shows the three levels of the Yosemite Falls across a typical Yosemite meadow: mountains without foothills.
Here's Jane with the Yosemite Falls in the background.
This photo was taken at the base of the Yosemite Falls where visitors congregate. In the winter, a snow cone forms here, sometimes 300' high and covering 4 acres -- before vanishing in April.
We ended our Tuesday hikes with 4.4 mile loop up the Tenya Canyon, carved by the Tenya creek. On one side we have Mount Watkins...
And on the other we have Ahwiyah Point (left) and the famous Half Dome (but not looking like much of a dome from this angle as we are looking at the "flat" side).
The Tenya Creek forms Mirror Lake at its base. We had to look hard to find this reflection. Before 1971, this lake was continually dredged to provide sand to coat the icy winter roads. This gave the lake a much larger unsilted area to reflect its tall granite neighbors. We'll see a higher view in a few more pictures.
This was the same Yosemite Valley we saw the day before -- but by looking down from the south rim. Several great views can be had (some take a modest amount of hiking) from the Glacier Dome Road which meanders high above the Yosemite Valley. Our first stop was Washburn point where we stitched together this panorama. At center is the iconic Half Dome. About halfway to the right, is Liberty Cap at nearly 7100'. During the last ice age, the glacier rose over 1000' feet above Liberty Cap! This was a serious piece of snow that carved these U-shaped valleys. The rounded tops in the middle of the picture are typically glacier carved. The high pointed peaks in the distance were too tall for the glaciers to sculpt and so they retained their points (however, the glaciers carved their sides up considerably. At middle left is ..
...the Tenaya canyon formed by the creek of the same name with the help of several glaciers and a whole lot of time. We had hiked the sides of this the day before.
Here's another view from Glacier point -- stitched together with the "Grand Staircase" of two waterfalls at center. The next day we would hike up the sides of these.
Here's the same picture with the mountains wearing name tags for a geological cocktail party. To see what's what, cut and paste this link into another browser window and click a few times to get actual size: http://www.dickschmitt.com/travels/usa/california/yosemite/2008_06_04_Ca_Yosemite_Glacier_point_panorama_load_text.JPG -- then join the party but make sure you pour your drink over a lot of ice.
We're now back on the rim. At center is Half Dome; we are looking at the sheer side -- Nirvana for serious rock climbers who can choose from 12 trails (ropes?) to take them up the vertical Northwest side first conquered in 1957.
This photo shows why this area is nicknamed the "Giant Staircase": Below is the 317' drop (officially only 240') of the Vernal Falls into the Merced river; above is the 594' Nevada Falls of the same river. A few days later, we drove the edge of the Merced as it grew steadily wider but much less forceful.
A close-up of the Vernal Falls. A paved hiking trail makes a walk up to the base of the falls accessible for most. To reach the top, however, requires walking the Mist Trail which sprays water on hikers as they climb the granite steps of the granite staircase. We'll see our pictures from there in a few minutes.
The upper falls of the Merced River is called Nevada falls. To get to it requires a steep hike up scenic switchbacks -- and the better part of an afternoon.
This next set of pictures were taken at Glacier Point looking across from the southern rim of Yosemite Valley. Here's Half Dome at 8,842 feet. Obviously since its top is rounded, it was not as tall as the many glaciers that smoothed this single piece of granite.
At top center right is Mount Star King at 9,092' -- as the Sierra Nevadas move from west to east, they typically get higher. The plate shifted backward towards the San Andreas fault several million years ago, raising the east end upwards. The tallest mountain in the contiguous 48 states is Mount Whitney at the eastern edge of the Sierras -- at 14,500 '.
A view of Tenaya Canyon from Glacier Peak. The two domes at upper left are North Dome and Baker Dome. At about 7500 feet, their tops were rounded by a glacier that rose another 1000 feet and expanded the U-shaped Tenaya Canyon now tree lined below. Think of the Tenaya Creek cutting a V-shaped gouge over the eons -- and then a set of Glaciers (maybe 10!) turning that V into a wide U.
Here's the three-tier 2,425' Yosemite Falls as seen from Glacier Point. It is fed entirely by snow melt from a nearly 50 square mile area and is seen at about peak flow here in early June. This is the highest waterfall in North America -- yet the valley below is nearly flat. Why?
Here's another view of the snaking Merced River as seen from Glacier Point. When the last glacier receded about 14,000 years ago, it left a 5 mile long lake behind a dam of rock near BridalVeil Falls. This lake gradually filled in with rock and sediment, forming a moraine. In 1878, the dam was dynamited to drain what was then pretty much a mosquito-infested swamp. The results are this fairly flat valley floor which makes these granite sides accessible even to the mobility impaired.
