The entrance to the town of Sirmione (and the whole peninsula) is through that black hole at left -- which was controlled in medieval times by raising the drawbridge.
Thanks to my friends down the road at NASA who took this shot of Lake Garda, the largest of Italy's incredibly beautiful lakes. (They have a bigger travel budget than I do, but thankfully put all of their shots in the public domain.) The tiny penninsula jutting out at the bottom is Sirmione.
This position gave it a natural defense augmented by the 13th century Rocca Scaligeri above -- the fort of the Scaliger family of nearby Verona.
It'd be hard to take this fort because not only did it protect a narrow strip of land, but it housed a fleet.
When the Roman Empire fell, most cities fell into chaos while varying factions tried to seize control. The Scaligeri finally did so in nearby Verona -- and used that as a base to dominate the region. Note that the drawbridge could be raised to deny access to the fort even if the harbor was penetrated by the enemy.
Note the lion on this tower...
...obviously left over from the days of Venetian control as it is the Winged Lion of Saint Mark, symbol of Venice.
The Venetians controlled the city for nearly 400 years, using the towns in this region as a buffer from their enemy city-states to the west. Note the "swallow tail" shaped mandrels -- those peaks on the walls. We'll talk about them in a minute.
How did this all get started? A group of Milanese merchants protested the marriage and keeping of concubines by the clergy. They became known as Patarini and had a major settlement here. The Del Scalla family of Verona came here to wipe them out and brought 2000 of them to the stake in 1276. The Del Scalla stayed and started the fort the next year to allow them to control the southern part of Italy's largest lake. Why go after the Patarini? They allied themselves with the Pope (who, you would think, could tell priests to not marry). The Della Scallas were allied with the Emperor in yet another incident in the ongoing "G" wars between the Guelphs and Ghibellines that rocked northern Italy during the 12th and 13th centuries.
The Scaligeri built the castle in two phases and the Venetians fortified the wooden port with stone walls and turrets after they took over in the early 15th century.
There are many internal drawbridges allowing various parts of the castle to be defended even if the enemy penetrated the exterior walls.
7 centuries of soldering: The donjon or watchtower was built during the first phase starting in 1277. Its last military use seems to be during WWI when it held an anti-aircraft siren -- and sheltered some retreating French troops fleeing the Battle of Caporetto (which you recall, of course, from reading Hemingway's Farewell to Arms.)
Here's a view of how thick the walls were as seen by this portal for crossbows which were invented during this castle's heyday.
More drawbridges to secure portions of the fort. The many drawbridges are marked #1 on the map which follows. To enter from the south (where any attack by land must come) required crossing two consecutive drawbridges.
Here's the plan of the fortress. The lake is to the left (North). The huge "darsena" or protected harbor (#9) was fortified by the Venetians after they subdued Sirmione in 1405.
This is the donjon or keep (#5 on the map). This would be the most fortified area of a medieval castle, often containing living spaces as it would be the last to fall during a siege.
The courtyard as seen from the tower. The weather was unseasonably hot even for July so most folks congregated in the shade. The courtyard was constructed during the first phase.
The swallow-tailed structures in the crenelations are called merlons. The swallow-tail shape is symbolic of a political faction called the Ghibellines who preferred the temporal power of the emperor over that of the pope (whose backers were called Guelphs). This rivalry tore northern Italy apart for two centuries.
More Ghibelline swallow-tail crenelations! The railings were probably added by 20th century lawyers, the new master architects!
This is a rare surviving example of a fortified medieval port the Italians call a "darsena." The Venetians fleet controlled the lake.
The 15th century harbor walls contain two angular towers.
The Veronese Scaligari protected their fleet with wooden fortifications. When the Venetians came in 1405, they replaced the wood with stone.
Where the fort meets the protected harbor.
From high up in Rocca Scaligeri, the quaint town emerges below.
Here's a view of the entrance to the castle. The street was once the first drawbridge.
Town view from the tower.
Sirmione's most famous poet is the most famous Roman lyric poet--Catullus. However, expatriate American(?) Ezra Pound would love to come here and claimed in three weeks he was a new man.
Typical street in Sirmione closed to all cars except residents (of which there seemed to be a lot).
Here's a barbarian at the gates of what Sirmiones call the Grotto of Catullus. Catullus, Rome's greatest lyric poet, did have a home on this point, but probably not the lavish hacienda behind this gate.
Unfortunately, we were not able to go in as the union had a meeting that day. Great idea for an area that lives on tourism to thumb its nose in late July at its livelihood. This is not as bad as the time the chefs of France went on strike and blocked my access to Mount St. Michele -- but it comes close.
At least we found the early 15th century church of Santa Maria Maggiore open.
Santa Maria Maggiore has many 15th century frescoes in various states of disrepair. Here's one of the better ones.
A charming window across from the entrance portico of the church of Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore has a single nave.
However, it has many side altars, typically displaying a large oil painting behind a marble-faced tabernacle which sits on an altar made of many contrasting marbles.
The wood confessional failed to tempt us. Note the partial frescoes.
How's them marbles?
They must have run out of lambs to put on the marble door of this tabernacle.
Angels on top and bottom here.
Note the pastel bricks above the organ pipes.
Santa Maria Maggiore's ceiling is unusual -- made from pastel bricks.
The exterior of the church
Outside the church, narrow passageways lead back to town or to a scenic walk along the east shore of the peninsula called paseggiata panoramica.
Catholic couples must publish notice before getting married. These are called banns. In the States, this is typically done in the church bulletin; here they hang it outside the church.
Sirmione was well thought out for tourists. A huge parking lot leads into a city walled off from cars (unless you live there or are staying in a hotel). This makes the whole place work well (assuming personal mobility is not an issue). Just before the entrance to the scenic old town is this sign.
The sign allows you to get information on housing. The green lights show where there are vacancies. Serendipitous tourists such as ourselves appreciate this.
Maria Callas (Μαρία Κάλλας) --arguably the greatest opera singer of the 20th century -- lived here -- between the congested old town of Sirmione and the Grotto of Catullus at the far northern end of the narrow peninsula. Trivia Question: where was this Italian star of Greek descent born? If you took Manhattan, you're right.