Let's jump (non-literally) back to the valley floor to show what you just saw from the rim: This sandbar is in the Merced River near the Sentinel Meadows. A bridge allows easy viewing and access to the area while allowing the Riparian flora and fauna to thrive.
Back on the rim at Glacier Point, a telescope is provided to look for rock climbers on the face of Half Dome. (If you don't know where to look, you probably won't see them). Here's Jane looking at the mountain...
...and Half Dome looking back on Jane...
...and this non-glaciated fossil (even though the dome is fairly rounded and he looks a little peaked.)
At left middle: the 2024' three-tiered Yosemite Falls; at right: the Royal Arches. A large cloud darkened the middle view. The flat valley stretches below. The next picture shows...
...This view from the Yosemite Valley floor looking north showing the "Royal Arches." These niches were created by ice and wind erosion of the granite wall. At top is North Dome at 7,542' above sea level and 3,571' above the valley.
Here's where we ended up on Sentinel Dome. The view is great in every direction. This one has Yosemite Falls at Center and Half Dome on the left.
This was an easy hike. We saw two couples carrying their yuppie papooses. From the trail head, it's only a 400' total climb with some reasonably gentle ups and downs -- until the very peak.
Here's Fearless Jane on the trail. The dome, as you can see, has been nicely rounded by the glaciers that rose above it.
Typically these glaciers leave behind rocks that they've dragged down from on high and left in embarrassing -- and occasionally gravity-defying -- positions.
This is not a piece of the old glacier that receded 14,000 years ago (although there are a few newer ones in the park -- the largest at 65 acres). This area had near-record snowfalls and some of it was left. Temperature up here was in the 60s and we had to take off a layer or two of clothing.
The hike rewards with views of Yosemite Falls...
...and these tall mountains -- too tall to have their caps rounded by the glaciers.
At the peak is this etched disc with the pictures and names of the mountains at its edge to allow for quick identification of sites around this 360-degree view.
...for instance, if you really can't find Half Dome...
...look up!
El Capitan, of course.
The trail itself reminds you that spring comes late in the Sierra Nevadas. We often encountered snow...
...but usually the trail was easily passable and well-maintained with gentle rises through the pines.
The trail is only 2.2 miles round trip. After about a half-mile of woods, the trail opens up and lets hikers find their own path over the glaciated rock...
Soon we encountered the fissures which were once the size of a knife blade but which time, wind, and water were carving into deep gorges.
The fissures cut wide Vs hundreds of feet into the solid granite (which itself extends downward over a mile).
Here's a collage showing how close hikers can get to the granite. Unless you're a rock climber, you probably won't get much closer while at Yosemite.
This fissure is a bit more smoothed out by the sandpaper of time and wind.
There are 5 large fissures -- but come back in a few hundred thousand years and this crack will probably be number 6.
This crack is about the width of a hiker and you could probably shimmy down it to the fissure floor. Perhaps a helicopter might take you up -- but your cellphone is not likely to work.
This outreach with a minimal railing is Taft Point.
The point is marked by this marker to affirm that you are 7503 feet above sea level (but doesn't mention that you are over a half mile above the valley). The windy calm is broken by voices on cell phones as this peak gets coverage missing from the valley. If Moses went back to Mount Sinai, would we be living by the Ten Text Messages?
Typical View from Taft Point: El Capitan at center...
...and Yosemite Falls
The granite monolith at center is called the Three Brothers -- a set of steadily rising gabled peaks. The tallest is Eagles Peak -- not too imaginative name as dozens of other California mountains carry that name.
Here's the view of our hike from Glacier Point on the South Rim. You may have trouble seeing Dick and Jane here but we're climbing on the right side of the lower Vernal Falls and then up the left side of the Nevada Falls. This picture shows why this part of the Merced River is called the "Grand Staircase."
From the trail head, we followed the Merced River on an easy ascending hike over an asphalt path. With the snow melt, this is a frothy creek.
While the trail climbs moderately, it is still handicap-accessible; and we did see wheelchairs and a walker on the trail.
Along this part of the trail, Mount Broderick, the smaller of the two domes on the trail looms into view.
This is probably the Illilouette Falls -- one (typical of many at Yosemite) only seen in the spring. It disappears when the snow melt runs out.
Another view of the Illilouette Falls as seen from the trail leading to the base of the Vernal Falls.
Some gratuitous creek rapids shots.
The easy trail (about 0.4 mile) stops here at the base of the Vernal Falls . Most tourists stop here -- not to get off the track, but we saw a man resting his Segway here. But true hikers (like the blond in green with her hiking pole at bottom right) proceed fearlessly beyond and upward.
A bit of review based on this shot of the Vernal Falls taken the day before from the South Rim. A paved hiking trail walks up to the base of the falls shown at center. To reach the top, however, requires walking the Mist Trail which sprays water on hikers as they climb the granite steps on the right side of Vernal Falls. Raincoats and umbrellas safely stowed back in our hotel room, we are about to head up.
The top of the Vernal Falls is accessed through the steeply rising (600 feet in 0.8 mile) Mist Trail.
If you slip, the Merced River eats you alive -- but washes its food first.
Near the top the trees clear out somewhat.
The Vernal Falls; note that even with the spring fury of the snow melt, they occupy only a small part of their vertical ledge. Perhaps these were much larger falls in earlier eons -- or the glaciers helped out a lot.
The wind blows the water onto the hikers, giving the Mist Trail its name. In fact, you are pretty well soaked by the time you claw your way to the top. On a sunny day with modern hiking clothes, you dry out fast.
Another stitched view of the Vernal Falls at right in front of Mount Broderick.
Just above the falls, the trail continues, assisted by a little railing work provided by the Park Service. It's sorely needed unless you need more sores or broken bones.
The trail then pauses at the top of the falls; at right is the Emerald Pool (which really is green if you get away from it, but here it's the Foamy Pool). Many stop here to dry out in the sun. We found about 20 people here in a space of about 50 square yards -- not really crowded at all for the first full week of June 2008.
Another view of Mount Broderick on the path to our next target, the Nevada Falls.
From the top of Vernal Falls, we see the Merced River cut through to the Yosemite Valley. In the background is the South Rim where we were the day before on the Glacier Rim Trail.
Anyone got a barrel?
Above the Vernal Falls, we see the pool really is Emerald -- and fast moving as the water prepares to rush over the sheer granite drop.
Left: Mount Broderick (with perhaps a bit of Half Dome peeking over it); Right: Liberty Cap. Half Dome is the tallest but the camera angle deceives the eye. Liberty Cap (at right) supposedly was so named due to its resemblance to the Liberty Bell (you be the judge; does this ring true?)
Here's a bit of the Merced River rushing between the Nevada Falls down to the Vernal Falls.
The upper falls is called the Nevada Falls. Again, it's a fairly small fall compared to the masses of granite around it, although it has clearly carved a deeper niche below itself.
Our fearless hiker taking a break for the paparazzo. Glaciers have left these rocks here to be broken down further by time, water, and wind.
The granite cracking continues. A few million years more and we'll have gravel.
The Nevada Falls is quite impressive. We had a dry day and the wind blew little of its mist upon us, thankfully.
Scrambling up the slope. We passed about 20 people on the trail -- again not very crowded.
Yosemite is at peak wildflower season in July so we were a bit early; however, we did get occasional color.
The John Muir Trail starts near here and goes 215 miles to Mount Whitney (which rises to the highest peak in the 48 contiguous states at 14,500 feet). We decided to hike it on another day (although we would later come down using a bit of it).
By coincidence, we did our longest hike on World Environmental Day -- so we couldn't pass up this opportunity to photograph the solar powered latrine below Liberty Cap. Al Gore, there's hope!
A typical trail view of the steep granite sides of Liberty Cap.
After many a stony switchback, we arrived at the top of Nevada Falls -- after nearly 2000 feet of climbing over 3 miles. This part has been obviously graded by the glaciers. The Merced River at upper left rushes to its falls.
Just above the falls, it forms this tranquil-looking (but dangerously currented) pool.
The top of the Nevada Falls is quite spectacular and easily accessible on either side as well as a bridge.
Lots of water and few people -- just the way we like it. All in all, a beautiful day (as were all 5 of our days at Yosemite.)
The opposite side of Nevada Falls has a railinged viewer platform.
After a bit of a rest, we proceeded down the beginning of the John Muir trail. This, we thought, would let us avoid the steep, wet granite steps of the Mist trail by Vernal Falls. However, the water and wet granite found us soon enough on the Muir Trail. At times we had to walk behind tiny waterfalls as the snow melt dripped off the mountain.
The Muir Trail provides even more spectacular views, unhindered by trees. At left, Half Dome rises above Mount Broderick; Liberty Cap is at right. Many geologist wonder why the Nevada Falls don't flow into the steep valley between Liberty and Broderick at the center of this picture.
Liberty Cap and the Nevada Falls
Eventually the trail returns to the pavement.
By now, we are back on the paved trail near the trail head accessible to all. Note the glaciated rocks ahead. By this time of day (about 6:30 PM), the path was nearly empty although we had still almost two more hours of daylight.
That's it -- you've made it to the last picture. Hopefully your vision has not deteriorated by staring at the computer screen for so long.